Dear DFW G crew, BeerViper needs HELP!
#16
Copper plugs don't go bad gracefully, especially on a boosted car. It may not be the sole purpose, but I'm sure it's not helping.
And an easier trick for the vacuum leak is just to start the car, open the hood, and start spraying carb cleaner in little spurts. If the motor idle changes consistently after spraying in a specific location, then there's your leak.
And an easier trick for the vacuum leak is just to start the car, open the hood, and start spraying carb cleaner in little spurts. If the motor idle changes consistently after spraying in a specific location, then there's your leak.
#17
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Just soooo every one knows...on our cars there is only 1 vacuum line(from the plenum to the brake booster). Every other line is either pcv, coolant or fuel. Idk if your supercharger kit adds more, but on an n/a car there is only 1.
soooo unless your plenum is warped, our you've blown a gasket out..... Although if you did blow a gasket somewhere after the maf, that would make a lot of sense for the lean codes (unmetered air would obviously throw the mix way off). Use a can of brake clean, carb cleaner or starting fluid to spray you intake track starting after the maf(work your way back along your intake tube and all the way around the plenum). If you get to a point where you hear the rpm's noticably increase, thats where the air is getting in. Try this before cleaning the maf, thats an expensive part to replace if it gets damaged.
soooo unless your plenum is warped, our you've blown a gasket out..... Although if you did blow a gasket somewhere after the maf, that would make a lot of sense for the lean codes (unmetered air would obviously throw the mix way off). Use a can of brake clean, carb cleaner or starting fluid to spray you intake track starting after the maf(work your way back along your intake tube and all the way around the plenum). If you get to a point where you hear the rpm's noticably increase, thats where the air is getting in. Try this before cleaning the maf, thats an expensive part to replace if it gets damaged.
#21
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,690
Likes: 16
From: Keller, TX (DFW)
So last night I ended up cleaning the MAF sensor and pulled the intake tube, removed the throttle body (which was filthy) and cleaned both sides of the butterfly and surround with Seafoam DeepCreep and a toothbrush. There were no signs of any vacuum leaks anywhere along the intake but I didn't try the way that Jeremiah suggested (yet).
Let everything dry and started her back up (luckily she fired right up with no idle issues after messing with the TB).
The SES light was still on so I proceeded to warm up the engine and then poured half the bottle of Seafoam in the gas tank and sucked the other half through the brake booster vacuum line. Then as the directions instruct I turned the engine off for 5 minutes. Started back up after 5 minutes and went for a drive on the highway for about 10 miles.
She ran very strong and smooth but I still didn't push it 100%. There was the typical white smoke from the Seafoam all the way to the highway.
I was hoping the SES light would clear by itself but no such luck. I'm gonna go try the ECU pedal reset procedure to clear the code and see what happens.
It definitely didn't seem to be sucking gas like it had been so with all hopes I don't have to replace the O2 sensors!
Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far guys!
Let everything dry and started her back up (luckily she fired right up with no idle issues after messing with the TB).
The SES light was still on so I proceeded to warm up the engine and then poured half the bottle of Seafoam in the gas tank and sucked the other half through the brake booster vacuum line. Then as the directions instruct I turned the engine off for 5 minutes. Started back up after 5 minutes and went for a drive on the highway for about 10 miles.
She ran very strong and smooth but I still didn't push it 100%. There was the typical white smoke from the Seafoam all the way to the highway.
I was hoping the SES light would clear by itself but no such luck. I'm gonna go try the ECU pedal reset procedure to clear the code and see what happens.
It definitely didn't seem to be sucking gas like it had been so with all hopes I don't have to replace the O2 sensors!
Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far guys!
#23
#24
Kan Tuning is right over there by you. Steve is a really cool guy, and would probably clear the codes for you if you took it over to his shop when he's there. His number is 817-6835715. If not, I could swing by. I have a code reader that I believe will clear the codes. Got it for Christmas and haven't used it yet. Just let me know.
#25
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,690
Likes: 16
From: Keller, TX (DFW)
Thanks guys. I did the good old DIY ECU reset which clears the code. Got it on the first try this time around.
Drove about 30 or 40 miles today after resetting the ECU and pushed it pretty hard a few times. So far so good, the SES light hasn't come back *knock on wood*!
I will tell you one thing though, after cleaning the throttle body and doing the Seafoam through the manifold she is purring like a kitten. Can't remember the last time the idle has been so smooth and steady!
Drove about 30 or 40 miles today after resetting the ECU and pushed it pretty hard a few times. So far so good, the SES light hasn't come back *knock on wood*!
I will tell you one thing though, after cleaning the throttle body and doing the Seafoam through the manifold she is purring like a kitten. Can't remember the last time the idle has been so smooth and steady!
#27
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,690
Likes: 16
From: Keller, TX (DFW)
Ran the tank down low with that 1/2 bottle of Seafoam, dumped another FULL bottle in the tank before filling up just to continue cleaning the fuel system out!
I'm still 2500 miles out from my next oil change so I will wait until just before changing and then do another treatment ... this time 1/3 gas tank, 1/3 manifold, and 1/3 in the crank!
Another 20 miles now and all seems okay still! No SES light since the ECU reset!
I'm still 2500 miles out from my next oil change so I will wait until just before changing and then do another treatment ... this time 1/3 gas tank, 1/3 manifold, and 1/3 in the crank!
Another 20 miles now and all seems okay still! No SES light since the ECU reset!
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