I wanted to upgrade my radiator.... but most after market radiators ( via E bay ) are about 120-150 bucks....http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...ht_2797wt_1167


Most of these are for a manual set up.... and the same *quality* radiator for an automatic are 320 +.....

For a little tube in the bottom tank !!??

So, can I use a radiator for a manual and a tranny external cooler by itself?

If so, how big of a tranny cooler would I need ?
The car will start off 100% stock....
But later I will add a super charger.... to make modest power gains...
Not 500HP... maybe 400 TOPS... so with that in mind... I would want the correct tranny cooler...

Thought's, comments, suggestions ??

Thanks
Mike

 

Mike yes you can use a manual rad, with external cooler. I would suggest a good radiator and cooler tho as you want it to be an upgrade. The more cooling for your tranny the better heat kills auto's

 

Koyo or Mishimoto radiator?

But for the tranny 3 row... 5 row... or more??

 

I have this kit kicking in the garage:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HAYDE...s#ht_903wt_941

Seems a bit whimpy.....

Something more like this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hayde...s#ht_915wt_941

or this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hayde...#ht_1411wt_927

This is probably overkill:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...ht_2495wt_1167

I can't see to find a spec for how much of a drop in temp I need VS stock.
The setup now will be 100% stock.. which will all get chucked as soon as I get a good plan.

Hayden states this...
"Service Bulletin: #2004-003 Transmission Oil and Filter Change
When changing your transmission fluid and filter note the color of the fluid. If the fluid is brownish in color and smells like burnt toast the vehicle could be experiencing transmission overheating. Every 20 degrees Fahrenheit decrease in fluid temperature can double the life of the fluid and transmission components. Protect your vehicles transmission - install a Hayden Transmission Oil Cooler. The addition of a Hayden cooler can lower your transmissions temperature by up to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Three times the amount required to double the life of your transmission."

So 3X in cooling is better... great.. but how many BTU ( or degrees ) can a stock cooler dissipate?

Mike

 

Alright

Coolers are spec'ed on Gross Vehicle Weight
An 03 G35 coupe is 4,391 ( 4400 to make the math easy )

A surface area of 5" x 12" x 3/4" is good for 10,000 GVW ( this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HAYDE...s#ht_903wt_941 )

The 6 row version of same 7 1/2" x 12" x 3/4"
is good for 16,000 GVW or 3.6 X the GVW of the car!

So this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Flex-...#ht_1525wt_941

With this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-07...#ht_3177wt_941

Should be the ticket for under $200.00 and will cool better.....

Thought's?

Mike

 

If you choose an external cooler get an electric fan in case your stuck in traffic on hot day(I know not likely to happen in CA).

 

Wouldn't the air flow from the 2 electric " stock " puller fans be enough?
Not a big deal to add... just another thing.....

Mike

 

The bigger the better, I think the last one I installed was a 25 row. But it was for a track setup.

 

My opinion is you can never go too big when doing major power mods. I don't know what the added thermal load would be, so play it safe.

That said, IF I were you, get a manual tranny radiator. Then do what I did here, minus the OEM cooler part: https://g35driver.com/forums/drivetr...ns-cooler.html

The reason for the thermostat is to keep from overcooling. You should have a great little system this way. Little more cash up front but it will be done right. Additionally, the cooler I have used is much more thermally efficient than those cheapy ebay deals. If I were you I'd aim for something between 30 and 40 in square of cooler frontal area (like a 3x13 or 6x8) theere are ton of different sizes for earl's coolers.

Well, unless you mount it DIRECTLY onto the condensor/rad you won't see much help from fans. any gaps will provide a shorter, less resistant path for airflow and therefore none will be drawn through your added cooler(s). If you mount like how I did your OEM fans won't help. I've been considering getting a small electric fan for my setup but the added complexity is very unappealing to me at the moment.

Please, do not go cheap with your supporting mods, or how you execute them. They will come back to bite you when you skimp. The tube and fin coolers are not as efficient and without a thermostat you may never reach the proper trans temp during cool weather cruising.

 

+1, put a fan behind your cooler if you're bypassing the heat exchanger at the bottom of the oem radiator. i got stuck in a horrible traffic jam heading into SF...its not a good feeling watching your AT fluid temps climb and not being able to do anything about it i installed a 5" SPAL puller fan behind my cooler shortly thereafter.

 

Hmmmmm......

Well I will not be tracking the car....
I might do super charging... much later... but for now this engine has 97K... and an unknown maint history.

OK so I guess science will come into play....
I'll have to get an outboard temp ( electronic ) temp gauge.. and see where we are at.

Then add the cooler.. and see what the numbers say.

Plus.... the tranny needs a filter change & mini flush..
More to come & thanks for all the input, very helpful!~

Mike