Bad Experience at NISSAN of Lewisville....Is 10w30 Chevron Motor Oil any good?
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Good Information!
Here my Conclusion:
-Since they already put 10w30 in my car, I guess ill keep using 10w30 for the summer.
- End of summer Around Aug/Sept I will switch to Mobil 1 Syn 5w30 not 10w30....
Here my Conclusion:
-Since they already put 10w30 in my car, I guess ill keep using 10w30 for the summer.
- End of summer Around Aug/Sept I will switch to Mobil 1 Syn 5w30 not 10w30....
A UOA done on VQ motors in the far north during the winter months will show you how much more metal elements are detected in the oil because the motor is not protected.
As discussed in that Oil Analysis thread, the lower winter weight oils are usually more expensive than a higher winter weight. You will see that the M1 5W-30 shows better engine protection than M1 10W-30.
IMHO if you have a choice between M1 5W or 10W-30 and they are the same price, I would ALWAYS choose the 5W-30. Hence why I continue to use 0W-40 (lower winter weight and higher operating temp weight) but also because I have FI and the 40 weight provides better protection than a 30 weight but may cost a few horsepower (which I think I can afford
)
Dealers usually get their oil in big bulk barrels so I'm not surprised many employees don't know what they actually use.
Chevron is a very good conventional oil. You will be fine with 10W-30 in TX, and I'd have no problem running it 4K miles in a VQ engine. It has a higher HTHS (high temp, high shear) rating than 5W-30, which resists volatilization (basically becoming a vapor and being consumed). Change back to 5W-30 whatever next time, but you probably won't notice much difference during the summer. The Chevron might even make the idle quieter(!)
Tonke73 - check autozone for GC, I've never seen it at WM.
BeerViper - Thanks for that info and link. Somehow I always knew 0W-40 was the best Mobil 1 for our engines
Chevron is a very good conventional oil. You will be fine with 10W-30 in TX, and I'd have no problem running it 4K miles in a VQ engine. It has a higher HTHS (high temp, high shear) rating than 5W-30, which resists volatilization (basically becoming a vapor and being consumed). Change back to 5W-30 whatever next time, but you probably won't notice much difference during the summer. The Chevron might even make the idle quieter(!)
Tonke73 - check autozone for GC, I've never seen it at WM.
BeerViper - Thanks for that info and link. Somehow I always knew 0W-40 was the best Mobil 1 for our engines
Its sooo funny you think I would ever pay that much for JUST OIL. I dont pay $68 for just the oil. I pay $68 for an oil change using mobil one synthetic. I never said it was cheap, just trying to give the OP an idea.
Last edited by tailwindK; May 7, 2009 at 11:20 PM.
i've always liked to use 10w 30 bcuz since we're in Texas u never know what the weather is, so i like to be safe and use the thicker oil because in the end it's gonna thin it self out anyways...
, it sounds like you don't understand what oil weight means ... 10W-30 is not thicker than 5W-30!!! In fact if you look at the post by MarkG, Mobil 1 10W-30 is actually been tested to be "THINNER" than M1 5W-30 in independent testing. I'm not saying that you use Mobil 1 but that is just an example...Both a 5W-30 and a 10W-30 are 30 weight oils!! The "W" after the 5 and 10 respectively are the "WINTER" weight, look at the graph I posted above from the my350z Oil Analysis thread. When you start your engine cold, you WANT a thinner oil so that it can be pumped through the engine block more easily to lubricate all of the moving parts.
If you truly want a thicker oil, use what I use -> Mobil 0W-40 ... I use it YEAR ROUND on my boosted motor!
Are 0W-xx oils too thin for my engine?
As discussed previously, multi-grade oils are designed to behave like two different oil weights at two different temperatures. Since an oil is thicker with colder temperatures, a lower weight oil flows better, and better protects the engine during start-up since it is easier to pump to critical areas. So, a 0W-xx oil is a better oil for start-up, especially in cold temperatures. When the oil heats up and starts to thin out, it becomes a heavier weight oil just like a 5W-xx or 10W-xx oil would. So, a 0W-xx oil is only a “thinner” oil when it’s cold- where it is a benefit. At operating temperatures, a 0W-30 is the same weight as a 5W or 10W-30, just as a 0W-40 is the same weight as a 15W-40, etc... Therefore, 0W-xx oils tend to be better suited for year-round use in any climate, since they flow better in cold temps but become as thick as any other similar grade oil when hot.
As discussed previously, multi-grade oils are designed to behave like two different oil weights at two different temperatures. Since an oil is thicker with colder temperatures, a lower weight oil flows better, and better protects the engine during start-up since it is easier to pump to critical areas. So, a 0W-xx oil is a better oil for start-up, especially in cold temperatures. When the oil heats up and starts to thin out, it becomes a heavier weight oil just like a 5W-xx or 10W-xx oil would. So, a 0W-xx oil is only a “thinner” oil when it’s cold- where it is a benefit. At operating temperatures, a 0W-30 is the same weight as a 5W or 10W-30, just as a 0W-40 is the same weight as a 15W-40, etc... Therefore, 0W-xx oils tend to be better suited for year-round use in any climate, since they flow better in cold temps but become as thick as any other similar grade oil when hot.
Last edited by BeerViper; May 8, 2009 at 01:05 PM.
