i bought a clutchmasters stage1 clutch kit for like $230. It works well. Just a little heavier duty than stock.

 

these cars use a dual mass flywheel(stock) they can make noises from time to time.

 

IMO, you should not be driving a 6MT while in a sling.

Also, if you want the car to be in new car condition, buy a new car. Everyone expects their USED car to be in perfect condition, when it is obviously a USED car.

As previous posts/other members have stated, you have no way of knowning how the previous owner drove the car. If your family owns a shop, why don't you replace the slave cylinder yourself?

I'm sure the money you'd spend on parts is less than the time you'd spend at a dealership trying to argue about warranty coverage on your clutch, not to mention the aggravation you'd avoid.

my $.02

Also, as I've stated many many many times before, it is extremely rare for us to sell a used 6MT car; we will make one available roughly every 5 weeks on average. We do take in many 6MT trades, but we simply do not keep them because the car requires too much work to bring up to our standard. After we put the work into it, there would be no way to sell it except at a loss, so it goes straight to auction, where a dealer with a lower standard will purchase it and sell it.

90% of the time, it is because the previous owner drove the car rather abusively. Remember, your average 6MT driver is after performance, not economy as with a civic/yaris etc.

This is also why I refuse to buy myself a MT car used, unless I know the history of the car. (3000GT... owned by an old lady, and I know how she drives after she took me for a spin. Spec miata... well anyone who doesn't know how to drive won't be involved in wheel-to-wheel racing. MR-2... tranny was replaced very quickly after I bought it)

 

i agree to a certain extent...
1.) i do not work at my family owned shop. and it is often difficult to schedule in a car that is ours due to the fact that they will not be making much commission off the job.
2.) we take two hits..one is the parts for cost from my pocket, and the 2nd is the hit from having my car on the rack as opposed to another job paying a profit.

3.) so what happens when the pedal sticks again and roast another clutch? what happens if my gf drives the car and isnt quick enough to slam on the brakes uphil when the pedal sticks to the ground.

the point is...the clutch is a bi-product of the pedal being stuck so often.
the pedal is a defect. however this is what the dealer claimed.

The pedal sticks because the clutch splines are worn out .

 

Make that case to your dealer. If that is not successful, try another dealer. Perhaps try contacting Infiniti corporate and see if they can help; they usually do if you throw a big enough stink.

Re: your shop: can't you schedule in after hours? Never hurts to learn to DIY

I may work at a dealership, but I do virtually all the work on my cars myself.

 

Mike..i cant change over the clutch, no problem..but i dont have the time to do it. Plus, having a DEALER install it vs a local shop is two different things...regardless if i own the shop. Mechanic quality is alot higher plus if they mess something up, its the dealers wallet and not my family's.

Does that not sound like a good case? i understand if i hotrod my g35 all the time it will burn up, but im still worried about the damn pedal

 

The biggest thing here is being able to reproduce the issue with a dealer rep inside the car. I know that it happens sporratically, but we need to be able to reproduce it to be able to make a case with Corporate to have it warrantied for you.

LMK if I can do anything to help.

 

So what if i catch it on Video? cuz i can keep a camera in my car...i can even bottle of some of the clutch smell in a jar haha =)

i told the guy this, but he says its from wear and tear of the clutch spindles and is a sign that the clutch was going out..since the spindle didnt push back the bearing with enough force...

 

so i have some more news...the car started doing it right after i left...i took a video and even got to bring it back to the dealership...

the only thing he could say was that the splines on the clutch pressure plate must be worn and not pushing the throwout bearing with enough force. and that the clucth engages within the first inch or so..and that the pedal sticking in the first 3-4" from the top is not even touching the clutch engagement and could not possible wear the clutch out...this is as he sneezes from the burnt clutch smell coming from my car.


it sticks alot further down when you are actually driving it...

 

I can't see the video at work, but I can't see a pressure plate wearing out that fast under normal use.

How long have you owned this car?

 

since last july. only one other owner...let me try a different uploader

 

again its only minor as per the video when im stopped with the car off...when im driving its alot further down

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m...rent=09g35.flv

 

Photobucket wins, unblocked at work

Hmm... reminds me of the clutch pedal not returning when I was modifying the slave cylinder on my Honda. The clutch stick is always there? It sticks, even if you pump the clutch many many times to build pressure?

Has the system been bled completely (and properly)? A potential cause could be excess water in your clutch lines (which use brake fluid), and the water is boiling and turning into vapor, which causes a (rather large) bubble in your lines.

 

damn...i remember when my clutch acted up like your video the dealer thought i was high or something. till i showed them the video i made they quickly changed there mind and were going to replace it, but them my car got totaled just my $0.02

 

soo anyways.. im not sure what to do now...they dealer still is saying its the clutch pressure plates fingers and not the pedal sticking...

i guess my last option is to call customer service...