Yep....My Wife loves the Romeo and Juliet.

I love your Gorilla.....TOO COOL......THANK YOU SO MUCH.....

And WE Have Made IT to PAGE 3
NOW THE GOOD STUFF WILL SHOW UP.












BEST I/P so FAR





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because of weight shift during cornering. The outside loaded tire has a ton more weight on it, so when you apply enough gas to break loose (easy to do in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd on street tires), there's a good chance it's going to be the inside tire.

False, body roll has absolutely nothing to do with weight shift. If you are losing traction specifically on acceleration, and the car is fine with neutral throttle, changing the neutral handling characteristics with sway bars might not be the best idea.

An LSD will help. If you are going to autocross, getting a quaife or a cusco might not be a bad idea. For cheaper things first, make sure your bushings are good, and consider getting more solid bushings. Also make sure your shocks are good.

All in all, i don't think the rear suspension layout of the g is good for hooking up lots of power at low speeds.

 

This is exactly what I meant by body roll. Wrong term to use. As I explained by less traction on the inner tires due to weight being shifted to the outer tires.

 

Ok...Thanks guys.

Yes I am aware of most of the vectors/forces involved here.

Really, what I am looking to find out....What NEW Rear End / Differential should I get.

WHAT have people done to solve this issue.

Based on my experience, this car sucks off the line unless going straight. I am intending a little road racing...Like on tracks and I need both rear wheels / tires engaged.

Maybe....Maybe you are right to replace the bushings could help a lot. Might make it slide even more though without proper rear end / Differential.

 

Best advice I can give you is to brake at the turn in thru the apex and accelerate thru the turn. Never brake thru a corner. The built up energy will push the back of your car hard enough to cause traction loss. Google "braking to the turn in" to see what I'm talking about.

 

4.08 posi rear end, brah.

 

No, I understand the theory here, but that tire gets so little relative power that he would have to be driving like a complete assh0le for that to happen (which may very well be the case haha). The way I drive tho, it just seems very unlikely.

 

Read tis thread....Nothing said about braking into a turn til now. Re-Read this Thread.


Yeh, I' m the A hole here. Re-Read this Thread and see who is the A holes....Last one in line is YOu.....

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I know there was no mention of it. I was asking you. Calm down, bro. I'm not attacking you.

 

Congrats on making sense of that. Had no idea what all the re read chit meant lol

 

I'm not sure what's going on in this thread, but for the OP breaking loose in the turns, and open diff is going to do that period. Look for a used LSD at a minimum. You have several factory rear gear ratios to choose from in your search: 3.3 came in with the AT, 3.5 came with the 6MT, and 3.7 is available in the G37/370Z 6MT.

Upgrade to an LSD and enjoy the increased traction. Then start upgrading other stuff as needed.

 

USE THE SEARCH BAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
check all your bushings
if you want an lsd you can find one easily from a part out, simple swap
get yourself a softer compound tire if you want grip

 

What kind of track? For road tracks, the stock vlsd is pretty crap. If you are going to be doing the labor to replace the diff, better to go with a real one like a quaife or cusco. The torson type and clutch type have their plusses and minuses

 

To clarify, body roll has nothing to do with weight shift and springs and roll bars similarly do nothing to overall weight shift. Weight shift is determined by lateral acceleration, ride height, and track width. Roll bars just move the weight shift balance between the axles, but the overall weight shift remains the same.

 

The best mod for road racing is to adjust the nut behind the wheel.

Seriously, you never "hammer down" on a road course. You feed in the power. I've raced with open diffs, VLSD diffs and Torsen type diffs. It doesn't matter, you still have to feed in the power. You have to feel what is needed and only apply that much.

I understand you want to autocross, and you should have fun doing so. But unless you're going just for fun you've purchased the wrong car to start with. Dont' get me wrong. The G35 Coupe is a great car, but the AT version with it's open diff is going be in the same class as the G35 6MT Coupe with VLSD as well as the 350Z and maybe even the 370Z Nismo. And IIRC, those cars are not at the top of their classes either.

With a front engined car with an open diff you want to enter the corner wide, braking as straight as possible into it, late apex, straighten the car out of the corner and THEN apply power. If your class allows it, a stiffer front sway bar may help but driving style will do more. And in ALL cases, tires are the single biggest thing you can do for your car.