I was checking the site for stickies on clutch set ups but did not come across any. I have daily driver 07 6mt cpe and looking to replace the clutch set up..I'm not running on the track or doing any slalom driving. I've read the reviews on switching from a dual mass to a single mass flywheel with the chatter and I remember having a JWT setup on a previous 06 cpe several years ago. Yes, it sounded like a bag of marbles jiggling in their and had a quicker response through the gears. That's not what I am looking for this time around.

I want to keep sound to a minimal so I would go with another dual mass flywheel but up for discussion if I should go with a stage 1 or a stage 2 clutch. This leads to my 3 questions: 1. Will a stage 1 perform better than an oem clutch from Nissan or equivalent? 2. Is it a waste for a daily driver to have a stage 2 clutch and dual mass flywheel? 3. Which clutch setups are commonly used or recommended?

Any feedback is appreciated.

 

The "stage blah blah" of a clutch is just a wierd way of defining the clamping torque load the clutch can handle before slipping/breaking.

What you're looking for is a "sprung hub full-faced" clutch, this means it has the spring hub in the middle to dampen vibration/shock and the clutch material is in a circle around the entire clutch face. If you are mostly stock or have mild bolt-ons then an OEM clutch torque rating will work fine. If you're fully bolted and tuned then you might consider a stage 1 clutch which will have the extra clamping force while still being an organic clutch.

Check the specs on the clutch you're getting, OEM rated ones are usually 300 # torque, a stage 1 will be like 350-360# torque, stage 2 clutches are usually getting into ceramics and pucks and that's not what you're looking for unless you are running some forced induction and need the extra clamping force.

As far as the chatter goes, if chatter is a deal-breaker then you need a DMFW, it's inevitable if you go single mass because this is possibly the noisiest drivetrain ever produced in the history of cars and you need the DM to soak up that noise Fortunately you can find them more reasonably priced now but they're still about double the cost of a lightweight single mass.

 

Thanks for the direction on how to proceed..stock clutch is still in great shape as the car only has 56k on it (not so much a daily driver) but it's def has lost some grab from the gradual break in. Dual mass it will be for me which I'm cool with. Just curious to know what's anyone's input on a brand clutch to look at. I know the companies as this is not my first time around but curious to know what is in favor.

 

Not sure who actually supplies the Z1 motorsports house brand clutch, there was no marking on the box but it feels great to me and had a good price tag. Exedy always makes a good clutch so I would probably go with one of them or a LUK depending on who has the best price. Keep in mind you will also need the throwout bearing, pilot bushing, and it's STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders.

I think LUK was the OEM supplier for the DMFW and it's only about $400 so you can so the whole job for under $1000 in parts.

 

Check out the z-speed quiet clutch kits.

​​​A mid or heavy weight single mass steel flywheel will help damper the noise and still have a more stock feel. Look into those flywheel options before you limit yourself to a dual mass.

I wish I had gone with one of their quiet disc options. I put mine together for cheap and should have just spent the extra $200 or so.

My setup is:
CZP 17lbs Chromoly flywheel ($250) -CZP
Exedy NSK1000 OEM clutch kit ($200) -rockauto

Was able then to just get new clutch slave and master cylinders from rock auto for another $50. So just around $500 in parts. $600 if you get the CZP clutch line & pivot ball combo, and new fluids.

It feels fine, but the clutch is pretty noisy during low speed engagement. So street driving is fine, but creeping around a parking garage sounds like it's about to fall apart, lol.