Okay. So I have an 05 6mt. Lets say I'm driving at like 75 mph. If I press down the gas pedal significantly the rpm's will jump about 400-500, come back down, and then I will start to accelerate.. I'm pretty sure it only happens at these speeds in sixth gear.

 

New clutch 4 sho,

 

you will need a clutch soon.. its really expensive, so start taking it easy on it while you buy parts.. I just did mine myself as cheap as I could without reusing the fw and it cost me ~$900 to do it myself..

once mine started to slip I was able to drive it for a couple weeks keeping the rpm down and the gas pedal light, and it was fine

 

Your going to need around $1000. Unless you want an OEM flywheel then $2000. You can get by for a while but it's going to get worse and start slipping in lower gears too which can be dangerous.

 

So it is normal for it to start slipping in higher gears first?

 

Yes. Higher gearing requires more torque to accelerate.

So if you stick the trans in a tall gear at low RPM and floor it, you'll see instantly if your clutch is slipping.

The more it wears, the easier it will be to slip, so you'll start to see it starting to slip in lower gears. At that point, it's pretty much toast.

If you can't get it fixed soon, try not to slip it anymore. If you need to accelerate in 6th gear, drop it to a lower gear and gently accelerate.

 

So driving at the lowest rpm's possible will save it for as long as possible. Correct? Like I said, it only slips, about 3/5 times, when I floor it in 6th. Hasn't happened in 5th yet. How long does it sound like it has left? And I'm talking the longest possible amount of time. I wOnt have 1k to drop for a while haha.

 

more accurately, the higher the gear you are in the more load there is on everything.. also you are putting less tq through it at low rpm.. a combo of load and tq are what make it slip

it is impossible to say how long it will last, but if you take it easy, you can probably drive for a few more weeks.. keep in mind it will take you a week to get the parts in, so dont wait too long

when I noticed mine slipping, I drove it really easy for 2 weeks, and when I took the clutch/flywheel out the rivets were all stretched out and the fw was clearly burned up.. I was suprised how bad it looked

its a job that is no fun to do in your driveway either.. time to call the parents or get a credit card if you dont have the cash, if you dont eventually you will end up stranded

I had no idea how much clutches are for these things untill mine went bad.. if you just cant come up with the money, you can re-use your old fw and get a cheap clutch in the $3xx range, but it isnt recomended.. you'll find its a lot of work to not do it correctly, especially if your car has a lot of miles on it

the best deal I found was in the vendor section you can get a jim wolf clutch/fw combe for under $800 with new clutch line, and pivot.. you will also need money for tranny fluid and incidentals

 

U can get your flywheel resurfaced if you don't wanna buy a new one, u can also get a exedy oem replacement clutch for a Cheap. Your probably gonna pay more for labor then parts.

 

I don't mean to thread jack but this might be useful to the op if he decides to install the clutch himself. I am about to change

my clutch and flywheel and was wondering about the throwout bearing. I don't have what I need to take it off and press the new

one on. So I am planning to take it somewhere for that. Will I need to take the whole transmission with me or can I just take apart

the shaft for the tob? If I can take it apart is their anything extra I might need? Seals or gasket sealant?

 

I was able to change mine without any special tools.. they say you need a press, but I used a vise and a hammer without issue, but if you have a shop do it, there is no reason to drag the tranny to the shop.. it is on a little hub thing that pulls off of the tranny shaft

the only seal you may want to change is the rear main, but from what I understand that is a pretty big undertaking, requiring you to remove the upper oil pan.. mine wasn't leaking after 150k, so I didnt mess with it

you will need tranny fluid and grease of course, and it takes a special tool to change the pilot bushing/bearing, but I was able to get it from autozone on their loaner tool program "pilot bearing removal tool" and a slide hammer

another thing, if I were you I wouldnt open the clutch fluid line.. I opened mine planning on changing the line, then I didnt because I couldnt get it off and now I'm having issues bleeding the clutch.. I bleed it and it feels great good for a couple days, then goes soft.. p.i.a.
just unbolt the slave and let it hang.. save yourself the headache

 

I didn't pursue this option because of the high mileage of my car, but if you are planning to do this you will need to find a shop capable of turning a dual mass flywheel, most places wont touch them

 

Thank you sir. I forgot about needing a specialty tool for the pilot bearing too.

I was planning on changing the clutch line to a stainless line also. I will make sure I look at that

real good before I try to do it.

 

Not necessarily the lowest RPM, but lower gearing is easier for the engine to turn. The easier for it to turn, the less load on the clutch so the lesser chance of slipping.

Picture a bike, trying to pedal it up the hill. If you put it in lower gears, it's easier, but you have to pedal more (more RPM). But if you put it in a taller gear, less pedalling (RPM) but it's way harder. Thats what will slip a clutch.

You could go outside and floor it once and burn the clutch completely out...so definitely work on grabbing the parts you can. In the meantime...drive the car as easy as you can for now.

 

While a clutch job isn't cheap, you can get a good quality name brand clutch/lightweight flywheel for 600-700 and install from a shop should be 400-500. Im lucky to live by z1 motorsports and I plan to buy a new clutch/FW through them and have them install it whenever mine goes bad.

Btw, why would you ever floor it in 6th gear? Why not just downshift to 5th and gas it a little....just doesn't seem like an efficient way to accelerate.