Issues with Clutch line install and bleeding
#1
08-22-2015, 10:52 AM
Issues with Clutch line install and bleeding
First time poster, long-time lurker.
(1) I was having clutch line issues. The fluid was tea-colored, thus time for a change. But I had also purchased a Wilwood master reservoir, Nissan CSC and a stainless steel line from Concept Z Performance in preparation for new new clutch install.
I installed the components last night (that master cylinder was a b$#th) and *attempted* to bleed with the 2-person method. We worked for over an hour on bleeding and went through 2 bottles of Lucas Oil DOT 4. The clutch pedal does not suck down to the floor, and I am able to up/down shift w/o grinding. However, the engagement is very, very low to the floor. And it still takes ~ 0.5-0.75s for the pedal to pop back up on its own. QUESTION: Do I still have air in my line or do I need to fine tune the master cylinder rod? If the latter, how do I do so (obviously turn the yoke and nut...but what specs?)
(2) On a separate note, I'm hoping someone has some advice for the install. Just like when we upgrade to SS lines on the brakes, the clutch hard line (now SS line) meets the flexible line (behind the wheel wheel) at a metal plate and they are secured in place by a metal retaining clip. On the brake job, I use a screwdriver and mallet...works great. However, there is not enough clearance for the clutch line. I had to zip tie the new lines to the old flexible line. Have any of you done this? What advice or tips can you provide. P.S. Tried removing my cat cross bar but one of the bolts is rusted to mush. No amount of PB Blaster and 12-pt socket will remove it. Probably needs to be melted out.
(1) I was having clutch line issues. The fluid was tea-colored, thus time for a change. But I had also purchased a Wilwood master reservoir, Nissan CSC and a stainless steel line from Concept Z Performance in preparation for new new clutch install.
I installed the components last night (that master cylinder was a b$#th) and *attempted* to bleed with the 2-person method. We worked for over an hour on bleeding and went through 2 bottles of Lucas Oil DOT 4. The clutch pedal does not suck down to the floor, and I am able to up/down shift w/o grinding. However, the engagement is very, very low to the floor. And it still takes ~ 0.5-0.75s for the pedal to pop back up on its own. QUESTION: Do I still have air in my line or do I need to fine tune the master cylinder rod? If the latter, how do I do so (obviously turn the yoke and nut...but what specs?)
(2) On a separate note, I'm hoping someone has some advice for the install. Just like when we upgrade to SS lines on the brakes, the clutch hard line (now SS line) meets the flexible line (behind the wheel wheel) at a metal plate and they are secured in place by a metal retaining clip. On the brake job, I use a screwdriver and mallet...works great. However, there is not enough clearance for the clutch line. I had to zip tie the new lines to the old flexible line. Have any of you done this? What advice or tips can you provide. P.S. Tried removing my cat cross bar but one of the bolts is rusted to mush. No amount of PB Blaster and 12-pt socket will remove it. Probably needs to be melted out.
Last edited by mdzukunft; 08-22-2015 at 01:54 PM.
#2
08-25-2015, 10:28 AM
Since I hate open threads, I'll resolve this one myself.
ANSWERS:
(1) No air in clutch line. Adjusted the master cylinder rod to appropriate tension. For those who do not know, you want the pedal to have play (freely moveable) BEFORE the master cylinder rod engages and creates tension. The FSM states 3-4 mm of play, I believe. Turn clockwise for more play (softer pedal), counter-clockwise for less (firmer pedal).
(2) Metal retaining clip on pressure plate? I contemplated using 45-degree or 90-degree pliers, then said 'screw it' and went to see my mechanic. Car placed upon lift. 3 min later, clip out and line re-bled. Did it for free, gave him a $30 tip. Lesson: Get your wife/GF/sig other to let you buy a lift and/or a garage. Makes things SO much easier!
THREAD OFFICIALLY CLOSED.
ANSWERS:
(1) No air in clutch line. Adjusted the master cylinder rod to appropriate tension. For those who do not know, you want the pedal to have play (freely moveable) BEFORE the master cylinder rod engages and creates tension. The FSM states 3-4 mm of play, I believe. Turn clockwise for more play (softer pedal), counter-clockwise for less (firmer pedal).
(2) Metal retaining clip on pressure plate? I contemplated using 45-degree or 90-degree pliers, then said 'screw it' and went to see my mechanic. Car placed upon lift. 3 min later, clip out and line re-bled. Did it for free, gave him a $30 tip. Lesson: Get your wife/GF/sig other to let you buy a lift and/or a garage. Makes things SO much easier!
THREAD OFFICIALLY CLOSED.
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