This is my first time posting here. I have a 2004 G35 6mt. I had issues with the clutch pedal going all the way to the ground. Thought it was the slave cylinder then found out my throwout bearing was shot. I dropped the transmission and replaced the throwout bearing and sleeve. I didn't replace the clutch because it was changed about 15,000 miles ago by the previous owner and it didn't show much wear. So I went ahead and replaced the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and did a ss clutch line and I cant get it to bleed. I was finally able to suck some fluid into my lines from the reservoir however I have encountered some issues. The clutch pedal would only return 3/4 of the way up. So I adjusted the fork on the master cylinder to the pedal and I got it to come all the way up now but the fork is pretty much adjusted all the way out. At first when I put pressure on the clutch pedal i don't notice any resistance until about the last 4" before it hits the floor, and when I do feel resistance there is about 4 times the amount of resistance I would feel when my clutch was operating normally. Now that I adjusted the fork and the pedal comes all the way up but the resistance is now 4 times what it should be the entire way now. When I press the clutch as far in as I can the clutch wont disengage when I'm in gear so I completely stumped. Is my clutch bad? Why is the clutch pedal so freaking hard to press in? Why wont the clutch disengage when pressed all the way in? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!! Thanks for your time. I tried vacuum bleeding and 2 man bleeding

 

You're can bench prime the master before installation, basically you use a wooden dowel and rapidly push the piston in until fluid is pumping freely from the outlet. This removes all air from the internals of the cylinder before installation otherwise it's a total pain to get it all out sometimes. Also, set the clevis pin adjustment at factory specification (floating in the bore of the clutch pedal) and DONT just eyeball the adjuster after installation for a better "feel". Read the FSM it has exact directions for everything, I strongly recommend you disassemble the system and reinstall it properly to ensure it will last and work the way it's supposed to, if you're maxing out the piston stroke you may have already damaged the new CMC.

If you vacuum bled the system the CMC might be shot, disassemble and replace the o-ring if it's been pulled off the piston, the directions specifically say:

http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manu.../Coupe/2004/cl