my g may need a new clutch. has anyone gotten away with just sanding the dual mass flywheel and keeping it?

wanna keep dual mass but that ****er is expensive new!

 

Flywheels must be totally flat, check our tech section but I believe they can't be resurfaced. Sand paper won't get it 'er done....
Gary

 

Correct. Stock ones are dual massed and cant be resurfaced.

 

yikes. im just hesitant to get a single mass as i hear nothing but negative things about them...any thoughts on what direction i should go? bite the bullet?

 

Its preference. I have the single 16 pound and it chatters. You get used to it quick or just keep the clutch in at stops.

 

yeah i have the act street light… 16lbs… it chatters from 1250-1750 rpms when accelerating, and a little bit at idle. if you can bare that, they are well worth it. my car dosnt hang in the revs as long, and drives smoother because the engine matches the revs quicker thn stock… i would never go back to stock...

 

nic, what is the best clutch kit with flywheel if I plan on keeping things stock?

 

well if you want to keep it stock you would go with the OEM clutch and flywheel.
but i think i understand what you are really asking. it sounds like you would like to keep a similar to stock feel and driveability. I went for the ACT HDSS organic clutch kit wit the ACT street light flywheel. the clutch feel is very smooth and liniar. the pedal feel is a little bit heavier than the stock but nothing that i didnt get use to within the first day. the pedal feel is also more springy than the stock… (the stock pedal felt too mushy) Overall the engagement is very smooth and once the clutch engages, it can hold a good amount of torq, unlike the stock clutch. The lightweight flywheel is probably the best thing i have done to my car yet. i find it easier to rev match, the car dosnt hang in the revs, causing excessive clutch use when shifting. and torq gain in the top end is noticeabe. less rotational mass=more energy put to the ground, and the engine climbes through the revs quicker. i would hesitate to say that i gained a significant ammount "power" but i find the gains to be noticeable.
The Downside to the ACT stuff: CHATTER. if i were to put my car in 4th gear under 25 mph and give it gas… it sounds like a cement mixer. initially i was like but after time i just got use to stayin in 3rd until i reach an adequate speed. this issue relates the the event i noted earlier where between 1250-1750 rpms the chatter is noticeable when in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear at low speeds. Atleast ACT sent a note with the flywheel telling me that this was going to happen, and even described it to me just as i described it to you ^. they said that the chatter also had no side effect where the drivetrain would be harmed as a result. so that made me feel better about the situation. the chatter at idle is not bad at all in my opinion. i can still hear my exhaust over it, so im cool with that situation also.

there are plenty of other options that people go with. the Jim Wolf kits seem to get good reviews also.

The main thing that you have to do when purchasing a clutch and a flywheel is ask yourself what you are going to do with your car, or what you actually plan to do. I wanted to have mind daily driver friendly because i drive my car around town alot… it is not just my weekend or track car, and i dont plan on thorwing on a twin turbo kit tomorrow. so knowing this i knew that i want a sprung clutch that had good enough holding power to be able to put bolt ons in my car and not worry about slipping any time soon. ultimately just dont buy a crap kit off of ebay. you get what you pay for. i hope this helps.

 

also remember that i own the ACT stuff. i would give more information on others if i had the information. i dont mean to sound biased. im really just biased over the stock clutch

 

All right is all depending on the condition of your oem flywheel. When I got my clutch replaced a few months ago with an exedy stage 1 my stock flywheel was in pretty good condition so the mechanic sanded it down a little bit and I kept it. Its been like 4 months now and is working perfectly fine plus I don't have to deal with the chatter.

 

As long as you know how to drive a MT an OE clutch should last you as long as you own the G35! I put 117K miles on my last '92 300TTZ before a rear main seal degraded my clutch and that's the only one I've replaced in a very long time. If you don't mind the "chatter" you can't do better than an ACT clutch!
Gary

 

I think i might have got conned then... I put in a new clutch and buddy told me he machined the flywheel for me ....

I guess i shouldint of been such a noob

 

awesome info gang! not even sure my clutch is bad as it does not slip but only engages on the last two inches of the pedal rather abruptly.

whats the easiest way to see if it's bad? 4th gear at a stop and try to go? if she stalls she is good if not she is bad? hydraulic clutches are new to me!

 

Take off real quick. If the rpms skyrocket before you go somewhere its almost 99% your clutch slipping.

 

4th gear test= NO GOOD.
the late engagement is typical for stock clutch. you just have to get use to it