Going to the Track
we went to GLD at the last minute friday night since a couple people I knew were running their cars. It was a flawless night to race, low 50s, no wind, hardly anyone racing either. This was the first time I ran the car with a low DA, and it definitely makes a difference. Unfortunatly their 60' timer was down, so I have no idea what my 60' was for that 14.5 run, I assume a 2.1xx. Track prep was pretty bad as usual. Prob wont be going anytime soon but i'll shoot you a PM next time I go.
Rays Forged 19"

Optional 19" G35 forged wheels
<DL><DD>Super-Light Weight Forged Aluminum Alloy <DT>Front <DD>Size: 19x8.0 <DD>Offset: +30mm <DD>Weight: 19 lbs <DD>Tire: 225/40-19 </DD></DL><DL><DT>Rear <DD>Size: 19x8.5 <DD>Offset: +33mm <DD>Weight: 21 lbs <DD>Tire: 245/40-19 </DD></DL>
The 350z V1 Track wheels are just a tad bit lighter.
<TABLE style="TEXT-ALIGN: center" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 border=1><TBODY><TR><TD>Wheel Version </TD><TD>Front Weight </TD><TD>Rear Weight </TD></TR><TR><TD>Standard 17" </TD><TD>23.26 </TD><TD>24.14 </TD></TR><TR><TD>Touring 18" v.1 </TD><TD>26.56 </TD><TD>26.56 </TD></TR><TR><TD>Track 18" v.1 </TD><TD>18.19 </TD><TD>18.62 </TD></TR><TR><TD>Touring 18" v.2 </TD><TD>24.8 </TD><TD>25.8 </TD></TR><TR><TD>Track 18/19" v.2 </TD><TD>21.25 </TD><TD>29.50 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
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It's just not the weight I'm talking about. The wider and lower profile high performance tires tend to weigh more than the OEM 215/55R17s, the wider rubber has a lot more drag because of the width, and most importantly, more weight is pushed further away from the hub which isn't a good thing. All that hurts acceleration, especially 0-40mph times. That's the trade-off for superior handling and looks.
Anywhere in between 1500-2000rpm. I didnt wanna sit there on my brakes for a minute because i dont wanna hurt my car lol so when i did launch a little bit i was more focused on the light. But i remember it being in between 1500-2000rpm.
It is too low and he shouldn't be focusing on the lights at all, it's not important. However, the OEM torque converter won't let you stall any higher than about 2,700rpms and that's really not recommended because it takes about 4 seconds to reach that stall speed. You can stall the TC to around 2400rpms with just a 1 second hold, which is far safer and will result in a clean and rapid launch (low 2.2s, high 2.1s on OEM 17s).
Last edited by DaveB; May 5, 2009 at 11:43 PM.
I didnt go any higher because it feels like im abusing my car lol
Ill try though.
Beebo is sellin me his revup box for $20 and my pop charger filter.
Ill try though.
Beebo is sellin me his revup box for $20 and my pop charger filter.
Braking stalling is a recommended factory procedure to test TC stall speed. It's not going to kill your tranny as long as you don't do it for extended periods (3 seconds or more) or doing it often. Doing it 4 to 5 times every few months at the strip isn't going to kill it. If you drive your car hard, like most us do, then I'd recommend changing out your tranny fluid on a very regular basis (ie drain the 3.1 QTs for the tranny every 15K miles or so).




