Took my Vortech G to the track today...mehhh...
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,901
Likes: 2
From: Puerto Rico
Today I pressure tested my car and my BPV was leaking pretty good. Turns out it blew the o-ring behind the poppet valve. I put it back to how it should go and in the very first WOT run it blew back again. I guess it's toast....who uses an o-ring in a BPV anyways? LOL.
I don't know if this will solve my problem but it surely is a problem.
I don't know if this will solve my problem but it surely is a problem.
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,901
Likes: 2
From: Puerto Rico
I put down 349whp on the 3.12" pulley. My tune is pretty much perfect, but with this leak I've discovered ( which apparently has been there since the beginning ) everything changes now.
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,901
Likes: 2
From: Puerto Rico
According to my gauge I hit 10psi at almost 7K on the 3.12". But I'm not even sure if my gauge is accurate...it's not exactly an expensive tool ( prosport gauges = $40...weeee ).
I mean, I could be loosing 2psi of boost....and 2psi could be 20whp which is significant. I dunno....I'll find out I guess.
I mean, I could be loosing 2psi of boost....and 2psi could be 20whp which is significant. I dunno....I'll find out I guess.
A few things:
1) 91 degree temps with most likely 40% to 50% humidity (wet for a 90 day) isn't doing you any favors. That right there is a solid .3 and 2mph if not more.
2) 20 rims. Again, they're killing you, especially in the first 330' which is the most critical to drag racing. Those 20s are probably sucking out .2-.3 seconds and 2mph. If you want to be quick at the strip, you need to run the correct wheels and tires. I'd suggest picking up a set of 16X8 300ZX rims (they're light) and mount some DRs, but keep the tire height under 26". Air up your front 20s to 45psi. I don't know what brake package your coupe has, but I've got a set of Mazda Millenia 15X7 rims with 225/50 DRs on them. The entire wheel/tire package weighs 35lbs or 20lbs less than stock. The super short tires (24.5") would bring the effective rear gear ratio with my 3.54 swap to around a 3.75. I haven't run this setup yet because I want to get my ECU flashed for a raised limiter.
3) A Vortech SC creates power as the rpms rise. It's a great setup for a linear and flexible powerband. It's not good at delivering low end power. The power builds in a very linear fashion. The more rpm, the more the power increases therefore your launch isn't going to improve much because below 3500rpms, you're likely only making 15whp/15wtq more.
If you want to improve your car's 1/4 mile time and launch, you need to do the following:
1) DRs with lightweight rims, preferably with shorter tires to get some more torque multiplication.
2) Add a higher stall torque converter. Again, it increases torque multiplication....dramatically. You'll also be able to launch higher.
3) Run in sub 75 degree conditions. Anything higher is a waste of time.
Do all this and you'll be deep in the 12s. I'd say 12.5s-12.7s@108-110.
1) 91 degree temps with most likely 40% to 50% humidity (wet for a 90 day) isn't doing you any favors. That right there is a solid .3 and 2mph if not more.
2) 20 rims. Again, they're killing you, especially in the first 330' which is the most critical to drag racing. Those 20s are probably sucking out .2-.3 seconds and 2mph. If you want to be quick at the strip, you need to run the correct wheels and tires. I'd suggest picking up a set of 16X8 300ZX rims (they're light) and mount some DRs, but keep the tire height under 26". Air up your front 20s to 45psi. I don't know what brake package your coupe has, but I've got a set of Mazda Millenia 15X7 rims with 225/50 DRs on them. The entire wheel/tire package weighs 35lbs or 20lbs less than stock. The super short tires (24.5") would bring the effective rear gear ratio with my 3.54 swap to around a 3.75. I haven't run this setup yet because I want to get my ECU flashed for a raised limiter.
3) A Vortech SC creates power as the rpms rise. It's a great setup for a linear and flexible powerband. It's not good at delivering low end power. The power builds in a very linear fashion. The more rpm, the more the power increases therefore your launch isn't going to improve much because below 3500rpms, you're likely only making 15whp/15wtq more.
If you want to improve your car's 1/4 mile time and launch, you need to do the following:
1) DRs with lightweight rims, preferably with shorter tires to get some more torque multiplication.
2) Add a higher stall torque converter. Again, it increases torque multiplication....dramatically. You'll also be able to launch higher.
3) Run in sub 75 degree conditions. Anything higher is a waste of time.
Do all this and you'll be deep in the 12s. I'd say 12.5s-12.7s@108-110.
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,901
Likes: 2
From: Puerto Rico
I'm measuring it at the plenum.
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,901
Likes: 2
From: Puerto Rico
A few things:
1) 91 degree temps with most likely 40% to 50% humidity (wet for a 90 day) isn't doing you any favors. That right there is a solid .3 and 2mph if not more.
2) 20 rims. Again, they're killing you, especially in the first 330' which is the most critical to drag racing. Those 20s are probably sucking out .2-.3 seconds and 2mph. If you want to be quick at the strip, you need to run the correct wheels and tires. I'd suggest picking up a set of 16X8 300ZX rims (they're light) and mount some DRs, but keep the tire height under 26". Air up your front 20s to 45psi. I don't know what brake package your coupe has, but I've got a set of Mazda Millenia 15X7 rims with 225/50 DRs on them. The entire wheel/tire package weighs 35lbs or 20lbs less than stock. The super short tires (24.5") would bring the effective rear gear ratio with my 3.54 swap to around a 3.75. I haven't run this setup yet because I want to get my ECU flashed for a raised limiter.
3) A Vortech SC creates power as the rpms rise. It's a great setup for a linear and flexible powerband. It's not good at delivering low end power. The power builds in a very linear fashion. The more rpm, the more the power increases therefore your launch isn't going to improve much because below 3500rpms, you're likely only making 15whp/15wtq more.
If you want to improve your car's 1/4 mile time and launch, you need to do the following:
1) DRs with lightweight rims, preferably with shorter tires to get some more torque multiplication.
2) Add a higher stall torque converter. Again, it increases torque multiplication....dramatically. You'll also be able to launch higher.
3) Run in sub 75 degree conditions. Anything higher is a waste of time.
Do all this and you'll be deep in the 12s. I'd say 12.5s-12.7s@108-110.
1) 91 degree temps with most likely 40% to 50% humidity (wet for a 90 day) isn't doing you any favors. That right there is a solid .3 and 2mph if not more.
2) 20 rims. Again, they're killing you, especially in the first 330' which is the most critical to drag racing. Those 20s are probably sucking out .2-.3 seconds and 2mph. If you want to be quick at the strip, you need to run the correct wheels and tires. I'd suggest picking up a set of 16X8 300ZX rims (they're light) and mount some DRs, but keep the tire height under 26". Air up your front 20s to 45psi. I don't know what brake package your coupe has, but I've got a set of Mazda Millenia 15X7 rims with 225/50 DRs on them. The entire wheel/tire package weighs 35lbs or 20lbs less than stock. The super short tires (24.5") would bring the effective rear gear ratio with my 3.54 swap to around a 3.75. I haven't run this setup yet because I want to get my ECU flashed for a raised limiter.
3) A Vortech SC creates power as the rpms rise. It's a great setup for a linear and flexible powerband. It's not good at delivering low end power. The power builds in a very linear fashion. The more rpm, the more the power increases therefore your launch isn't going to improve much because below 3500rpms, you're likely only making 15whp/15wtq more.
If you want to improve your car's 1/4 mile time and launch, you need to do the following:
1) DRs with lightweight rims, preferably with shorter tires to get some more torque multiplication.
2) Add a higher stall torque converter. Again, it increases torque multiplication....dramatically. You'll also be able to launch higher.
3) Run in sub 75 degree conditions. Anything higher is a waste of time.
Do all this and you'll be deep in the 12s. I'd say 12.5s-12.7s@108-110.
Yeah, something doesn't sound right, especially if you're numbers are only 349whp.
I'm running virtually an identical set-up and i'm running low 12's consistently. Best time so far was a 12.1s, but typically run around 12.3-12.5.
Funny how you say you don't chirp. Thats good i think. My biggest problem is getting traction in 2nd and 3rd gear because i'm spinning both those when i shift near redline with full boost.
Yeah, off the line i get beat by everyone and their mother, but once i'm going, the thing takes off. I'm running the 3.12 pulley also, but i max out at about 11psi (even though its technically a 10 lb pulley)
I'm running virtually an identical set-up and i'm running low 12's consistently. Best time so far was a 12.1s, but typically run around 12.3-12.5.
Funny how you say you don't chirp. Thats good i think. My biggest problem is getting traction in 2nd and 3rd gear because i'm spinning both those when i shift near redline with full boost.
Yeah, off the line i get beat by everyone and their mother, but once i'm going, the thing takes off. I'm running the 3.12 pulley also, but i max out at about 11psi (even though its technically a 10 lb pulley)
I say shoot yourself...
Vortech G and only 13.5, thats gotta be extremely depressing...you gotta be at least in the mid 12s
A stock Stang GT is faster than your Vortech G, ouch
Vortech G and only 13.5, thats gotta be extremely depressing...you gotta be at least in the mid 12s
A stock Stang GT is faster than your Vortech G, ouch
OP, before you let these guys depress you with their comments, keep in mind that track conditions, location, temps, etc are big factors in getting quick times. i think you know this already, but some folks are just piling on for no reason. anyway, if you haven't already, you should take a look at the posts in this thread, starting at #25, before you get hung up on comparing your numbers to folks in different locations:
https://g35driver.com/forums/drag/31...ml#post4802024
https://g35driver.com/forums/drag/31...ml#post4802024
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,901
Likes: 2
From: Puerto Rico
OP, before you let these guys depress you with their comments, keep in mind that track conditions, location, temps, etc are big factors in getting quick times. i think you know this already, but some folks are just piling on for no reason. anyway, if you haven't already, you should take a look at the posts in this thread, starting at #25, before you get hung up on comparing your numbers to folks in different locations:
https://g35driver.com/forums/drag/31...ml#post4802024
https://g35driver.com/forums/drag/31...ml#post4802024
Dumb question, but are you shifting too early?
With the Vortech, you want to just about redline that baby where maximum boost is developed. If you shift too early, you won't get the benefit of the Vortech.
Actually, you did say you had an automatic right? Is the automatic transmission shifting too early?
With the Vortech, you want to just about redline that baby where maximum boost is developed. If you shift too early, you won't get the benefit of the Vortech.
Actually, you did say you had an automatic right? Is the automatic transmission shifting too early?