Went against a 350z and M3 at the track
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 452
Likes: 1
From: Daly City, CA
Originally Posted by 03BaseSedan
Lol, a 3inch axle back, talk about a waste. That's almost as dumb as running a full 3inch exhaust on an N/A G35. At least you didn't get a matching 3inch mid-pipe 
With the drastic diameter increase at the end of the exhaust system you're losing low end. I actually used to have a "muffler" setup kind of like your axle back, and while it sounded better, the dyno showed that I lost power between 3500 and 4500 (couldn't do lower rpms since I have the primitive setup of the 5AT). It also felt like I lost more low end from a idle, and my standing start was probably a little slower, even with torque braking. I agree that the biggest bottlenecks in the stock exhaust are the y-pipe and the muffler, but you're taking the wrong approach. You may think I'm wrong, but many people report low end loses running only an axle back.
You'd be better off getting a full cat-back that's 2.25in and not more than 2.5in, or even resonated test pipes/HFC's with a stock exhaust. That way you could at least make power. In terms of a cat-back, why don't you consider Motordyne? They'll be coming out with their line of systems soon.
As for Megan, when I had my old car, GTI, I bought a set of coilovers from them and they were the biggest piece of garbage I have ever put on the car. Within 10,000miles, one of the coils blew and Megan was horrible about getting me a replacement. As for the G35, I don't understand why you would buy Megan parts when you can get much better alternatives. A friend that owns a shop partially sponsored by Megan even agrees with me that they're crap. In fact, the only good thing they make is suspension products, and I obviously haven't had luck with those. I've heard of welds leaking on Megan test pipes for our cars, and I don't think anyone that's running fast times is doing so with Megan products.
As for you wheels, that's great, but you don't factor in the additional weight of the larger tires. I've run lighter larger wheels (oem 19's vs. oem 16's vs. oem 17's) only to be disappointed because the extra weight of the larger tires on the 19inch wheels almost negates the lighter weight of the wheel, but hey, you're the expert here.
The art of the 5AT?
What rpm are in you 4th when crossing the line? Maybe you should get Gordgee's 10-wire grounding kit for the 5AT. Mine cuts shift time in MM by half.
The fact is, your 3.5 ratio, and the smaller diameter of your tires, effectively gives you a 3.55 final drive ratio. The extra shift into 4th is making you slower. It eats up your trap speed and slows down your ET.
Maybe you should get a tune that will help you make power up top with a revised rev limit so that you can run out 3rd. Might not be the best idea to rev out to 7200 on a consistent basis, due to the DE's somewhat weak connecting rod bolts, but at least you won't be losing trap speed and adding time becasue of an extra shift and your "sweet" wheel/tire combo. It might also fix your optimistic speedo from the smaller overall diameter of your tires.
Your car can be faster than what it is. I don't understand why you don't use proven parts, such as Motordyne spacers or a nice cat-back (why buy Skunk over Motordyne? Is it a cost issue?). As I mentioned earlier, wait until Motordyne comes out with their exhaust, and you should notice a horsepower increase and faster times. Tony is saying that he's found a couple of setups that give large gains. As for the 3.5 FD (3.55 with your tire/wheel combo)...good luck, that was your own doing.
Either way, maybe next time you can take constructive criticism without being such a ****ing douchebag becasue you certainly don't know everything about the G35.
DOMO
With the drastic diameter increase at the end of the exhaust system you're losing low end. I actually used to have a "muffler" setup kind of like your axle back, and while it sounded better, the dyno showed that I lost power between 3500 and 4500 (couldn't do lower rpms since I have the primitive setup of the 5AT). It also felt like I lost more low end from a idle, and my standing start was probably a little slower, even with torque braking. I agree that the biggest bottlenecks in the stock exhaust are the y-pipe and the muffler, but you're taking the wrong approach. You may think I'm wrong, but many people report low end loses running only an axle back.
You'd be better off getting a full cat-back that's 2.25in and not more than 2.5in, or even resonated test pipes/HFC's with a stock exhaust. That way you could at least make power. In terms of a cat-back, why don't you consider Motordyne? They'll be coming out with their line of systems soon.
As for Megan, when I had my old car, GTI, I bought a set of coilovers from them and they were the biggest piece of garbage I have ever put on the car. Within 10,000miles, one of the coils blew and Megan was horrible about getting me a replacement. As for the G35, I don't understand why you would buy Megan parts when you can get much better alternatives. A friend that owns a shop partially sponsored by Megan even agrees with me that they're crap. In fact, the only good thing they make is suspension products, and I obviously haven't had luck with those. I've heard of welds leaking on Megan test pipes for our cars, and I don't think anyone that's running fast times is doing so with Megan products.
As for you wheels, that's great, but you don't factor in the additional weight of the larger tires. I've run lighter larger wheels (oem 19's vs. oem 16's vs. oem 17's) only to be disappointed because the extra weight of the larger tires on the 19inch wheels almost negates the lighter weight of the wheel, but hey, you're the expert here.
The art of the 5AT?
What rpm are in you 4th when crossing the line? Maybe you should get Gordgee's 10-wire grounding kit for the 5AT. Mine cuts shift time in MM by half.
The fact is, your 3.5 ratio, and the smaller diameter of your tires, effectively gives you a 3.55 final drive ratio. The extra shift into 4th is making you slower. It eats up your trap speed and slows down your ET.
Maybe you should get a tune that will help you make power up top with a revised rev limit so that you can run out 3rd. Might not be the best idea to rev out to 7200 on a consistent basis, due to the DE's somewhat weak connecting rod bolts, but at least you won't be losing trap speed and adding time becasue of an extra shift and your "sweet" wheel/tire combo. It might also fix your optimistic speedo from the smaller overall diameter of your tires.
Your car can be faster than what it is. I don't understand why you don't use proven parts, such as Motordyne spacers or a nice cat-back (why buy Skunk over Motordyne? Is it a cost issue?). As I mentioned earlier, wait until Motordyne comes out with their exhaust, and you should notice a horsepower increase and faster times. Tony is saying that he's found a couple of setups that give large gains. As for the 3.5 FD (3.55 with your tire/wheel combo)...good luck, that was your own doing.
Either way, maybe next time you can take constructive criticism without being such a ****ing douchebag becasue you certainly don't know everything about the G35.
DOMO
It's only considered constructive criticism when the person criticizing actually knows what they're talking about.
END OF DISCLAIMER.
Why the hell would you recommend a 2.25" full catback exhaust to gain power?? Are you aware that the stock midpipe size for the 03-06 sedan is 2.5"? You should go out and measure one before you talk out of your ***.
Again, your issue with Megan is your own personal opinion. You've never had any experience with the SPECIFIC product I'm using, so for you to compare coilovers for your GTI over an exhaust for the G35 is like comparing apples and oranges from the same company. That's the same as saying, "I don't like Del Monte produce, because I had one bad apple from them, so everything they make sucks!"
At least you're right about one thing, though, or almost right. My wheels/tires setup are great! The combined weight is at least 5lbs lighter than stock. When I get a chance I'll put both my stock 17"s and 19" wheels on a commercialized scale, take pics, and show them to you. I'd like to hear what you have to say about them next...
The art of driving a 5AT in sports mode does sound kinda funny. I bet you're thinking, "It's an automatic! WTF are you talking about?" Hahaha, sure, let's see some vids of you drive a pretty much stock 5AT at the track. I wanna see what kind of numbers you get.Don't worry about the gearing, because I'm not done with that yet. Let me share a secret with you. There's actually quite a few people with N/A G35's and 350z's that actually go shorter than the 3.55 final drive you're referring to. The 2007 G35 sedans all have a 3.7 FD, and there's an aftermarket Central 20 3.9 FD, and lastly a 4.083 FD option from a Nissan Frontier. Now, I don't know about you (well you don't have one, so yeah), but people who've had them installed swears by the 3.9 or 4.083 gears. To quote the people who have them, "It's like the best thing I ever bought for my car! It feels the same as having force induction."
Here's the link to the search button if you want to find out more about shorter gears:
https://g35driver.com/forums/search.php
Lastly, what's a G35 sedan minus a stillen z-tube, skunk2 plenum spacer, and 3" axleback? Well, just a bone stock car, of course! The thought of having a tune over 3 minor mods haven't actually crossed my mind yet. Maybe a few months down the road, when I have exhaust cut outs and even shorter gears (OH NOOO!!). Nonetheless, that's a good advice to give someone with a pretty much stock car
Well, sir, I would like to thank you for your awesome feedback about my car. I hope you had as much as fun as I did. Next time, don't think about it too hard. You don't have to wait a week to think of what to say next, just say what's on your mind.
Sincerely yours,
Stillmatic
DISCLAIMER:
It's only considered constructive criticism when the person criticizing actually knows what they're talking about.
END OF DISCLAIMER.
Why the hell would you recommend a 2.25" full catback exhaust to gain power?? Are you aware that the stock midpipe size for the 03-06 sedan is 2.5"? You should go out and measure one before you talk out of your ***.
It's only considered constructive criticism when the person criticizing actually knows what they're talking about.
END OF DISCLAIMER.
Why the hell would you recommend a 2.25" full catback exhaust to gain power?? Are you aware that the stock midpipe size for the 03-06 sedan is 2.5"? You should go out and measure one before you talk out of your ***.
Again, your issue with Megan is your own personal opinion. You've never had any experience with the SPECIFIC product I'm using, so for you to compare coilovers for your GTI over an exhaust for the G35 is like comparing apples and oranges from the same company. That's the same as saying, "I don't like Del Monte produce, because I had one bad apple from them, so everything they make sucks!"
Based on that, Megan is crap.
At least you're right about one thing, though, or almost right. My wheels/tires setup are great! The combined weight is at least 5lbs lighter than stock. When I get a chance I'll put both my stock 17"s and 19" wheels on a commercialized scale, take pics, and show them to you. I'd like to hear what you have to say about them next...
The art of driving a 5AT in sports mode does sound kinda funny. I bet you're thinking, "It's an automatic! WTF are you talking about?" Hahaha, sure, let's see some vids of you drive a pretty much stock 5AT at the track. I wanna see what kind of numbers you get.
I haven't gone to the track since I was stock, but when I was stock I ran a 14.68@96.12. I haven't been back since my mods, but I assume that it will run at least a little faster since I have added a cat-back, spacer, z-tube w.filter (does nothing), grounding wires, and I stripped trunk.
Don't worry about the gearing, because I'm not done with that yet. Let me share a secret with you. There's actually quite a few people with N/A G35's and 350z's that actually go shorter than the 3.55 final drive you're referring to. The 2007 G35 sedans all have a 3.7 FD, and there's an aftermarket Central 20 3.9 FD, and lastly a 4.083 FD option from a Nissan Frontier. Now, I don't know about you (well you don't have one, so yeah), but people who've had them installed swears by the 3.9 or 4.083 gears. To quote the people who have them, "It's like the best thing I ever bought for my car! It feels the same as having force induction."
Here's the link to the search button if you want to find out more about shorter gears:
https://g35driver.com/forums/search.php
Here's the link to the search button if you want to find out more about shorter gears:
https://g35driver.com/forums/search.php
I was actually going to suggest that you should look into the 3.7 FD offered by Nismo, but then again what do I know. I was hoping you could answer my question about rpm in 4th gear you were in when you crossed the line? That would help me make my recommendation, but you seem to have it all figured out.
Lastly, what's a G35 sedan minus a stillen z-tube, skunk2 plenum spacer, and 3" axleback? Well, just a bone stock car, of course! The thought of having a tune over 3 minor mods haven't actually crossed my mind yet. Maybe a few months down the road, when I have exhaust cut outs and even shorter gears (OH NOOO!!). Nonetheless, that's a good advice to give someone with a pretty much stock car
Well, sir, I would like to thank you for your awesome feedback about my car. I hope you had as much as fun as I did. Next time, don't think about it too hard. You don't have to wait a week to think of what to say next, just say what's on your mind.
Well, sir, I would like to thank you for your awesome feedback about my car. I hope you had as much as fun as I did. Next time, don't think about it too hard. You don't have to wait a week to think of what to say next, just say what's on your mind.
I wish I could mod my car like yours, but unfortunately in order to get to your trap speed I would need to lose some hp. Then again, you are well on your way to getting even slower if you're going to install exhaust cut-outs, but please, do prove me wrong.
I feel like I can learn so much from your extensive knowledge about the G35 and possible modifications.
Thanks for your help
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 452
Likes: 1
From: Daly City, CA
^^
Arguing with you is like arguing with a 5th grader. Please post again when you've successfully ran a 1/4 pass faster than 14.47 seconds. Seems like you and I have pretty much the same mods, well, I've done less to my car. Please provide us with videos, time slips and dyno graphs of all your claims, as that's what I've done in the 1st post of this thread (less the dyno part).
For the record, I never asked anyone how to make my car faster, so I didn't really need your so called "constructive criticism" in the first place. Nor, have I claimed to be a know it all G35 expert, I was simply replying to your expertise...
I wish I could answer your question about the RPM, but I don't remember what it was when I reached the finish line.
To recap,
My 19" wheels/tires shaved off at least 5lbs (in each corner) of rotational mass
-- Your suggestion: My wheels are heavy and make me slower
I have a STOCK 05-06 2.5" crushed bent midpipe, and 3" Megan Racing axleback
-- Your suggestion: Get 2.25" full catback because they flow better, and Megan Racing is crap because you compared my Megan axleback to your Megan coilovers for your GTI. Claimed that people gained power with 2.25" exhaust, and you lost power with an axleback with no dynographs to prove it.
You believe that exhaust cut outs will make me slower.
You have no idea what you're talking about, or know where I plan to do the cutouts. Have you ever dyno'd or ran a car with open header??
I say that there's an art to driving a 5AT in sports mode.
-- Your response: Driving an automatic is a no brainer, and recommend I should get a grounding kit because it cut your shifting time in half according to your butt dyno. Yet, you mentioned that you when you launch, you let the computer do the shifting from 1st to 2nd gear... If it's not that hard, why let the computer do the shifting??
My 3.5 FD is not ideal
If so, why would you think about suggesting an even shorter 3.7 FD? You're just contradicting yourself. I understand that it's hurting my trap speed, but at the same time it's helping my 60' time. Go do the math...
That's all I have to say.
God bless smart people!
Arguing with you is like arguing with a 5th grader. Please post again when you've successfully ran a 1/4 pass faster than 14.47 seconds. Seems like you and I have pretty much the same mods, well, I've done less to my car. Please provide us with videos, time slips and dyno graphs of all your claims, as that's what I've done in the 1st post of this thread (less the dyno part).
For the record, I never asked anyone how to make my car faster, so I didn't really need your so called "constructive criticism" in the first place. Nor, have I claimed to be a know it all G35 expert, I was simply replying to your expertise...
I wish I could answer your question about the RPM, but I don't remember what it was when I reached the finish line.
To recap,
My 19" wheels/tires shaved off at least 5lbs (in each corner) of rotational mass
-- Your suggestion: My wheels are heavy and make me slower
I have a STOCK 05-06 2.5" crushed bent midpipe, and 3" Megan Racing axleback
-- Your suggestion: Get 2.25" full catback because they flow better, and Megan Racing is crap because you compared my Megan axleback to your Megan coilovers for your GTI. Claimed that people gained power with 2.25" exhaust, and you lost power with an axleback with no dynographs to prove it.
You believe that exhaust cut outs will make me slower.
You have no idea what you're talking about, or know where I plan to do the cutouts. Have you ever dyno'd or ran a car with open header??
I say that there's an art to driving a 5AT in sports mode.
-- Your response: Driving an automatic is a no brainer, and recommend I should get a grounding kit because it cut your shifting time in half according to your butt dyno. Yet, you mentioned that you when you launch, you let the computer do the shifting from 1st to 2nd gear... If it's not that hard, why let the computer do the shifting??
My 3.5 FD is not ideal
If so, why would you think about suggesting an even shorter 3.7 FD? You're just contradicting yourself. I understand that it's hurting my trap speed, but at the same time it's helping my 60' time. Go do the math...
That's all I have to say.
God bless smart people!
^^
Arguing with you is like arguing with a 5th grader. Please post again when you've successfully ran a 1/4 pass faster than 14.47 seconds. Seems like you and I have pretty much the same mods, well, I've done less to my car. Please provide us with videos, time slips and dyno graphs of all your claims, as that's what I've done in the 1st post of this thread (less the dyno part).
For the record, I never asked anyone how to make my car faster, so I didn't really need your so called "constructive criticism" in the first place. Nor, have I claimed to be a know it all G35 expert, I was simply replying to your expertise...
I wish I could answer your question about the RPM, but I don't remember what it was when I reached the finish line.
To recap,
My 19" wheels/tires shaved off at least 5lbs (in each corner) of rotational mass
-- Your suggestion: My wheels are heavy and make me slower
I have a STOCK 05-06 2.5" crushed bent midpipe, and 3" Megan Racing axleback
-- Your suggestion: Get 2.25" full catback because they flow better, and Megan Racing is crap because you compared my Megan axleback to your Megan coilovers for your GTI. Claimed that people gained power with 2.25" exhaust, and you lost power with an axleback with no dynographs to prove it.
You believe that exhaust cut outs will make me slower.
You have no idea what you're talking about, or know where I plan to do the cutouts. Have you ever dyno'd or ran a car with open header??
I say that there's an art to driving a 5AT in sports mode.
-- Your response: Driving an automatic is a no brainer, and recommend I should get a grounding kit because it cut your shifting time in half according to your butt dyno. Yet, you mentioned that you when you launch, you let the computer do the shifting from 1st to 2nd gear... If it's not that hard, why let the computer do the shifting??
My 3.5 FD is not ideal
If so, why would you think about suggesting an even shorter 3.7 FD? You're just contradicting yourself. I understand that it's hurting my trap speed, but at the same time it's helping my 60' time. Go do the math...
That's all I have to say.
God bless smart people!
Arguing with you is like arguing with a 5th grader. Please post again when you've successfully ran a 1/4 pass faster than 14.47 seconds. Seems like you and I have pretty much the same mods, well, I've done less to my car. Please provide us with videos, time slips and dyno graphs of all your claims, as that's what I've done in the 1st post of this thread (less the dyno part).
For the record, I never asked anyone how to make my car faster, so I didn't really need your so called "constructive criticism" in the first place. Nor, have I claimed to be a know it all G35 expert, I was simply replying to your expertise...
I wish I could answer your question about the RPM, but I don't remember what it was when I reached the finish line.
To recap,
My 19" wheels/tires shaved off at least 5lbs (in each corner) of rotational mass
-- Your suggestion: My wheels are heavy and make me slower
I have a STOCK 05-06 2.5" crushed bent midpipe, and 3" Megan Racing axleback
-- Your suggestion: Get 2.25" full catback because they flow better, and Megan Racing is crap because you compared my Megan axleback to your Megan coilovers for your GTI. Claimed that people gained power with 2.25" exhaust, and you lost power with an axleback with no dynographs to prove it.
You believe that exhaust cut outs will make me slower.
You have no idea what you're talking about, or know where I plan to do the cutouts. Have you ever dyno'd or ran a car with open header??
I say that there's an art to driving a 5AT in sports mode.
-- Your response: Driving an automatic is a no brainer, and recommend I should get a grounding kit because it cut your shifting time in half according to your butt dyno. Yet, you mentioned that you when you launch, you let the computer do the shifting from 1st to 2nd gear... If it's not that hard, why let the computer do the shifting??
My 3.5 FD is not ideal
If so, why would you think about suggesting an even shorter 3.7 FD? You're just contradicting yourself. I understand that it's hurting my trap speed, but at the same time it's helping my 60' time. Go do the math...
That's all I have to say.
God bless smart people!
I am glad that you enjoy taking initial statements from an earlier post.
Honestly, I didn't feel like I would have to explain these things, but hey, why not.
In terms of the 1/4mile, I am currently away from my car for the next week, and the only local track here (I'm out of my home state) is an 1/8th mile. Be sure that I will take it there as soon as I can. I will be back in my home state in early August where I will also take my car to the 1/4mi strip. My guess is that I will be pretty close to 14.47, but I don't bench race, so we'll have to see.
In the end, it's not about me, it's about you.
Regardless, I will dig up my slip of the 14.6. That's no problem. I'm pretty sure I still have it.
Wheels:
I didn't know anything about your wheels, so I used common sense and figured that your larger wheel setup weighs more. If you look at my next post, you would've seen that I acknowledged that your wheels are lighter and that's a good thing.
Exhaust:
Why would Borla sell a system that's 2.25, and I also think that Stillen's system is either 2.25 or 2.38. There are also plenty of 350z owners using 2.5" systems complaining about low end torque loss. I expect to dyno with my Borla TD soon, so then I will be able to tell you the difference.
You believe that exhaust cut outs will make me slower.
You have no idea what you're talking about, or know where I plan to do the cutouts. Have you ever dyno'd or ran a car with open header??
You have no idea what you're talking about, or know where I plan to do the cutouts. Have you ever dyno'd or ran a car with open header??
I didn't dyno it, but it felt SLOW AS ****. It's not a scientific analysis, but it felt considerably slower than how it was before. 0-60 was crap, the whole thing felt like garbage, but please, run open headers on your car and experience it for yourself.
Driving an automatic is a no brainer, and recommend I should get a grounding kit because it cut your shifting time in half according to your butt dyno. Yet, you mentioned that you when you launch, you let the computer do the shifting from 1st to 2nd gear... If it's not that hard, why let the computer do the shifting??
I let the computer do the shifting because it shifts faster on it's own than when you do it in MM. There is less "lag" when it shifts into second. Also, you don't have to worry about possibly hitting the rev limiter on the upshift.
Another way to try is leaving it in "D" from the start, and letting the car shift on its own from 1st to 2nd, and then you push it into MM and continue on your own. Supposedly "D" has better line pressure and thus faster shifts with less lag. I haven't tried this method, but I will at some point.
FD:
I suggested the 3.7 because I think that it will get you closer to peak hp by the end of the run. Right now, you seem to shift into a less than ideal spot on the track and you probably finish before you make peak hp.
With the 3.7 you might get to peak hp faster than before and this gain back some trap speed. You could also be better off with something like a 3.9 or a 4.x, but I certainly don't know.
I enjoy your selective attention. You seem to pick quotes from an earlier reply in hopes of making me look "dumb".
Outside of the wheels, which I didn't even know what they were, what I am saying is correct. I will try to get you my 14.6 slip, and I was going to go to the track anyway, but thanks for the extra motivation.
Last edited by MM_G3520; Jul 11, 2008 at 09:23 PM.
This is why the internet makes you stupid.
Just the fact that you are both posting to a G35 forum means you already have more in common then not. It sounds like you both have very strong opinions but I bet if you met in real life, no one would be calling the other person an idiot. In real life it would be easier to trade stories and insights while still respecting each others viewpoints.
But this is the internet, so disregard what I just wrote and continue flaming each other until one person calls the other a **** or you both get bored and declare yourself the winner.
Just the fact that you are both posting to a G35 forum means you already have more in common then not. It sounds like you both have very strong opinions but I bet if you met in real life, no one would be calling the other person an idiot. In real life it would be easier to trade stories and insights while still respecting each others viewpoints.
But this is the internet, so disregard what I just wrote and continue flaming each other until one person calls the other a **** or you both get bored and declare yourself the winner.
Originally Posted by 03BaseSedan
Your sedan is hot!
I guess it is the internet, so whatever, but I have my opinions.
Maybe hero can enlighten me with his 1/8th mi and trap so that I have something to shoot for when I go to the strip
Maybe hero can enlighten me with his 1/8th mi and trap so that I have something to shoot for when I go to the strip
Last edited by MM_G3520; Jul 13, 2008 at 09:32 PM.
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