So... My problem is now like buttsie's. I tried bleeding several different ways but finally decided I busted my master cylinder when I bleed it dry. I ordered one but Rock Auto has been unusually inefficient and am still waiting for the part. In the meantime, I replaced my slave just in case. I took my master off and took it apart. Even though I had pumped several reservoirs' worth of fluid from the bleeder up, the master was pretty nasty inside. The spring was rusty and some dirty fluid came out of there. I cleaned it all out, regreased the inside and put it together and remounted. I filled my entire system from the bottom. Now, logic tells me, if I'm putting the fluid in slowly from the bottom, all the bubbles should be gone with it. Anyway, after all that, my pedal still has NO resistance and will only return about an inch from the bottom when pushed all the way out. Any suggestions?

 

So, 88irocvert, I got my clutch working again. I'd like to take the credit for it, but my uncle is the one who figured it out. The sad thing is, that it only took him 2 seconds of looking at my slave cylinder to realize why I'm not getting any pressure. And when he said why, I felt pretty stupid because it's just common sense.

The problem is the way the slave is designed. Since the bleeder valve is on the bottom, it is extremely difficult to force the air out, because all of the air rises to the top of the cylinder. He recommended that I should unmount the slave, leave all lines connected, but flip the cylinder so that the bleeder valve is pointed up, instead of down. From there, start the bleeding procedure. Now, one thing that is very important, you must find a way when bleeding to prevent the slave cylinder from over-extending it's piston because you'll blow the seals on it if you don't (this wouldn't happen normally because it usually extends till it reaches the fork). I was going to use a c-clamp but all of them have flat cups, so they wont balance on the nipple of the slave. Instead, I used a piece of metal strapping and inserted the nipple into one of the holes. I then compressed the slave about half-way, wrapped the strapping around the cylinder and then quickly put a nut and bolt through part of the strapping before the piston could uncompress fully. Once I did this and restarted the bleeding procedure (with the help of someone gently pressing on the pedal) I was done in about 15 minutes. After I finished, I just flipped the cylinder back-over inserted it into the fork and remounted it. Done.

Let me know if this helps... Also, by the sounds of your description of your MC, I think you did the right thing ordering a new one.

Good luck!

 

my clutch was snapping to floor just as shown on the youtube video except my problem was different. theres a bolt in the tranni that had a pivot head on the end of it. this is used to hold the clutch fork in place and so that when the clutch is engaged it could pivot and push the bearing to the pressure plate. my bolt snapped due to a bad pressure plate! another symptom is that clutch fluid will leak out of the slave cylinder, but the slave cylinder is NOT bad! i have replaced the bold and added a stage 2 clutch and it is good as new!

 

i have the same identicle problem as youu.... did you happen to figure out what was the problem? thanks in adance.... i need to get my car back on the road :s

 

You must observe grasshopper

 

Yess the clutch fork pivot bolt busted off so there was no pressure in the clutch and it would snap to the floor, u have to drop or atleast split open the tranny to access the bolt and take the old bolt out and replace for a new one i think i paid for a new bolt from the dealer for 11$ you might as well change your clutch while your there

 

Was having some trouble bleeding the clutch fluid completely after replacing the clutch master and slave cylinders. Came upon this thread after doing a Google search. Unbolting the slave cylinder and bleeding with the bleed screw oriented at the top of the slave cylinder did the trick. Thanks!