Axle click - wheel click - easier fix inside
#1
Axle click - wheel click - easier fix inside
Or at least a less intrusive fix. You DO NOT need to remove the axle if you're like me and you're a little uneasy about removing an entire axle. I fixed the same click tick noise on one front wheel of my 04 maxima 3yrs ago using this method with no repeat of the issue yet.
The my350z thread has all the steps and pictures for the full axle removal method so I won't repeat all the steps. There are even a few posts on page 4 that talk about what I did without removing the axle. I wanted to make sure the G community knows this method.
my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/428639-clicking-noise-from-rear-axle.html
I used a cheap Tool Shop 32MM impact driver bit from Menards to remove the outside axle nut. The my350z thread has a picture of a breaker bar "breaking" while trying to remove that nut. I didn't have any trouble with 90psi on the airgun. Once you have the large 32MM nut off, you only need to rubber hammer the axle in towards the car. It will move very easy as long as you're in neutral (I'm 6MT). Mine would not budge when in gear. I also only had one wheel jacked up for the process. After it budged an inch, I was able to push it in the rest of the way by hand. It stopped at about 2 inches.
With the axle pushed in towards the car, you can now finish the job without removing the axle. Looking on the backside of the rotor shield, you'll see the small gap you created after the axle was moved inward. I held my breath and blasted this area out with air before starting. Lost of rust/dust flew out.
I used a hacksaw blade with a slight bend at the end to weasel some large globs of grease all the way into the gap. You want to make sure you're getting the grease into the middle area, not just the outside edges. This can look like a daunting task, but a bent tool or brush makes it doable. I used the blade to spread the globs around most of the area. There will be some spots that you just can't reach. When you put the 32MM nut back on and tighten it, the globs will squeeze out enough to cover the entire circumference. The grease was valvoline synpower synthetic grease which was thick and black. It comes in the typical 14oz small round tub at walmart. Any high temp grease that you'd use for brake slider pin-bolt's would be appropriate. When I did the Maxima years ago, I used walmart brand super tech high temp grease (red, thick).
Click was immediately gone, and I can easily do the other wheel if it happens on that side. I only did one wheel on my Max 3yrs ago and didn't have to repeat anything. Removing the axle definitely gives you the ability to do a more thorough cleaning and consistent grease application. Some will argue that it's easier to remove the axle so you don't have to do any weaseling, but I prefer not to get myself into trouble unless absolutely necessary.
The my350z thread has all the steps and pictures for the full axle removal method so I won't repeat all the steps. There are even a few posts on page 4 that talk about what I did without removing the axle. I wanted to make sure the G community knows this method.
my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/428639-clicking-noise-from-rear-axle.html
I used a cheap Tool Shop 32MM impact driver bit from Menards to remove the outside axle nut. The my350z thread has a picture of a breaker bar "breaking" while trying to remove that nut. I didn't have any trouble with 90psi on the airgun. Once you have the large 32MM nut off, you only need to rubber hammer the axle in towards the car. It will move very easy as long as you're in neutral (I'm 6MT). Mine would not budge when in gear. I also only had one wheel jacked up for the process. After it budged an inch, I was able to push it in the rest of the way by hand. It stopped at about 2 inches.
With the axle pushed in towards the car, you can now finish the job without removing the axle. Looking on the backside of the rotor shield, you'll see the small gap you created after the axle was moved inward. I held my breath and blasted this area out with air before starting. Lost of rust/dust flew out.
I used a hacksaw blade with a slight bend at the end to weasel some large globs of grease all the way into the gap. You want to make sure you're getting the grease into the middle area, not just the outside edges. This can look like a daunting task, but a bent tool or brush makes it doable. I used the blade to spread the globs around most of the area. There will be some spots that you just can't reach. When you put the 32MM nut back on and tighten it, the globs will squeeze out enough to cover the entire circumference. The grease was valvoline synpower synthetic grease which was thick and black. It comes in the typical 14oz small round tub at walmart. Any high temp grease that you'd use for brake slider pin-bolt's would be appropriate. When I did the Maxima years ago, I used walmart brand super tech high temp grease (red, thick).
Click was immediately gone, and I can easily do the other wheel if it happens on that side. I only did one wheel on my Max 3yrs ago and didn't have to repeat anything. Removing the axle definitely gives you the ability to do a more thorough cleaning and consistent grease application. Some will argue that it's easier to remove the axle so you don't have to do any weaseling, but I prefer not to get myself into trouble unless absolutely necessary.
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