So i walk outside and almost cry..
25mm spacers front and back should make it sit very flush with the .9 inch drop on tein s-techs, correct? Is there a better option spacer wise... Going for the aggressive look.
I would go more for a TA look if you're powdercoating, try a thin line. If you do the entire lip it's going to be a big fat helping of silver which doesn't look that good IMO.
Well after meeting with the guy that will be doing my powder coating, he showed me examples including a glossy black he did on an escalade last week and I decided to go with the glossy black. At his shop he cant do the chrome inner lip anyway because the bend of the spokes. Where I live his shop is the only options so I guess im going solid black on black. He also recommended doing the brake calipers and discs while he has the wheels off. Not sure if he just wants the business or it would be a good idea. He said he has done some glossy black rims with the silver brakes behind them and looked good.
Anyone have any experience with brake powdercoating? (Pictures if so)
Anyone have any experience with brake powdercoating? (Pictures if so)
Powdercoat the calipers and nothing else, not even the wheels.
You can powder coat cast wheels with no adverse effects. However, powdercoating forged wheels will basically undo some of the forging. Forged wheels are made under thousands of pounds of pressure, heat, and are quenched to lock the basic elements of the alloy together. Putting the wheels under the required heat to cure the powdercoating is like annealing sheetmetal. The molecules 'unlock' and are no longer under pressure, so the molecules are free to set wherever is most comfortable.
It results in a weaker wheel where they may bend or break easier.
You can powder coat cast wheels with no adverse effects. However, powdercoating forged wheels will basically undo some of the forging. Forged wheels are made under thousands of pounds of pressure, heat, and are quenched to lock the basic elements of the alloy together. Putting the wheels under the required heat to cure the powdercoating is like annealing sheetmetal. The molecules 'unlock' and are no longer under pressure, so the molecules are free to set wherever is most comfortable.
It results in a weaker wheel where they may bend or break easier.
Powdercoat the calipers and nothing else, not even the wheels.
You can powder coat cast wheels with no adverse effects. However, powdercoating forged wheels will basically undo some of the forging. Forged wheels are made under thousands of pounds of pressure, heat, and are quenched to lock the basic elements of the alloy together. Putting the wheels under the required heat to cure the powdercoating is like annealing sheetmetal. The molecules 'unlock' and are no longer under pressure, so the molecules are free to set wherever is most comfortable.
It results in a weaker wheel where they may bend or break easier.
You can powder coat cast wheels with no adverse effects. However, powdercoating forged wheels will basically undo some of the forging. Forged wheels are made under thousands of pounds of pressure, heat, and are quenched to lock the basic elements of the alloy together. Putting the wheels under the required heat to cure the powdercoating is like annealing sheetmetal. The molecules 'unlock' and are no longer under pressure, so the molecules are free to set wherever is most comfortable.
It results in a weaker wheel where they may bend or break easier.
Thousands of members here have powdercoated their forged wheels with NO adverse affects.
Powdercoating temperatures are relatively low. And if that's true, why is the Z wheel that's famous for snapping after powdercoating a cast wheels while I've never, ever heard of a case of a forged wheel breaking?
Thousands of members here have powdercoated their forged wheels with NO adverse affects.
Thousands of members here have powdercoated their forged wheels with NO adverse affects.
I need to be making an informed decision.
Just so you know, the bake temps for powdercoating are about 350-400 degrees Fahrenheit, which barely cooks a turkey. It certainly wouldn't be enough to weaken any forged metal. But, get some second opinions just to be sure.
Aluminum materials which ends with a T6 or other number are essentially heat treated (6061-T6, 7075-T6). Find out the composition of your wheel. Those temperatures are hot enough to affect the microstucture of heat treated alloys, might not be significant enough to cause an issue. But I would not powdercoat wheels, or rotors.
I thought I heard there was a powdercoat material that cured at 250 deg. F. That would be safer.
I thought I heard there was a powdercoat material that cured at 250 deg. F. That would be safer.
More opinions on this anyone?
I need to be making an informed decision.
I need to be making an informed decision.
Bare aluminum has a melting point 1220 degrees F. The wheels aren't complete aluminum; they are alloys but the main temperature properties aren't altered that much. Without getting into too much detail (and in an effort to not bore you), here's straight isht.
When you get into the upper 2/3rds of that temperature range, the grain of the alloy starts to 'flow' from its cold or hot worked grain structure. In simpler terms, the tightness of the grain structure starts to loosen. When you get to about half of the melting temperature, nearly all of the benefits of the forging process have been baked out.
Another reason why I'm going into a ton of detail is because we don't know the alloy spec or what type of forging method Rays uses. However, most hydraulic press forging temperatures range from 600-800 degrees F. There's your half of the melting point. Once the alloy is pressed, the grain structure is very tight and dense. But if you allow it to cool naturally, the grain loosens and it only marginally harder/stronger then a cast wheel. Instead, it's quenched to lock the grain.
When you're curing the powdercoat, you easily get into the 2/3rds temperature range.
If you need a more 'in-person' demonstration, get a piece of aluminum sheetmetal. Most sheetmetal is cold rolled, which isn't nearly as complicated or beneficial for strength as forging; it's mainly to control the quality and quickly set the thickness of the sheet.
Take your sheetmetal and try to bend it. If you can, okay. If not, that's even better. Now take that sheetmetal, put it in the oven at 400 degrees F (bottom of the 2/3rds range) for 20 minutes. Take it out, let it cool and try to bend it again.
Keep in mind, that's only the cold-rolled working being baked out. The same thing will happen with forged wheels.
If I was flipping burgers, a bank manager, or a **** star, I wouldn't expect you to take me seriously. But I'm an mechanical engineer/industrial designer and I deal with this stuff DAILY.
Opinions are welcome, but I'll throw you a fact or two.
Bare aluminum has a melting point 1220 degrees F. The wheels aren't complete aluminum; they are alloys but the main temperature properties aren't altered that much. Without getting into too much detail (and in an effort to not bore you), here's straight isht.
When you get into the upper 2/3rds of that temperature range, the grain of the alloy starts to 'flow' from its cold or hot worked grain structure. In simpler terms, the tightness of the grain structure starts to loosen. When you get to about half of the melting temperature, nearly all of the benefits of the forging process have been baked out.
Another reason why I'm going into a ton of detail is because we don't know the alloy spec or what type of forging method Rays uses. However, most hydraulic press forging temperatures range from 600-800 degrees F. There's your half of the melting point. Once the alloy is pressed, the grain structure is very tight and dense. But if you allow it to cool naturally, the grain loosens and it only marginally harder/stronger then a cast wheel. Instead, it's quenched to lock the grain.
When you're curing the powdercoat, you easily get into the 2/3rds temperature range.
If you need a more 'in-person' demonstration, get a piece of aluminum sheetmetal. Most sheetmetal is cold rolled, which isn't nearly as complicated or beneficial for strength as forging; it's mainly to control the quality and quickly set the thickness of the sheet.
Take your sheetmetal and try to bend it. If you can, okay. If not, that's even better. Now take that sheetmetal, put it in the oven at 400 degrees F (bottom of the 2/3rds range) for 20 minutes. Take it out, let it cool and try to bend it again.
Keep in mind, that's only the cold-rolled working being baked out. The same thing will happen with forged wheels.
If I was flipping burgers, a bank manager, or a **** star, I wouldn't expect you to take me seriously. But I'm an mechanical engineer/industrial designer and I deal with this stuff DAILY.
Bare aluminum has a melting point 1220 degrees F. The wheels aren't complete aluminum; they are alloys but the main temperature properties aren't altered that much. Without getting into too much detail (and in an effort to not bore you), here's straight isht.
When you get into the upper 2/3rds of that temperature range, the grain of the alloy starts to 'flow' from its cold or hot worked grain structure. In simpler terms, the tightness of the grain structure starts to loosen. When you get to about half of the melting temperature, nearly all of the benefits of the forging process have been baked out.
Another reason why I'm going into a ton of detail is because we don't know the alloy spec or what type of forging method Rays uses. However, most hydraulic press forging temperatures range from 600-800 degrees F. There's your half of the melting point. Once the alloy is pressed, the grain structure is very tight and dense. But if you allow it to cool naturally, the grain loosens and it only marginally harder/stronger then a cast wheel. Instead, it's quenched to lock the grain.
When you're curing the powdercoat, you easily get into the 2/3rds temperature range.
If you need a more 'in-person' demonstration, get a piece of aluminum sheetmetal. Most sheetmetal is cold rolled, which isn't nearly as complicated or beneficial for strength as forging; it's mainly to control the quality and quickly set the thickness of the sheet.
Take your sheetmetal and try to bend it. If you can, okay. If not, that's even better. Now take that sheetmetal, put it in the oven at 400 degrees F (bottom of the 2/3rds range) for 20 minutes. Take it out, let it cool and try to bend it again.
Keep in mind, that's only the cold-rolled working being baked out. The same thing will happen with forged wheels.
If I was flipping burgers, a bank manager, or a **** star, I wouldn't expect you to take me seriously. But I'm an mechanical engineer/industrial designer and I deal with this stuff DAILY.
THIS is very very interesting and something I hadnt thought of. I have been having problems with the clutch sticking in hot temperatures (Sticking halfway after disengage)...
Already have the stainless steel clutch line ready to go in, just waiting on the Dot4 Brake fluid i ordered in effort to fix this problem.
What could be leaking/broken that would get the brake fluid from the clutch to the wheel?
Already have the stainless steel clutch line ready to go in, just waiting on the Dot4 Brake fluid i ordered in effort to fix this problem.
What could be leaking/broken that would get the brake fluid from the clutch to the wheel?