Hi all
I am competing next Wednesday night at our local dragstrip.
As all there have never seen a V35 I was hoping to at least post a respectable time for the pride of the 35"s
I know I'll be whipped by the countless R32,s,33,s and 34's and of course the usual fleet of GTR's
So any advice on car setup from those who have run a 35 over the 1/4 would be appreciated.
My car is stock apart from the Aftermarket exhaust.
The driving side I'm OK as my 33 GTS ran 13.2 and R34 GTT Auto ran 13.6 on previous meets.

Regards

 

good luck and throw some nitrous on there just for kicks!!!

 

gut the crap in your trunk like the spare and other stuff in your cabin you dont need...also throw in some high octane gas like 93+ at least..whats the highest octane you can get at your pumps in australia?.

 

leave the spare tire in the back, it keeps the weight biased over the rear tires. an old school trick, remove the front sway bar...it promotes better weight transfer towards the rear. keep your front tires at it's max rated psi, and deflate your tires in increments of 5psi. once you see a worsening of ET, bring back to the previous psi. You could also try icing the plenum between runs.

 

Highest pump fuel we can get is 98+
I'm currently running 95 as I understood there would be little to gain with a NA motor.
Some guys here have found loading crap into the boot lowered their ET's but they were high powered Skylines where traction was more of an issue than saving weight.
What revs are best to launch at to get the right amount of wheelspin rather than bogging down off the line?

 

Make sure that you take out your floor mats and you can remove the fluid in your windshield washer tank. My Z runs lower ET's when I remove the spare and the jack. On the stock tires you can go as low as 27 lb of air but be careful as the car handles a little different as you drop the preasure in the rear tires. Check the preasure after each run as it will go up and you need to ajust it after a couple of runs. Please remember to put the air back into your tires when the races are over for your trip home.

 

95 sounds good enough. Here in vegas we have 91 so I get a lil ping here and there...sucks...some say 3-4K launches are good at the track, but I havent ran my G at the track yet so I would do a search..also like 636 said lower your tire pressure in 5psi increments.

 

I don't know about removing the front sway bar, as I have not done it, but I saw a marked improvement in 60' times when I removed everything in my trunk.

 

the removal of the front swaybar is the link between the body and suspension. removing that link will promote the front suspension to stay in contact with the pavement on acceleration and moving weight back towards the rear of the car. it's pretty old school and it works. another old school trick is if you have lowered your car, try installing just the stock front springs back on, you'll get somewhat of a lowrider stance but what it's doing is preloading the rear suspension with weight.

it doesnt hurt to try. just dont make any aggressive cornering.

 

I don't understand how this works as I'd allways thought that the extent of suspension travel is limited by the shockabsorbers reaching the end of their stroke not the swaybars. Swaybars only limit suspension travel left to right I thought.
Anyway I'll have to take your word for it if you know it works.
On the subject of springs I thought softer std spring in the rear not front would assist weight transfer rearward.
Cheers and thankyou to all for your help.
I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

Disconnecting the front swaybar is a tried-and-true method for assisting weight transfer (it was worth a tenth in my 5.0), but on our cars dosen't seem worth the trouble. If you look at the total amount of suspension travel and the pinion angle, the benefit is minor without swapping to a set of 90/10 jounce/rebound drag shocks in the front.

I would remove everything in your car that isn't bolted down. This includes the headrests and manuals, even the 37 cents in your console.

Bypass the coolant circuit in the plenum (DIY here: http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1) and ice the manifold between runs, too.

Too high an octane also will slow you down rather than speed you up. You should be fine with anything over 91.

As SMZ black and 636 suggested, play with your tire pressures. You'll be surprised what little changes can do to your run.

Last tip: when making changes to your setup, only change one thing per run. This will allow you to truly fine-tune your ride.


Congrats on the purchase, and MAKE US PROUD!

 

Why hasn't anyone mentioned getting a pair of drag radials!!! The stock tires stink as you will get considerable wheel hop coming off the line.

FEATHER THE CLUTCH off the launch. I would say keep it at a lil over 2K and feather it out so you avoid the wheel hop! If you get drag radials you will need to modify the VDC switch so you can do a proper burnout (with 6MT) autos I believe you pull the fuse. Also, with DR's, I think you can launch around 3500 RPM. I think some have launched harder on DR's, but I would be worried about breaking stuff higher then that.

 

Well, I for one thought he was talking about how he could tweak his existing setup.

If you are going for traction, I would leapfrog the DR's and go straight to a slick (Hoosier, Goodyear Racing, M/T) for a jaw-dropping launch.

 

The G35 has plenty of weight in the rear w/o the spare and jack. Not enough torque on the 3.5 to need those extra 50lbs. While you are at it take out the carpet in the trunk. Every little bit helps on the big end of the track. Also if you have a 6mt take the tire pressure on the rears down to about 22-25psi and put 44psi in the fronts. Removing the front sway bar will help also, or just loosen it up a bit. If the air is good and depending on track elevation you should get into the 13's.

 

Last tip: when making changes to your setup, only change one thing per run. This will allow you to truly fine-tune your ride.

Words of wisdom!