Clutch Troubles
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 406
Likes: 2
From: Roanoke, VA
Clutch Troubles
I have a 2006 G35 Coupe 6MT.
I have the motordyne spacer, mrev2, intake, .....
Recently I purchased a Southbend Stage 2 endurace clutch with the carbon kevlar clutch plate on it, new JWT flywheel friction plate and wildwwood heavy duty master, and replace the slave. I had it installed by a trust worthy garage and it was having a hard time engaging, getting into first and reverse. cost me $800.
So then I took it to the Infiniti dealership here and had it un-installed and re-installed, it was still hard to get into first and reverse unless you blipped the throttle up to about 2k rpm. If I was slowing down to come to a stop and shifted into first with the clutch depressed, the car will shutter and almost stall out. Then once stopped, if I let off the brake, the car would pull forward. If I was stopped in neutral and try to shift into reverse, it would pull backward. That was $800. Now they are looking at it again to see what the problem is.
I purchased the clutch from CZPerformance, and Coz told me that I could pull the clutch and send it to him and they could test it for defects, but he also said that it is a very small chance there is a defect.
I am so frustrated that I am on the verge of trading the G on a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland with Hemi.
Does anyone have any suggestions. I am almost $2400 into this clutch for just the labor....Someone please help. Thank you for any suggestions.
I have the motordyne spacer, mrev2, intake, .....
Recently I purchased a Southbend Stage 2 endurace clutch with the carbon kevlar clutch plate on it, new JWT flywheel friction plate and wildwwood heavy duty master, and replace the slave. I had it installed by a trust worthy garage and it was having a hard time engaging, getting into first and reverse. cost me $800.
So then I took it to the Infiniti dealership here and had it un-installed and re-installed, it was still hard to get into first and reverse unless you blipped the throttle up to about 2k rpm. If I was slowing down to come to a stop and shifted into first with the clutch depressed, the car will shutter and almost stall out. Then once stopped, if I let off the brake, the car would pull forward. If I was stopped in neutral and try to shift into reverse, it would pull backward. That was $800. Now they are looking at it again to see what the problem is.
I purchased the clutch from CZPerformance, and Coz told me that I could pull the clutch and send it to him and they could test it for defects, but he also said that it is a very small chance there is a defect.
I am so frustrated that I am on the verge of trading the G on a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland with Hemi.
Does anyone have any suggestions. I am almost $2400 into this clutch for just the labor....Someone please help. Thank you for any suggestions.
I think it's a co-winkeydink. My 05' sedan is the same way. It's the COLD. Does it get better when you have driven it about a half hour? It's more common on here than you think. Some guys try different tranny oils and say it helps.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 406
Likes: 2
From: Roanoke, VA
Well when the car is cold, the idle is higher. It actually doesn't even pull forward when its cold. It is when it warms up. I first had the Redline tranny fluid put in. Now it has the Nissan tranny oil in it.
Our flywheel is a LUK dual mass flywheel (27 lbs), now you have a single lightweight flywheel (probably 15-17 lbs) coupled with a stage 2 racing clutch. A lightweight flywheel is a performance upgrade as well as a carbon kevlar plate, not at all for comfort. ....any lightweight flywheel on any car you need to keep the RPMs high or it will stall, lurch, make noise whatever. The noise it makes in neutral is just a lightweight flywheel.
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