Hello, all. I don't normally post much here, just a lot of reading and searching. I have searched and read many threads, yet I haven't came across the solution.

So here's my query; I have an '05 manual sedan with 3" exhaust and a tune and some springs, otherwise stock with 165k on the clock. I bought the car with 130k on it already. For about 10-15k miles or so, my clutch seemed to be dragging after it is warmed up. It did it for about 5k miles before that, but adjusting the pedal properly took care of it for a bit. Now, for a while it has been slipping about all the time after a couple miles after initial start up. So I ordered a stage II clutch kit and lightweight flywheel from eBay for about 400. I swapped the clutch, pp, flywheel, throw out bearing, and input shaft bushing. It seems all installed properly and was very straightforward. I never opened the bleeder on the slave while I did the swap, just let it hang by the line. After installation, I fire it up and the pedal feels good, yet I cannot get it into any gear while it is running. Just tries to creep forward the harder I try putting it in gear. I thought that I'd bleed the system, since the slave rod came forward a bit when I unbolted it from the transmission. So, I tried bleeding it with a friend, and the slave rod would move only a little, and nothing would come out the bleeder. So after a while of that and getting nowhere, I decided to just open the bleeder and gravity bleed it. Overnight and nothing came out. So then I hooked a small hose to the bleeder screw and put the other end into a full quart of brake fluid with the bleeder open and the resivoir full. The bleeder is barely cracked open and i can pump it with my hand at the slave and it's just pushing air into the bottle, then sucking up a little fluid, then more air. I've done this for about an hour and am wondering if anyone may have a helpful soultiin. Thank you.

 

After reading your post it doesn't sound like you read or followed the FSM for replacing the clutch?

http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manu...5_G35_Sedan/cl

see page Cl-7 and follow the proper bleeding procedure

CLUTCH FLUID
PFP:00017
Bleeding
ACS00A0T
CAUTION:


Monitor fluid level in reservoir tank to make sure it does not empty.


Do not spill clutch fluid onto painted surfaces. If it spills, wipe up immediately and wash the
affected area with water.
NOTE:
Do not use a vacuum assist or any other type of power bleeder on this system. Use of vacuum assist or power
bleeder will not purge all the air from the system.
1. Fill master cylinder reservoir tank with new clutch fluid.
2. Connect a transparent vinyl hose to air bleeder.
3. Depress clutch pedal quickly and fully a few times and hold it.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, open air bleeder.
5. Close air bleeder.
6. Release clutch pedal and wait for 5 seconds.
7. Repeat steps 3 to 6 until no bubbles can be observed in brake
fluid.
8. Tighten air bleeder to the specified torque. Refer to
CL-11,
"
Removal and Installation
"
.


Telcoman

 

It never got empty, nor does the fluid in the resivoir move at all, and it wouldn't go in gear before trying to bleed it. By the way, on my end, your link turns up a blank page. Thanks anyway.

 

I ended up taking all the hydraulics apart and found they were all full of rust. So I cleaned everything out well, reassembled and reinstalled, and it started gravity bleeding right away.

 

Glad you got it worked out.