Bad Experience at NISSAN of Lewisville....Is 10w30 Chevron Motor Oil any good?

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Old 05-06-2009, 05:24 PM
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Angry Bad Experience at NISSAN of Lewisville....Is 10w30 Chevron Motor Oil any good?

I went to Nissan dealership because I had a 19.99 coupon for oil change vs Infiniti coupon for 49.99 oil change. I called NISSAN asked them what oil they use with this coupon they said Valvoline 5w30 same as Infiniti (valvoline 5-30)

-I went into the Nissan dealership and asked them again what oil they use and he said MOBIL I was like WTH, yall just told me something else over the phone. He said whoever told you was wrong.
-I asked the tech who was doing the oil change what oil he said he didnt know
- I asked another service rep and he said they use Castrol WTFFF again...
- Then I went to the front desk to the parts department, he then asked his service manager and he said they used CHEVRON OIL...

The initial guy told me that they dont use 5w-30 anymore because it gets too hot in Texas so they switched to 10w30. IS this correct or should I have stuck with the 5w30?

Is Chevron Motor Oil 10W30 any good? I usually go to infiniti and they use Mobile. Next time I am going to bring my own oil...
 
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by GCoupe35
The initial guy told me that they dont use 5w-30 anymore because it gets too hot in Texas so they switched to 10w30. IS this correct or should I have stuck with the 5w30?
I've never used Chevron motor oil so i can't comment on that. 5w means the viscosity of the oil when cold. 'W' means winter. 30 is the viscosity of the oil at 100 degrees centrigade at operating temperature. 5w30 flows better when cold and flows (same viscosity) the same as 10w30 when at operating temperature.

They'll be plenty to chime in and correct me if i'm wrong. I personally use 5w30 in my G.
 

Last edited by tonke73; 05-06-2009 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:01 PM
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Lots of conflicting information they were giving you, but nothing really bad in my opinion as far as how it will affect your car.

5w30 is pretty thin and not really needed in our climate.
 
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by tonke73
I've never used Chevron motor oil so i can't comment on that. 5w means the viscosity of the oil when cold. 'W' means winter. 30 is the viscosity of the oil at 100 degrees centrigade at operating temperature. 5w30 flows better when cold and flows (same viscosity) the same as 10w30 when at operating temperature.

They'll be plenty to chime in and correct me if i'm wrong. I personally use 5w30 in my G.
I thought "w" meant weight?

5weight when cold and 30weight when hot...

Either way, it sounds like the OP is getting the run-around...
 
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:18 PM
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Ya man it sucks, I did feel that the car was slugish MAYBE its just my mind playing tricks on me since they told me "Chevron" brand, I was like I never heard of this junk...

I will wait 3 months, I have 15k miles right now...Ill prob go Mobil 1 Syn 5w30 next change with the OEM oil filter....

I dont know if I can trust Infiniti anymore either.... I wont be going to the dealerships anymore which I always did more my oil changes =(
 
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by GCoupe35

I will wait 3 months, I have 15k miles right now...Ill prob go Mobil 1 Syn 5w30 next change with the OEM oil filter....

I dont know if I can trust Infiniti anymore either.... I wont be going to the dealerships anymore which I always did more my oil changes =(
Never go to the stealership for an oil change! I pay about $68 for Mobil 1 syn 5w30 for my G(not super cheap, but I dont have my ramps currently to change it myself). Usually run it for 5-6k before I change it. No problems at all, no oil loss really, and my G runs really smooth. Hope any of that helps.
 
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:41 PM
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68 is expensive, Why dont you buy the oil and let someone put it in for you about 10 bucks...
 
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Old 05-06-2009, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by tailwindK
Never go to the stealership for an oil change! I pay about $68 for Mobil 1 syn 5w30 for my G(not super cheap, but I dont have my ramps currently to change it myself). Usually run it for 5-6k before I change it. No problems at all, no oil loss really, and my G runs really smooth. Hope any of that helps.

That is insane to pay that much for Mobil1...

Go to Wal-Mart and get the 5 quart jug for $25 then an extra quart for about $5

Whoever you are getting your oil from right now is screwing you bad!

Threads just like this one is why I am the only one who touches my car..
 
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Old 05-07-2009, 12:35 AM
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I went to Wally world today and a quart of Mobil 1 was $6.27. They still had no german Castrol.
 
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Old 05-07-2009, 11:07 AM
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You guys need to learn a little about motor oil, I would highly recommend you set aside an hour or two and read through this entire thread on my350z: http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-d...-and-info.html

Here you will learn exactly what oils have shown to perform the best for the VQ engine under all operating conditions.

I personally have been using Mobil 1 0W-40 and have sent in my last 2 oil samples to one of the independent testing laboratories called Blackstone Labs. The thread moderator of that my350z thread understands more about oil than any natural human should without having 3 PHD's! He has critiqued my oil analysis and has stated that the Mobil1 0W-40 has shown lower wear elements after 3k miles (over 9 months) than most other non-boosted motors that have had their oil tested.

As for the weight of the oil, the W is the Winter weight of the oil just like tonke73 said. You need to understand that the cold startup weight of your cannot be too thin, remember I use 0W-40 in my boosted engine which means that ... again I recommend you at least read the first page of that VQ Oil Analysis thread as you will learn a lot.

Here is an exert from the VQ Oil analysis thread about oil weight:
Originally Posted by Resolute
What does the oil weight actually mean?
An oil’s weight refers to it’s measured viscosity at a given temperature. The temperature of the oil is important when measuring it’s viscosity because an oil becomes thinner, or less viscous, when it is heated. Conversely, oil becomes thicker, or more viscous, when it is cooled. Because oil viscosity changes with temperature, an oil’s weight is determined by the measured viscosity at a specific temperature (100 deg C). The unit of measure is called a centistroke (cSt). The higher the measure of viscosity at 100 deg C in centistrokes (cSt), the higher the oil’s weight. The following chart shows the viscosity an oil must be at a given temperature for each oil weight.


So how does that translate into the weight I see printed on the bottle, like 10W-30?
Some oils are straight weight oils, like a straight 30 weight oil. This means the oil is always a 30 weight oil at any given temperature. The oil still thins out with heat, and thickens up as it cools, but at any given temperature it will measure within the specs for a 30 weight oil at that temperature. This is not good for your engine during cold starts or in cold weather, because a 30 weight oil is very thick when it is cold. Thick oils are harder to pump and therefore don’t flow through the engine and lubricate very quickly. The solution is a multi-grade oil. A multi-grade oil is still thicker when it is cold than when hot, but not as thick as a straight weight oil. In the case of a 10W-30, the “10” refers to the oil’s “Winter” weight (hence the “W”). A 10 weight oil is thinner than a 30 weight oil at cold temperatures, and thereby flows easier to properly lubricate the engine upon start-up. As the engine reaches operating temperature, the oil thins out- but does not stay a 10 weight oil. It becomes a heavier weight, and in this case, becomes only as thin as a 30 weight oil at operating temperature. Here is a simple chart, courtesy of Noria, that shows how a 10W-30 compares to straight 10 and 30 weight oils.


What winter weight should I use, a 5W, 10W.. etc?
Since the majority of engine wear occurs during start-up, it is important to use oil that will flow well and lubricate the engine quickly during this time. Remembering that oil is thicker when cold, the proper winter weight is one which provides the maximum amount of flow for the given ambient temperatures when the engine is started. The colder the temperature of the oil, the harder it is to pump, so a thinner winter weight is beneficial during start-up. As ambient temperatures increase, the oil will thin out and start to get closer to its operating grade, and at some point, multi-grade oils like 5W-30 and 10W-30 will be close to the same viscosity for a given ambient temperature. This means that there is no harm in using 5W oil even in hot climates. As an example, the start-up viscosity of a 5W-40 and a 15W-40 may well be the same if the ambient temperature is hot enough. This also means that heavier winter weight oil (such as 15W-xx) may be used if the ambient temperatures are warm enough to ensure that it can be pumped quickly enough to properly lubricate the engine during start-up. The importance of selecting an oil with proper start-up viscosity is paramount, and is why auto manufacturers recommend winter weights based on the ambient temperatures with charts similar to this one:


Are 0W-xx oils too thin for my engine?
As discussed previously, multi-grade oils are designed to behave like two different oil weights at two different temperatures. Since an oil is thicker with colder temperatures, a lower weight oil flows better, and better protects the engine during start-up since it is easier to pump to critical areas. So, a 0W-xx oil is a better oil for start-up, especially in cold temperatures. When the oil heats up and starts to thin out, it becomes a heavier weight oil just like a 5W-xx or 10W-xx oil would. So, a 0W-xx oil is only a “thinner” oil when it’s cold- where it is a benefit. At operating temperatures, a 0W-30 is the same weight as a 5W or 10W-30, just as a 0W-40 is the same weight as a 15W-40, etc... Therefore, 0W-xx oils tend to be better suited for year-round use in any climate, since they flow better in cold temps but become as thick as any other similar grade oil when hot.
 
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Old 05-07-2009, 11:16 AM
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good read Jon
 
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Old 05-07-2009, 11:26 AM
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Cool. Thanks Jon.
So, in the Texas heat we are fine with all the grades shown in the last chart above. I guess, I will stick with 10W-30 though.
 
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Old 05-07-2009, 11:40 AM
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Yeah 10W-30 is fine in the summer ... but read that part at the end about 0W-xx oils, for the life of your engine (at startup) it's always better have a "thinner" oil to better protect the motor at startup.

Also don't ever trust an oil companies marketing, just because someone claims "10 times better protection than Mobil 1" or something like that, that doesn't mean it's better for the VQ. The oil analysis thread shows historical data for hundreds of oil analysis' done on VQ's and you can see that some oils are FAR better than others. For example, Royal Purple synthetic (expensive) has been shown to provide less wear protection than some conventional oils. The Used Oil Analysis (UOA) is your only true test of what oil will protect your engine better than another oil.
 
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Old 05-07-2009, 12:50 PM
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and it never gets cold enough here in texas to change in the winter anyway.

Originally Posted by BeerViper
Yeah 10W-30 is fine in the summer ... but read that part at the end about 0W-xx oils, for the life of your engine (at startup) it's always better have a "thinner" oil to better protect the motor at startup.

Also don't ever trust an oil companies marketing, just because someone claims "10 times better protection than Mobil 1" or something like that, that doesn't mean it's better for the VQ. The oil analysis thread shows historical data for hundreds of oil analysis' done on VQ's and you can see that some oils are FAR better than others. For example, Royal Purple synthetic (expensive) has been shown to provide less wear protection than some conventional oils. The Used Oil Analysis (UOA) is your only true test of what oil will protect your engine better than another oil.
 
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Old 05-07-2009, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by g35driver76039
and it never gets cold enough here in texas to change in the winter anyway.
Exactly. Im not an oil expert. But from reading the exert, looks like, here in TX we be just fine with the 10W-30.
 

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