New Clutch Kit
#1
06-17-2007 | 06:52 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,717
Likes: 3
From: S.F. Bay Area
New Clutch Kit
I found this thread over at My350Z. Those of you with a 6MT may find this particular mod quite beneficial. 
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=278668
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=278668
#3
06-18-2007 | 12:56 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,717
Likes: 3
From: S.F. Bay Area
Well, I'll be installing this kit, soon. If the clutch catches even half as close as my brother's '04 6MT sedan does, I'll be one happy camper. His clutch engages nearly as soon as you release the clutch.
#4
06-18-2007 | 01:33 AM
Interesting. But man it's going to be tough selling a product you can't see first. It would only be a matter of time before someone posts a pic on the forum to share, so their decision to withhold is not one that I readily understand.
If I understood what the mod is suppose to do correctly, it moves the clutch engagement point closer to the floor?
If so, then one can already achieve this by adjusting the clevis rod. The work is tight, but not hard. I do caution going overboard because it can do possible harm to both your clutch and synchros.
The other possibility is a form of stopper what allows the pedal to bottom prematurely and therefore reducing the dead space. It would have achieved the same as the first method and the same precaution should be exercised.
If I understood what the mod is suppose to do correctly, it moves the clutch engagement point closer to the floor?
If so, then one can already achieve this by adjusting the clevis rod. The work is tight, but not hard. I do caution going overboard because it can do possible harm to both your clutch and synchros.
The other possibility is a form of stopper what allows the pedal to bottom prematurely and therefore reducing the dead space. It would have achieved the same as the first method and the same precaution should be exercised.
Last edited by THX723; 06-18-2007 at 10:53 AM.
#5
06-18-2007 | 10:19 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,717
Likes: 3
From: S.F. Bay Area
Hey Clint,
How are you? Yeah, it's tough to make a decision based on what we all are able to gather. I have read about the self adjustment scenario some 2 years ago. I was and have been reluctant to perform the self adjustment because of some reported bad results and experiences.
Your thinking with regard to this new mod is in line with my brother and I. Hopefully, I'll have something a bit more solid to report by week's end.
How are you? Yeah, it's tough to make a decision based on what we all are able to gather. I have read about the self adjustment scenario some 2 years ago. I was and have been reluctant to perform the self adjustment because of some reported bad results and experiences.
Your thinking with regard to this new mod is in line with my brother and I. Hopefully, I'll have something a bit more solid to report by week's end.
#6
06-18-2007 | 11:29 AM
Clint,
How are you bud? Remember me, we went to ButtonWillow a couple of years ago. This Kit is my design and I've been running it on my car for the past 2 years. The problem with adjusting the threaded rod by the clevis is that it lowers the clutch pedal below a point where the return spring will function properly, which could cause an effect similar to riding your clutch. The only way to damage your synchros with this kit is to not fully depress the clutch.
"disengaged is disengaged".
Terry
How are you bud? Remember me, we went to ButtonWillow a couple of years ago. This Kit is my design and I've been running it on my car for the past 2 years. The problem with adjusting the threaded rod by the clevis is that it lowers the clutch pedal below a point where the return spring will function properly, which could cause an effect similar to riding your clutch. The only way to damage your synchros with this kit is to not fully depress the clutch.
"disengaged is disengaged".Terry
#7
06-18-2007 | 11:35 AM
Originally Posted by andy2434
Hey Clint,
How are you? Yeah, it's tough to make a decision based on what we all are able to gather. I have read about the self adjustment scenario some 2 years ago. I was and have been reluctant to perform the self adjustment because of some reported bad results and experiences.
Your thinking with regard to this new mod is in line with my brother and I. Hopefully, I'll have something a bit more solid to report by week's end.
How are you? Yeah, it's tough to make a decision based on what we all are able to gather. I have read about the self adjustment scenario some 2 years ago. I was and have been reluctant to perform the self adjustment because of some reported bad results and experiences.
Your thinking with regard to this new mod is in line with my brother and I. Hopefully, I'll have something a bit more solid to report by week's end.
It would be interesting to see when someone does get a hold of one. Being that the mod is relatively inexpensive and described as "simple to install", I wouldn't think it'd be anything too involved. It was also mentioned that the mod directly affects the pedal mechanism, so there are only two possible approaches.
1. alter the fulcrum length.
or
2. alter the pedal position.
The 1st approach would be the prefered way. Moving the fulcrum point down the clutch pedal has the effect of increasing the piston-to-pedal travel. More travel per pump essentially. Pedal effort may increase slightly as the result.
The 2nd approach would be the simplest and least expensive route. There are few implementations possible - two that are okay, one very very bad.
Approach 2a
Reduce the initial pedal position (closer to the floor) via adjusting the clevis rod. Piston remains at full deflection when the pedal is out - Good.
Approach 2b
Introduce an adjustable stopper at the bottom of the pedal travel. This has the effect of bringing the floor closer to you (pedal bottoms out sooner). Note: the piston is also at full deflection when pedal is at rest - Good.
Approach 2c
Introduce a stopper at the top of the pedal travel. The has the effect of pre-priming the piston or essentially a pedal that is partially depressed at all time. This is bad because the piston is never allowed to fully contract even when the pedal is fully released. The clutch is potentially never fully engaged as a consequence.
Approach 2a (the method thas been hotly debated on the forum) is okay in my book. However, it is so easy to go over board with it that I don't generally recommend it. The adjustment slack is no more than the "dead space" that was designed and specify by Nissan. Exceeding that amount = possible clutch/synchro wear. Also note if you do adjust it so "dead space" = 0, then you better be damn sure you are hitting the floor each and everytime you shift, to again prevent from clutch/synchro wear. There's a reason why "dead space" was specified - to act as a buffer for human error.
Reduce the initial pedal position (closer to the floor) via adjusting the clevis rod. Piston remains at full deflection when the pedal is out - Good.
Approach 2b
Introduce an adjustable stopper at the bottom of the pedal travel. This has the effect of bringing the floor closer to you (pedal bottoms out sooner). Note: the piston is also at full deflection when pedal is at rest - Good.
Approach 2c
Introduce a stopper at the top of the pedal travel. The has the effect of pre-priming the piston or essentially a pedal that is partially depressed at all time. This is bad because the piston is never allowed to fully contract even when the pedal is fully released. The clutch is potentially never fully engaged as a consequence.
Last edited by THX723; 06-18-2007 at 11:42 AM.
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#8
06-18-2007 | 11:39 AM
Originally Posted by RedondoG
Clint,
How are you bud? Remember me, we went to ButtonWillow a couple of years ago. This Kit is my design and I've been running it on my car for the past 2 years. The problem with adjusting the threaded rod by the clevis is that it lowers the clutch pedal below a point where the return spring will function properly, which could cause an effect similar to riding your clutch. The only way to damage your synchros with this kit is to not fully depress the clutch. "disengaged is disengaged".
Terry
How are you bud? Remember me, we went to ButtonWillow a couple of years ago. This Kit is my design and I've been running it on my car for the past 2 years. The problem with adjusting the threaded rod by the clevis is that it lowers the clutch pedal below a point where the return spring will function properly, which could cause an effect similar to riding your clutch. The only way to damage your synchros with this kit is to not fully depress the clutch.
"disengaged is disengaged".Terry
Looks like we just crossed posted. Yes, I sure remember you ... Mr. NOS!
Great, so I guess you're going w. approach #1?
Stop keeping us in the dark already ... how rude!
Last edited by THX723; 06-18-2007 at 11:45 AM.
#10
06-18-2007 | 11:50 AM
Originally Posted by RedondoG
Nope, this is a variation of approach 2b.
Well, it's certainly a workable design in my book.
Best wishes to you w. successful product launch.
#13
06-21-2007 | 10:30 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,717
Likes: 3
From: S.F. Bay Area
I just got my D-Wolf Kit, today. It works wonders.
https://g35driver.com/forums/reviews/163723-d-wolf-clutch-kit.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/reviews/163723-d-wolf-clutch-kit.html
