2007 IP G 78k miles. jwt clutch/fly with 40k miles on it. I just got done doing my first full maintenance with it. Also added spl differential bushings and Ryan's clutch pedal bracket. I've put 700 miles on it since I finished the maintenance and its been driving amazing compared to before. One thing I've noticed is sometimes it feels slightly harder to get into a gear than normal and that can be any gear but most of the time it feels normal

Did a little work on it and took it for a test drive last night at midnight and launched at 3.5k and lost a little more traction than I thought and the tires tried spinning but traction control came on and I had quickly put it into neutral since traction control killed my launch. right after that I had to pull over cause I couldn't push the **** into any gear. Played with the clutch pedal adjustment rod for 45 min then I turned the car off, put it in first, and for a millisecond I turned the ignition. The car slightly jerked forward as you would expect then all of a sudden i could move the **** into all the gears again. i was just happy to get home really but now ive gotta fix it from happening again.

Keep in mind I just flushed the slave cylinder completely. No leaks or air bubbles. And am running a finely tuned RJM pedal bracket for 700 miles with everything mechanically working perfectly. i know for a fact the pedal adjustment rod is not the issue. And the slave/master cylinders aren't as well. I'm fairly certain I still have the stock pivot ball which I think might be the problem

I've done a few days of research on this and I plan on trying to fix it myself so I wanted to get all of your inputs on what the issue exactly is and how to solve it

PLEASE don't tell me take it to a professional and pay. I'm seriously trying to learn. I taught myself how to restore carbureted motorcycles 3 yrs ago and now I'm trying to push myself to learn about cars. I've been burned by shops too many times and I like knowing everything about my rides. I live eat sleep repair manuals and I don't need nonsense.

 

I had a similar issue before my clutch swap. I have an RJM pedal bracket and I had it long before I ran into this problem and after pulling the clutch apart I don't think it caused any problems. If you know your slave and master cylinder are good and not leaking fluid past the pistons then I would look into the pressure plate. My pressure plate, clutch and throw out bearing had 90k+ miles on them and were starting to look pretty worn. However I think the biggest contributor was that in my 03 I still had the stamped steel fork and it seemed bent at the end. I replaced it with the updated 04+ fork and pivot ball. Now the fork in yours shouldn't be anything like that as Nissan saw the problem with that early on but you might have some wear along that line.

what happens when you try to increase the rod length and gain a little more throw from your clutch pedal. You said its finely tuned. Is it hair trigger? Maybe you have had some wear or heat expansion and you need to compensate for it. During your launch where you lost traction you could have spun your clutch pretty hard and if it heated up the assembly enough it could have just expanded and hung up, dragging on release.

You say that adjustment is not the issue so there are really only two other causes; wear along the pressure plate, TOB, pivot, etc. or the harder to diagnose problem where you can have an internal leak in your slave or master cylinders where no fluid hits the ground but you lose full throw almost immediately.

Most people know when they break the pivot ball because it feels awful if the clutch works at all. (usually doesn't work at all and pedal never returns back because the fork isn't really attached to anything at that point)