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Racing your G and Weight Loss

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Old Jun 22, 2005 | 09:27 AM
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From: Philly
Unhappy Racing your G and Weight Loss

So, if you are a racer this weekend are you going nuts and taking the owners manual and all the mats out, clearing out the jack and spare or are you racing your car is it is when you drive it everyday?

Will you carefully fill your tank this week as to not have more than 1/8 or 1/4 tank of gas?? If you are into that, don't forget to use all your wiper fluid and clean out the center console. All that stuff weighs alot added up. Get the map outta there too and the battery cover and engine cover. Take out the backseats if don't mind scratching them up a bit and empty those map pockets out. It's funny, I was thinking of doing all this and then I thought...those old Turanza's are going to need MORE weight in the back to get traction. Not sure what the best approach is...
 
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Old Jun 22, 2005 | 11:10 AM
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From: Philly burbs
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Old Jun 22, 2005 | 10:22 PM
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From: Philly
what did I miss
 
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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 05:22 PM
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Honestly, when I'm at the track, I'm there to run my best. I yank out the more significantly unless crap like the spare, toolbag, and excess articles in the trunk and I try to maintain a 1/4-1/3 tank of fuel. I've removed the passenger seat in my Maxima (40lbs), but I've never removed any other interior parts. I'll probably never remove the passenger seat in the G unless I'm tetering on 13s. I don't remove things like CDs, owner manuals, etc because that stuff can't be more than 5-10lbs. I did weigh my rubber floor mats and trunk mats. That's 30lbs!!! I'll be yanking those out next time I run.

As for traction, I've never had a problem at the track. My car will barely chirp a tire because surface is usually prepped decently and I put the car in the "grooves" where the big dawgs run from. The grooves have the glue. I wish my car would spin a little because when it hooks so hard, you can really feel it bog down initially. I'll probably air my tires up to around 44 psi ext time out in hopes of inducing a little spin.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 10:29 AM
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The rears to 44? You and Bossho are from the same school eh? I was going to go for about 38 rear and 40-45 front but now I'm thinking otherwise. I was at 40 in the rears last time and brake torqued to about 1900-2000 and got great results but these tires have 26k on them and are squealing like pigs when I take off at all anywhere.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 11:35 AM
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From: Philly burbs
Originally Posted by SixFive
what did I miss
Nothing, sorry. I posted a response asking what racing purpose this was for, then realized we were in the Drag forum and deleted the content. Score me low for reading comp!
 
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 11:41 AM
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From: Philly
Are you going saturday to Raceway Park?
 
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by SixFive
The rears to 44? You and Bossho are from the same school eh? I was going to go for about 38 rear and 40-45 front but now I'm thinking otherwise. I was at 40 in the rears last time and brake torqued to about 1900-2000 and got great results but these tires have 26k on them and are squealing like pigs when I take off at all anywhere.
On my only time out drag racing this car, I had 32psi in the rears and like I said it wouldn't even chirp the crappy Turanzas. The reason I want to induce some spin is so that I quickly get over that nasty initial bog that occurs from 2500-3200rpms in 1st.

Another thing I'm going to try is a using a "vacuum stall" or something like that. It's something I've read about on LS1.com and the Scooby sites. Stage the car, put the car in neutral with your foot on the brake, rap the throttle a bit to create a vacuum loss and you should feel the brake pedal drop a bit, then place the car back into gear. The brakes should be biting a bit harder now and may give you the opportunity to stall up the converter a bit higher for a harder launch. I haven't tried this so I don't know if it will help or not.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 01:38 PM
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WEll the track is certainly better than the street, but on the street I am breaking loose punching it in 2nd while at 3500 rpm or so while already moving...the tires are just shot. With 95 degree weather forecasted I need to decide what to do.

Either I'll launch at 2000 with 40psi in the rears or I'll go with 36-38 and launch at 2500-2800 - hoping the heat will keep me from spinning too much. My sucess or lack of it will certainly dictate the subsequent run(s) approach.

Do you do a dry burnout?
 
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SixFive
WEll the track is certainly better than the street, but on the street I am breaking loose punching it in 2nd while at 3500 rpm or so while already moving...the tires are just shot. With 95 degree weather forecasted I need to decide what to do.

Either I'll launch at 2000 with 40psi in the rears or I'll go with 36-38 and launch at 2500-2800 - hoping the heat will keep me from spinning too much. My sucess or lack of it will certainly dictate the subsequent run(s) approach.

Do you do a dry burnout?
You'll just have to experiment with the psi. Even on bald A/S rubber, the car should hook assuming the prep is decent. Make sure to get the car in the grooves where the Pro-mod cars line up. The grooves should be pretty visible (usually right in the middle of the lane, look for the rubber). As you already no, avoid the water box at all costs.

As for a burnout, nope. I just do a quick 1 second spin to get the crap off the tires.

If 95 degrees is forecasted, make sure to bring some ice of for the intake manifold. Your car is going to be hating life in that heat. My old VQ was typically .4 seconds and 3mph slower in 90+ degree heat vs running in 50 degree weather.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 10:18 PM
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So will the ice offset that completely? I already had the cooler out! I guess it's quite a timing game to leave the ice on as far down the line onto the track as you can and then doing a fire drill to get the hood closed and belts on...

With .4 loss to heat I'm shooting for a 14.5 at 96. If the ice does the trick maybe I'll get back to 97...hoping ..hoping...
 
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SixFive
So will the ice offset that completely? I already had the cooler out! I guess it's quite a timing game to leave the ice on as far down the line onto the track as you can and then doing a fire drill to get the hood closed and belts on...

With .4 loss to heat I'm shooting for a 14.5 at 96. If the ice does the trick maybe I'll get back to 97...hoping ..hoping...
Ice won't offset it completely. Once that big hunk of metal we call and engine heats up, it's hard to stop the process. Ideally, the best setup would be placing a fan that would blow right across the top of the motor. The movement of air would take away a lot more heat than the ice could plus you won't have the water issue to contend with. It's just a matter of how extreme you want to get. I haven't tried icing the intake manifold on the G so I don't know how much it will help.

Another option you might want to consider is using the NOS brand octane additive. A few months back, SCC magazine tested a bunch of octane increasing additives and the NOS brand actually raised the octane level of 10 gallons of gas by well over 2 points. That's pretty significant and far better than I thought an additive could do. It's also cheaper than running a mix of 100 octane and 92/93 to get 95 or so. I'm going to try the NOS brand next time I go out. I figure with 5 gallons of 92 (highest I can get) and some the octane booster, I may be able to increase octane to around 95 or possibly 96. What really kills these VQs is heat and detonation. The hotter the temps, the more detonation the motor sees, the more timing that gets pulled. Raising the octane a bit will help fight the VQs tendency towards knock.

Either, good luck and post up what you run.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2005 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveB
Another option you might want to consider is using the NOS brand octane additive. A few months back, SCC magazine tested a bunch of octane increasing additives and the NOS brand actually raised the octane level of 10 gallons of gas by well over 2 points. That's pretty significant and far better than I thought an additive could do.
DaveB: This is a far cry from your "expert" opinion in another thread:

https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...=octane+points

Originally Posted by DaveB
Octane booster won't do squat. When they say the booster raises your octane points by 3 to 4, it's not what you think. It's not going to raise 92 octane to 95-96 octane. It's going to raise 92 octane to 92.3-92.4 octane. It's a great marketing ploy on their part.
Getting anyone to believe your B.S. is the best marketing ploy so far....

SixFive: I have put together a couple of cooling tricks/items that may be of interest. PM me if you want pics or descriptions. I have a solution to your problem.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2005 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ChicagoX
DaveB: This is a far cry from your "expert" opinion in another thread:

https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...=octane+points

Getting anyone to believe your B.S. is the best marketing ploy so far....
Hey Tina, it gets rather annoying having you constantly discredit everything I have to say on this Org. It's also quite sad that apparently that this is the only thing you have to offer to this site.

Yes, I stated back in Feb 2005 that octane boosters weren't worth the effort or cost. A few months later in May I read the article in SCC about their test of octane boosters. Most of the boosters did exactly like I said they do....raise octane by less than a full point. The NOS brand on the other hand saw quite a good increase in octane, hence the reason I said, "That's pretty significant and far better than I thought an additive could do."

Guess what, sometimes people are wrong and/or sometimes new data comes out that may change someone's opinion or recommendation. I'm so sorry I didn't go back and update this post Tonight I'll make sure to go through and correct/update every single post I've made. Would that make you feel better. Would that get you off my jock?
 
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Old Jun 27, 2005 | 03:17 PM
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If you are to go back and correct all of the incorrect info you've posted to date, I would call your employer and request a sabbatical.....it's going to take some time.

As far as my contributions go, in the almost 50 threads I started, I've organized events, invented products, helped newbies and posed questions.

Almost 1/3 of your "contributions" consist of whining about a product, vendor, or the G35 in general. You poison this site with your negativity and misinformation. You are lucky nobody snapped their intake bolts after your improper rec, to name one.

I go away for 2 weeks and come back to your litter everywhere......and the worst part is, the more inexperienced members might actually believe you.

BTW, call me Tina to my face....I'll be happy to show you my "Ike"
 
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