Hey everyone.....need your help!

New to owning A car let alone a nice one so I need some neewbie love!!!!

I've read several posts saying I need to wash it every couple of days (because it's black) and then wax every two months or so, but I'm a complete idiot at this stuff and really need it broken down to me in terms of products (which to use for a black car) and when to use them (how often).

I'm used to the automatic car washes, and it seems that if I really want to bring out the glory of the car, that's a definite NO NO! I recently got my car detailed and it looked FANTASTIC!!!!! The next day, no lie, like 12 models were all over the ride I just don't now how to maintain it and no one wants to pay $$$$ every other week to bring back the shine.

I've never waxed, glazed, sealed, etc. anything so if there are vids out there that would be great. Again, im an idiot when it comes to this stuff, but seeing some of you guys pics out there.....I know detailing and upkeep goes along way. I have the time to put in, just want to do it the right way.

Calling all gurus!!!!! Break it down one time for ya boy!!!!

 

What I do with my black car...

-Have my car fully detailed twice a year
-Wash every week (use car soap, 2-3 genuine lambswool mitts(one for upper part of the car, one for lower part of the car and I have an old one I use on my rims), grit guard in the buckets(1 with soap,1 with water) and 2 waffleweave towels to blot dry). I also have this dispenser that sprays soap on the car - it was cheap at Pepboys for like 10 bucks but it really doesn't compare to a foam gun, which I recently purchased. Also, get some tire dressing - I use blackfire. I don't know about the others since I haven't used. I also have a leafblower to get the water out of all the small cracks/crevices.

-During the week since it gets dirty, I use a quick detailer (poorboys) and some microfiber towels. Also, since it is black, it gets dusty DAILY(hrs after a car wash as well!). I use a california car duster. Now, those will leave spiderweb marks. I just learned to live with them since I will get them anyway. Also, it's not as bad as some would think. If you truly want to be careful with your paint, I would use a quick detailer everyday with mf towels. I just find it to tiring and obsessive to do it every day on my car. I also found out that I go through a lot of mf's since it gets dirty right away from all the dust so I would have to wash them everyday. Just not practical from my pov. A car duster works fine for me and is a lot faster. I use the quick detailer on bird poop, random stains that duster won't wipe away.

Now with wax/sealant, there is a difference. Sealants lasts longer(4 to 6 months) than carnuaba wax. Some prefer sealant, some prefer wax. Forget what the differences are. How long your wax/sealant depends on numerous factors such as exposure to sun, how often you wash your car, etc...Since my car is parked in a garage during week at work and during the weekend, it is in shade, I found my sealant lasts up to 6 months. Obviously, if your car is in the sun 24/7, it will not last that long. I have a fellow member detail my car and he applies 3 layers of zaino(sealant) and a carnuaba wax. All I can say is wow.

With all this, my car looks shiny and get lots of compliments. I am still a newbie and this is what I have learned so far.

You can find all these products at detailedimage -10% off as well with code -10offg35

 

Great post by Imulion3. That's all the basic info you need to know. You don't need to wash your car everyday, just when it get's decently dirty and you have the time. Also, you need to remove the old wax before you put new wax on.

When you wash the car, don't apply very much pressure. Use very little or none, just let it glide across the car but still with a SMALL amount of pressure to clean it. Also, get some Aerospace 303, which can be found at any local auto store, and use that to restore your dash to it's shine, Vaccum the interior every once and a while, and also apply the Aerospace to your black rubber trim to prevent fading(be careful to apply only to trim, idk what it does if it touches the paint but just try and avoid it.) Also, look into some Lexol or Zanio for your seats so you won't have any cracks or rips when you sell it.

 

Also, if you ever get your car detailed, make sure you research your detailer. Not all detailers are created equal. Check out their work (pics) and see if they have referrals. If they are good at what they do, they will usually have some. Be on the lookout for buffer trails/holograms if you do get your car detailed. These are not noticeable in the shade, but all these defects come to light in the sun. Also, never get your car washed or detailed at the detailer. You would think they know how to take care of the car, but just stay away. I went in for an oil change once and they told me I would get a complimentary wash and I was like NO! They insisted since it was free and who doesn't want a free wash? Don't do it.

 

pmed i offer a package that uses a paint sealant then a staggered (24hr) wax job with crystal rock or DoDo Supernatural .

 

lmulion03, Darkstar752 Thanks a TON!!!!

Your help is exactly what i needed. I was looking at some packages from, I think its pinnacle (wax starts with an "S"). They got some kits for under $200 that I think will give me everything I need and last me a while. Especially thanks for the interior suggestions. Definitely want to keep in good condition for resale. I got an '04, but it only has 30K miles on it. I'll post some pics after the holiday once I've applied my new knowledge. Thinking about getting a PC. Again, Thanks a bunch!!!

 

Here is how I care for my black G

I mix twice the recommended dose of car shampoo in a five gallon bucket. Then I rinse the wheels, tires, and fenderwells thoroughly. I use a spoke brush and contour tire brush to clean the rims and tires. Then I wash the whole thing with a soft wash brush or mitt. Rinse thoroughly. Repeat for the other three tires.

Next, I empty the wash bucket and refill it again with fresh water and soap. I also fill a second bucket with clean water and a grit guard. I put two mitts in the soapy bucket and let them soak. Finally, I will fill my foam gun with soap and water.

After rinsing the car thoroughly, I will apply a bug/tar remover to any areas with excessive bug guts, bird droppings, or tar.

Next, I will blast the entire car with the foam gun. I will use a very soft wash brush to clean the very bottom parts of the car (the first 2-3 inches all the way around). Then I use one mitt to wash one panel. I hold the mitt in one hand, and hold the foam gun in the other. As I pass the mitt over the panel, I hold it at a slight angle so that I can constantly shoot foam in between the mitt and the car for extra lubrication. I use short strokes, trying to avoid any long swipes, and turn the mitt frequently.

After washing each panel, I will place the wash mitt in the bucket of clean water and let it soak to release the dirt. While it's soaking, I will take the second mitt out of the soap bucket and do the next panel of the car. I will rotate the mitts like this until the car is done.

When I'm done washing and have rinsed all of the soap off of the car, I will spray the tires and fender wells with Armor All tire foam. Don't be stingy when spraying the fender wells. I'll usually use 3/4 or a whole can of tire foam just to do the car once.

Next comes the clay. I normally won't dry the car yet. I use Mother's clay kit. It's cheap and works great unless you're dealing with some severely caked on tar. All of the paint, windows, and rims get hit with clay (in that order). Then I wash the car all over again and dry using waffle-weave microfiber towels. (meguiars water magnet, or cobra guzzlers work great for this). Before I empty my wash bucket though, I will take a microfiber towel, soak it in the rinse bucket, and use it to wipe down the inside of the doors, trunk lid, and inside the gas cap area.

Next, I will tape off any plastic trim, lights, grill, rubber door seams, windows, etc with painters tape (blue or green). I use a PC 7424 and a 6.5" orange LC light cutting pad along with Menzerna Intensive polish. First I will prep the pad with Pinnacle XMT polishing pad conditioner, or a Quick Detail spray. Then I apply an "X" on the pad and spread the polish just a bit with the machine off. I start the machine on speed 3-4 and work the product evenly over a small area, once it begins to break down, I turn the machine up to speed 5-6 and work the polish until it begins to haze over and turn almost translucent. I use the same process, except I use a 4" pad for areas like the bumpers, trunk face, and spoiler.

I usually break the car up into sections, and polish an entire section before I buff the product off. First I will do the hood, front fenders, and front bumper. Then I will do the roof, trunk lid and spoiler. Next I will do each side (front door, back door, and rear fender). Finally, I do the trunk face and rear bumper.

I buff the polish off with a Cobra edgeless polishing cloth. These work great, but they get caked with product quickly so I'll usually go through about 10 on one detail.

After buffing the polish off of each section, I will inspect my work under 500 watt halogen work lights. Over time you'll begin to be able to tell the difference between micromarring caused by your polishing process and defects that were there to begin with. I don't care about anything caused by teh polishing process just yet, I'm just looking for any major defects that I might have missed.

After that, I will repeat the entire polishing process using 6.5" white LC pads and Menzerna Nano Polish (PO106FF). Again, inspect your work under lights, and re-do any areas that have any remaining micro-marring, or stubborn defects.

Then I remove the tape, and clean any polish/tape residue off with either a 50/50 IPA wipedown or quick detailer.

Next I will apply Klasse Sealant Glaze to the entire car using a Microfiber applicator (DON'T use foam applicators with KSG) and buff off using a Quick detail spray and a plush Microfiber towel.

Next, I move to my wheels. They get Klass AIO, then two coats of DP Wheel Glaze by hand. This makes them super-easy to keep clean and prevents the need for any harsh acidic wheel cleaners.

Windows get washed with Stoner's Invisible glass, and Cobra Waffle-weave glass towels. Then, using a MF applicator, I apply rain-x to all windows and buff off using an cobra edgeless polishing cloth.

Tires get dressed with either Megs NXT insane shine spray, or Armor All tire gel. I will also use an interior vinyl/rubber protectant to wipe down teh plastic fender wells.

Lights, girll, and plastic trim get polished by hand with Mother's Plastic polish, and then get topped with Klass AIO.

Mother's "Back to Black" gets applied to all rubber and black plastic trim.

The mother's clay kit that I used earlier, comes with a sample bottle of Mother's Cleaner/wax. I use this to wax the door jambs.

Then I go to bed. The next morning I get up, clean the car with a QD spray, and then apply a second coat of Klasse SG. Hopefully I can keep the car garaged, or not drive it enough so that it stays mostly clean throughout the day. Before I go to bed again, i will QD the car, and apply a third coat of Klasse SG.

The next day, I will QD the car again, and apply two coats of Pinnacle Souveran paste wax using a foam applicator and buffing with cobra super plush deluxe towels.

This whole thing happens about twice per year. And whenever it gets dirty in between, I will use the above mentioned wash process, wipe down door jambs, clean windows, re-dress the tires and rubber trim.

Once per month or so, I will apply a fresh coat of souveran. And every two weeks, I will re-apply the wheel glaze.

 

If you are thinking about getting a PC, think about getting the Flex. Although it costs more than the PC, it has more power and gets the job done faster than a PC which will save you hrs on a full detail. Also, the Flex is not as dangerous as the rotary. Although the rotary is the best to remove all defects from your car, it can burn your paint and is only recommended for those who have experience using it - not for beginners. Think about the Flex. It would be a good investment.

 

If you really want to learn, go to autopia.org and READ, READ, READ. It is a detailing site with tons of info. The forums are priceless. I have a black coupe '04 with 100k miles on it. With the exception of the partially sandblasted front end due to so many miles, people cannot believe that the car is so old and has so many miles. I detail it a couple times a year. Follow the above recommendations and go the autopia. Learn as much as you can and then decide which recommendations you can and want to follow.

 

+1 on Autopia. I used to wash my old car with dish soap and an old rag. So, yeah. You will learn a lot by reading.

 

I like autopia alot too.

Also, on the Flex - Everything I've read suggests that it is a better machine than the PC 7424. However, there is currently only one size backing plate available. Therefore you can't use a pad smaller than 6.5". I have done details without smaller pads, but I wouldn't recommend it.

I'm looking into getting a Flex as well, but I'm still not giving up my PC.

 

I was in the same boat as you were when I bought my G a few months ago. I had never done anything beyond wash and wax to my previous cars and didn't know where to start with the G. Detailed Image is one of the site sponsors and George, one of the owners, has a thread called "Ask a Professional Detailer" it's one of the stickies at the top of the Care & Detailing main page. He is awesome at giving advice as far as what to use to achieve your desired results and what products work together. He can tell you what is best based on your budget, depth of scratches, time commitment, hand versus machine application, etc. If you order from them you get 10% off as well. I'm not taking anything away from what the other guys on here have said at all, but you will still need a place to buy everything and Detailed Image is great.

I have a Twilight Blue (dark blue) coupe and here is what I ended up with based on medium scratches on a dark car and George's advice:

1 - Wash with Chemical Guy's Citrus Wash & Clear
2 - First polish with Menzerna Intensive Polish w/ random orbital buffer
3 - Final polish with Menzerna PO106ff w/ random orbital
4 - Glaze with Chemical Guy's Extreme EZ-Creme Glaze w/ random orbital
5 - Seal with two coats of Chemical Guy's Jetseal 109 by hand
6 - Wax with two coats of Poorboy's Natty Red paste wax by hand

Though I am certainly no professional the car now looks great. You don't need to do both a sealant AND wax but I just did it for added protection and shine. I don't drive my car except in good weather so everything I put on there should last a while. Just know going in that you will have to devote quite a bit of time if you do all the steps. Good luck!

 

Just fyi, the more you wash your car, the better the chances you will swirl it up. With proper care and techniques, you can go weeks without having to wash your car. I know it's not a sun shot but you'll get the idea, trust me it's spotless and swirl free. In this pic below, I hadn't washed my car for almost 3 weeks.

 

keep in mind that this is a black car - everything shows ona black car. Other colors, like diamond graphite, tend to hide dirt better and therefore no need for a wash every week. Personal opinion. Isn't it funny that the more you wash your car, the more the car is prone to swirls as opposed to not giving a damn and being swirl free! My dads truck is a silver and hardly washes and takes care of it. Minimal to no swirls. When he does wash, it takes a while to notice that it is really dirty.

 

Sick ride NEVER GONE!!!!!

I've been getting it washed at least once a week at cleaners, and I recently got it detailed. It looked great after detailing! Unfortunately for me I have a black-on-black daily driver that's outside 24/7 in the Florida sun...lol! I'll be washing/ detailing my car as more therapy for me.....it'll get me away from my computer!