:: Car Tech Nerds, Question About Lightweight Flywheels ::
#61
03-13-2009, 02:05 PM
#64
03-13-2009, 03:42 PM
http://www.350zmod.com/Fluidampr-Har...d%20640902.htm
GeePasta on this site installed one and had lots of good reviews regarding the mod.
#65
07-20-2011, 11:17 PM
Registered User
I'm certainly no engineer, but I am a machinest. That being said I have a different perspective than an engineer, and it works amazingly well when you pair the two. I dont really follow the formula's, but most engineers dont understand actually making something. I work with mechanincal engineers (not in the auto industry unfortunately) on a daily basis and our combined knowledge works great.
I've owned a couple honda's and have built some pretty sick NA motors, but this is my first REAL car =) One motor I built had a knife edge crank, titanium rods, racing pistons, racing flywheel and 4 puck clutch, and UR UDP's. Made for great lap times around PIR, horrible launches at the drag strip, and unruley street driving.
My take on a lightweight flywheel is it requires less time for the flywheel to change momentum, providing a faster response from decelerating to accelerating and vice versa. Great situation for a race track where your either accelerating or decellerating, not so much when your in town trying to maintain a given speed on a public street.
Correct me if I'm wrong (and be gentle, I'm just trying to understand here...) I think that same principal applies to just about everything after your crank. The only other benefit I see is curb weight, or in the grand scheme of things, power-weight ratio.
So your realized gains are not on a dyno or 1/4 mile times, but in lap times or your very fun windy commute to work. Where I live I wouldn't even consider going down that path with my G, but I might if I were driving a fun road to work every day, or spent alot of time doing auto cross.
As far as balancing is concerned (I run a mill with a 12k spindle which requires balanced tooling to exceed that RPM), each component is balanced on its own. When you balance a motor, they balance the crank by itself, the pistons and rods are all machined to weigh exactly the same as to not throw off the balance. The flywheel and crank pulley are also balanced as individual units. The drill spots on the pulley are balancing cuts to balance the pulley itself or weight reduction. If you were to balance each component, the overall balance remains the same.
The harmonic dampener on the OEM pulley should do its job, thats not to say removing that will damage your motor or reduce the life of it, but theoretically it should. I personally wouldn't remove it, but again I'm not interested in changing the momentum shift in my car, I'm very please with how it currently drives.
Anyways, I hope my perception on the topic helps. I've spent the last 4 hours reading different threads. It seems everyone is looking for Dyno increases, but you always gotta look at what your doing with the car. A big brake kit doesnt produce HP or TQ, generally adds to curb weight, but somehow it quickens lap times on most tracks....
Ryan
I've owned a couple honda's and have built some pretty sick NA motors, but this is my first REAL car =) One motor I built had a knife edge crank, titanium rods, racing pistons, racing flywheel and 4 puck clutch, and UR UDP's. Made for great lap times around PIR, horrible launches at the drag strip, and unruley street driving.
My take on a lightweight flywheel is it requires less time for the flywheel to change momentum, providing a faster response from decelerating to accelerating and vice versa. Great situation for a race track where your either accelerating or decellerating, not so much when your in town trying to maintain a given speed on a public street.
Correct me if I'm wrong (and be gentle, I'm just trying to understand here...) I think that same principal applies to just about everything after your crank. The only other benefit I see is curb weight, or in the grand scheme of things, power-weight ratio.
So your realized gains are not on a dyno or 1/4 mile times, but in lap times or your very fun windy commute to work. Where I live I wouldn't even consider going down that path with my G, but I might if I were driving a fun road to work every day, or spent alot of time doing auto cross.
As far as balancing is concerned (I run a mill with a 12k spindle which requires balanced tooling to exceed that RPM), each component is balanced on its own. When you balance a motor, they balance the crank by itself, the pistons and rods are all machined to weigh exactly the same as to not throw off the balance. The flywheel and crank pulley are also balanced as individual units. The drill spots on the pulley are balancing cuts to balance the pulley itself or weight reduction. If you were to balance each component, the overall balance remains the same.
The harmonic dampener on the OEM pulley should do its job, thats not to say removing that will damage your motor or reduce the life of it, but theoretically it should. I personally wouldn't remove it, but again I'm not interested in changing the momentum shift in my car, I'm very please with how it currently drives.
Anyways, I hope my perception on the topic helps. I've spent the last 4 hours reading different threads. It seems everyone is looking for Dyno increases, but you always gotta look at what your doing with the car. A big brake kit doesnt produce HP or TQ, generally adds to curb weight, but somehow it quickens lap times on most tracks....
Ryan
#66
07-21-2011, 01:28 AM
^^ My thoughts exactly regarding clutch/flywheels. I just went back to stock DM flywheel + JWT disk and oh boy, it's _night and day_ compared to my 13lb SM flywheel + 6-puck combo. You are right the car becomes very unruly, even just coasting sometimes with light on/off throttle you can feel the gear lash. None of that with the OEM flywheel... The ONLY thing I notice in terms of performance is how fast I can rev match. Actual WHP remains absolutely unchanged.
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MyGeeeee35 (07-21-2011)
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