Hello Everyone - I have two issues to I need help with. Hope you guys can help me:

1. My brakes squeek like crazy. I hope its not the Rotors. Im hoping its the pads, but im not sure. These are the best pics I can take of the brakes (AP Racing Front, Stocks in the back)











*Yes I KNOW I need a car wash. *

2. After car is hot (lets say after about 1 hour of driving) my clutch reduces length. It goes from full clutch to maybe 1/2 to 1/4. I can put my foot behind the clutch and left it up where it pops back into place, but if I push it in while its doing this, it just goes right back to having 1/2 or 1/4 of a clutch. Its REALLY annoying and i Wonder if Warranty will fix this.

Well Fellas, Help me out with this. My car has 12,000 miles for me to be having these problems already.

Thanks to all of you that reply.

 

well first it looks like your rear rotors are glazed over pretty bad (aggressive driver huh) you might want to have them turned but try to listen where the squeaking is coming from and as far as the clutch mine was doing this and the dealer just bled the clutch and it hasnt happened to me yet has been 2 weeks and it is covered under warr hope this helped

 

swap out your clutch fluid
it's really easy to do, won't take you more than 15 minutes.

do a search. i did a writeup with pictures and stuff but i'm too lazy to find it.

long story short. your clutch fluid is gone if it looks black. it should be clearish.

 

Sh*t I have the same problem with my clutch too after a long traffic drive. And guess what my car is stock too. It is very annoying, I am gonna check with dealer soon.

 

I just had to deal with the clutch pedal problem with a SoCal dealerhip. First attempt: replaced the clutch pedal assembly, result: problem still exist. The dealer technician then stated they need to do a transmission tear down to find the problem (I dont think so, cuz it may be at my cost if they find normal wear $1500) and you know they will. I insisted that the problem was the clutch master cylinder/ slave cylinder. After a lot of argueing with the Sevice Manager, he agreed to change both, Problem solved. It was contaminated hydraulic fluid which damaged the cups inside the master cylinder.

Hope this helps you out.

 

Very possibly the Clutch Slave. It's a real POS on our cars, mounted exposed to the exhaust and CAT heat and poorly shielded from the elements on the transmission.

Sounds like you either have a weak slave cylinder or fluid is very tired. It's super inexpensive to replaced, mine was a wretched mess on the inside with bits of "stuff" floating around, my clutch was doing what you describe, especially when hot. Duh, the slave is inches from the driver's side CAT with a really pathetic heat shield. The line to the slave is inches away from the exhaust and cat, with really questionable heat shielding.

Check out my pics and replacement at:
V35 Clutch Slave Photos

One day I came out to start the car, the clutch went to the floor, and all the fluid was in the driveway. In my case diagnosis was easy. My Z used to do the same thing when it was hot, especially after some hard driving. I think the fluid gets cooked and over time the plunger in the slave deteriorates. Somewhere I have pics of what it looked like apart, not pretty. Good news is it should only set you back about $30 for the part (try MyNismo.com)

HTH

 

BTW, these problems happened at only 20-30k miles or so on my '04, too. My Z, they happened at less than 10k miles. Heat was the common thread...

 

I called the dealership today and made an appointment for next week. I have the same clutch problem. The service dept. is telling me the same thing. They need to do transmission tear down. He kept insisting that clutch is wear and tear stuff. WTF!! I don't want them to touch the transmission if the problems is from master cylindaer/slave cylinder. Do they even know what they are doing at all?? What should I do when I go there?

 

Not sure how to convince them, but if it helps, mine is doing the same thing and here is what has happened so far:

06 6mt coupe, 11k miles
first complained 3 months ago around 6-7k miles
pedal assembly replaced (warranty)
problem still existed, couple months pass before I get back to have it looked at again
clutch replaced (warranty)
problem still existed, car returned to dealer
transmission replaced (warranty)
problem still existed, car returned to dealer
told there was too much 'free play' in pedal, it was adjusted and should work fine now (wtf?)
problem still existed, car returned to dealer
told the slave cylinder needs replacement, on national backorder - no idea if it could be days or weeks to replace

Now I need to decide if I want to pick it up, or keep driving this 07 sedan they have me in. It's nice, but not a sport model so it is boring the sh*t out of me.

BTW - the engine was replaced at 4k miles also for oil consumption by the first owner. He then promptly traded it a thousand miles later when the new engine proved to burn oil as well. I bought the car not knowing this and am now on the 'wait list' for a new engine/block/whatever once Infiniti decides how to fix the friggin' problem - Infiniti claims they have stopped replacing engines in all but the most extreme cases right now while they try to find a solution.

Should have just kept my 06 350z, but my wife bought a two seater so we needed at least one car with a damn backseat!

 

My clutch is sticking about halfway as well, right before the clutch engages... It started about 6months ago at about 30k miles. I have 37k miles on it now.

I took it in yesterday to get it checked out and they also said that they're going to replace the master/slave cylinder, which is, as we all know, on national backorder. They expect it to be in within 7 days.

 

i'm on my way to pick my car back up today. first the replaced the clutch said it didn't fixthe problem so then they replaced the whole transmission. Hopefully It works on the drive back home or i'll be pissed

 

I have the same problem - - I am running AP cross drilled/slotted, fronts and rears...my brakes squeal like crazy. Think I may try some anti-squeal! Paid tooooooo much to change out the pads already!!!

 

Well, so much for helping him with his brakes lol. Is there an easy way to tell where the indicator piece is on our brakes? Im thinkin I need to replace them but is it ok to replace just the pads...or is it best to replace the pads and rotors at the same time? My fronts were already turned (resurfaced) and I was told by Infiniti I only have about 4 to 5k miles of medium driving left on them...but I cant downshift well cuz my clutch is having the same problem. Now I have something to come back to Nissan with and say Fix it!! Thanks all!

 

I've "heard" that the slave cyl was moved inside the case by '06/'07 MY, which means it would be a low volume part unlike the one I've shown, which is common and readily available (but seemingly prone to failure every few years).

If yours however is on the outside of the trans like mine, the idea of it being on local, let alone national backorder is absurd and most likely a delaying tactic.

 

Thinner turned 1x or worn front rotors aren't going to help, but most frequently pads installed w/o compound on the back to reduce squealing/vibration, glazed pads/rotors, or improper pad installation will cause squealing. If the rotors are OEM with 12k miles, I'd pull the pads, clean them up, reassemble with fresh anti-squeal compound. Sometimes people also forget or don't use the anti-squeal shims (thin spacers behind the pads which may be needed for a particular brake+pad combo). Squealing is vibration, like any noise, and it starts with the pads; either contact unevenly, contact and vibrate due to how they were installed, or contact with build-up of dust and road debris between the pad and rotor.

A very low $$$ solution starts with pulling your front wheels, washing away the brake dust, using a can of Brake Cleaner to remove as much crap as you can. Sometimes squealing is just too much dust build-up between the pad and rotor.

Just get your brake work done away from the stealership. I was held up for $500/rotor for OEM replacements for Brembos (front or rear!) or $2000/four rotors. You can easily get quality replacement Brembo rotors or equivalent for your AP for ~$800 full set. I would have laughed if it wasn't so insulting. Charge $500 for a non-vented 11-12 inch rear replacement rotor? $2000 + pads + labor for a brake job? Who pays for this kind of service???