Difference between 3.3 and 3.5 gears when installed
#1
Difference between 3.3 and 3.5 gears when installed
Hey guys i installed 3.5 gears a couple weeks ago. Im thinking that this was actually a 3.3 because i didnot feel any gains. I want to verify this without taking the pumpkin apart. Does anyone know the best way i could check this? It would be a great help. I want to know ASAP, so i can contact the seller.
Some info:
After i installed the gears my rpms are exactly 2875 at 80mph. Im thinking that a 3.3 should get this.
Part numbers arent any help because the numbers on the pumpkin are just the case number.
Some info:
After i installed the gears my rpms are exactly 2875 at 80mph. Im thinking that a 3.3 should get this.
Part numbers arent any help because the numbers on the pumpkin are just the case number.
#2
I'm still wondering why anyone would do a 3.5 on the automatics. Your gearing with the 3.5 FD is still weaker than a stock 6MT.
IMO, for 5AT's a 3.7+ is a must.
Anyhow, if you went from 3.3 to 3.5's, your gearing should still be a little shorter and noticeable at highway speeds. You could use a gearing calculator to know where you should be at.
IMO, for 5AT's a 3.7+ is a must.
Anyhow, if you went from 3.3 to 3.5's, your gearing should still be a little shorter and noticeable at highway speeds. You could use a gearing calculator to know where you should be at.
#3
Hey thanks for your help. I am eventually gonna go to 3.7. Just dont have the cash for it right now man.
Where can i find this gearing calculator? on google?
Where can i find this gearing calculator? on google?
I'm still wondering why anyone would do a 3.5 on the automatics. Your gearing with the 3.5 FD is still weaker than a stock 6MT.
IMO, for 5AT's a 3.7+ is a must.
Anyhow, if you went from 3.3 to 3.5's, your gearing should still be a little shorter and noticeable at highway speeds. You could use a gearing calculator to know where you should be at.
IMO, for 5AT's a 3.7+ is a must.
Anyhow, if you went from 3.3 to 3.5's, your gearing should still be a little shorter and noticeable at highway speeds. You could use a gearing calculator to know where you should be at.
#4
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#8
if your rpms are the same now as they were prior to the swap, then the FD is probably the same.
If you have not noticed any increase in acceleration - the FD is probably the same.
If it is 3.3, chances are it has open diff... jack the car up from the pumpkin so both wheels are off the ground and turn one side - if the other side turns opposite direction you either have open diff or Quaife. Its not likely that you have Quaife unless you spent well over 1K for the whole thing. If it is open diff, it is definitely 3.3 FD because no LSD (that I'm aware of) will work with 3.3 ring & pinion.
When I had 3.3 the car would be at 3K rmp at 80mph... with 3.7 its at 3250 at 80mph.
FWIW most ppl I've seen post 3K rmp at 80 with 3.3
What car did the pumpkin come off? MT or AT?
If you have not noticed any increase in acceleration - the FD is probably the same.
If it is 3.3, chances are it has open diff... jack the car up from the pumpkin so both wheels are off the ground and turn one side - if the other side turns opposite direction you either have open diff or Quaife. Its not likely that you have Quaife unless you spent well over 1K for the whole thing. If it is open diff, it is definitely 3.3 FD because no LSD (that I'm aware of) will work with 3.3 ring & pinion.
When I had 3.3 the car would be at 3K rmp at 80mph... with 3.7 its at 3250 at 80mph.
FWIW most ppl I've seen post 3K rmp at 80 with 3.3
What car did the pumpkin come off? MT or AT?
#9
I thought you wanted wider/better tires?... I was selling you a set of excellent condition wider Kumhos for an outstanding price. Why are you concerned with more acceleration from shorter gears with those tires? Take care of the basics before wasting money on other stuff.
#11
I just bought rpm 505. 275/35/19 in the back, 245/30/19 in the front. tires and wheels are also been take care off
#13
The pumpkin has vlsd, both wheels turn in the same direction. Its a 3.3. I will contact the seller and let him know asap.
if your rpms are the same now as they were prior to the swap, then the FD is probably the same.
If you have not noticed any increase in acceleration - the FD is probably the same.
If it is 3.3, chances are it has open diff... jack the car up from the pumpkin so both wheels are off the ground and turn one side - if the other side turns opposite direction you either have open diff or Quaife. Its not likely that you have Quaife unless you spent well over 1K for the whole thing. If it is open diff, it is definitely 3.3 FD because no LSD (that I'm aware of) will work with 3.3 ring & pinion.
When I had 3.3 the car would be at 3K rmp at 80mph... with 3.7 its at 3250 at 80mph.
FWIW most ppl I've seen post 3K rmp at 80 with 3.3
What car did the pumpkin come off? MT or AT?
If you have not noticed any increase in acceleration - the FD is probably the same.
If it is 3.3, chances are it has open diff... jack the car up from the pumpkin so both wheels are off the ground and turn one side - if the other side turns opposite direction you either have open diff or Quaife. Its not likely that you have Quaife unless you spent well over 1K for the whole thing. If it is open diff, it is definitely 3.3 FD because no LSD (that I'm aware of) will work with 3.3 ring & pinion.
When I had 3.3 the car would be at 3K rmp at 80mph... with 3.7 its at 3250 at 80mph.
FWIW most ppl I've seen post 3K rmp at 80 with 3.3
What car did the pumpkin come off? MT or AT?
#14
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