Question about differential oil change
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 312
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I had the same results as far as the metal filings. I wish I had drained it earlier... this was my first change at about 29K. After refilling the differential, I had a small trickle of oil running out of the fill hole and could still see some grey stuff in there.
I put in Valvoilne 80W-90 conventional oil, and I think I'll change it again at my next oil change. Probably with Amsoil 80W-90 (or maybe one more run of conventional oil first) if I can find it... I noticed a shop near my house with a big "Amsoil Sold Here" sign, so assuming their prices are pretty close to the prices in thier online store, I think I'm going to buy a gallon of their 80W-90 synthetic. I don't know why the G35 only specifies that weight, but I want to try it in my truck's manual transmission anyway... I have been having trouble getting with it not going into gear in colder ambient temperatures before the truck warms up.
Heath
I put in Valvoilne 80W-90 conventional oil, and I think I'll change it again at my next oil change. Probably with Amsoil 80W-90 (or maybe one more run of conventional oil first) if I can find it... I noticed a shop near my house with a big "Amsoil Sold Here" sign, so assuming their prices are pretty close to the prices in thier online store, I think I'm going to buy a gallon of their 80W-90 synthetic. I don't know why the G35 only specifies that weight, but I want to try it in my truck's manual transmission anyway... I have been having trouble getting with it not going into gear in colder ambient temperatures before the truck warms up.
Heath
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 365
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The exception is if you track the car regularly, say once per month, then I'd say changing at least once per year or 12K miles.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 365
Likes: 2
Also, you don't do a differential flush. It's just a drain and refill. Get the washers from any Infiniti dealer. You shouldn't need to change the plug unless it's damaged.. Don't forget to make sure you can remove the fill plug BEFORE you remove the drain plug. It would not be good if you couldn't fill the differential after you drained the oil out...
I had the same results as far as the metal filings. I wish I had drained it earlier... this was my first change at about 29K. After refilling the differential, I had a small trickle of oil running out of the fill hole and could still see some grey stuff in there.
I put in Valvoilne 80W-90 conventional oil, and I think I'll change it again at my next oil change. Probably with Amsoil 80W-90 (or maybe one more run of conventional oil first) if I can find it... I noticed a shop near my house with a big "Amsoil Sold Here" sign, so assuming their prices are pretty close to the prices in thier online store, I think I'm going to buy a gallon of their 80W-90 synthetic. I don't know why the G35 only specifies that weight, but I want to try it in my truck's manual transmission anyway... I have been having trouble getting with it not going into gear in colder ambient temperatures before the truck warms up.
Heath
I put in Valvoilne 80W-90 conventional oil, and I think I'll change it again at my next oil change. Probably with Amsoil 80W-90 (or maybe one more run of conventional oil first) if I can find it... I noticed a shop near my house with a big "Amsoil Sold Here" sign, so assuming their prices are pretty close to the prices in thier online store, I think I'm going to buy a gallon of their 80W-90 synthetic. I don't know why the G35 only specifies that weight, but I want to try it in my truck's manual transmission anyway... I have been having trouble getting with it not going into gear in colder ambient temperatures before the truck warms up.
Heath
I'd say changing the trans and diff at 3-4k miles is total overkill. As long as the manual trans/diff oils are changed every 2-3 years or 30K miles, I'm willing to bet the manual trans or diff's will last longer than the car.
The exception is if you track the car regularly, say once per month, then I'd say changing at least once per year or 12K miles.
The exception is if you track the car regularly, say once per month, then I'd say changing at least once per year or 12K miles.
There is a DIY on this forum,
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...id-change.html
Just about every question you have should be answered in this thread.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 365
Likes: 2
he's saying to change it when the car hits 3 or 4k miles, not every 3 to 4k miles!
There is a DIY on this forum,
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...id-change.html
Just about every question you have should be answered in this thread.
There is a DIY on this forum,
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...id-change.html
Just about every question you have should be answered in this thread.
I just got some from the local mazda dealership, they're the cheapest I've been able to find at $1.40 each I think.
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 92
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From: NYC
i guess I will have to drive around some nissan dealerships. My local Infinit delaship does not have them> I know many websited have them but I can tfind the right cat# for them. plus shipping is more than the price of those freaking things!
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 103
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From: Columbia, SC
The part number is 11026-4N200. List $2.53ea.
I tried to get them locally, and the dealership didn't stock them... so I ordered from www.everythinginfiniti.com for $1.90 each with some other parts. That said, I have changed the fluid several times and just reused the old rings. These are not copper and don't seem to crush or change shape... so that's probably why they're not stocked.
I plan on putting the new ones in after I change it enough with cheap-o gear oil to have it run clear after 4K, and then I'll put in a synthetic for a longer change interval.
Heath
I tried to get them locally, and the dealership didn't stock them... so I ordered from www.everythinginfiniti.com for $1.90 each with some other parts. That said, I have changed the fluid several times and just reused the old rings. These are not copper and don't seem to crush or change shape... so that's probably why they're not stocked.
I plan on putting the new ones in after I change it enough with cheap-o gear oil to have it run clear after 4K, and then I'll put in a synthetic for a longer change interval.
Heath
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, SC
Heath
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 28
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From: Calgary, Canada
Ok, I'm about to head down to a local store that sells Amsoil in my city... just to clarify what is needed in terms of fluid for the MT fluid change and rear diff fluid change.
For the Manual transmission fluid change I will need: Amsoil 75W90 GL-4 x 4 quarts?
And for the Rear diff fluid change I'll need: Amsoil SVG 75W90 GL-5 x 2 quarts?
Besides the crush washers, a 10mm Hex ratchet and torque wrench and thats it? Oh and a fluid pump.
For the Manual transmission fluid change I will need: Amsoil 75W90 GL-4 x 4 quarts?
And for the Rear diff fluid change I'll need: Amsoil SVG 75W90 GL-5 x 2 quarts?
Besides the crush washers, a 10mm Hex ratchet and torque wrench and thats it? Oh and a fluid pump.