They don't make "manual transmission fluid" they make oil in specific viscosities, same as the oil that goes into the engine, it's not marketed as "engine oil" it's marketed as OIL in a specific viscosity.

The G35 6MT recommended gear oil viscosity is 75W-85 or 75W-90 for hot environments or track use.

"Gear oil" is just oil but with different additives, gear oil doesn't need stuff for breaking down gasoline or diesel, but it does need better anti-foaming agents. There is also a lot more pressure exerted on the molecule of the gear oil due to the gear reduction nature of the transmission. Pressure levels at the engine are mostly based on the force exerted by the piston downward onto the crank bearing which is significantly less pressure than what you would find at the final drive gear which is multiplied by the gear reduction nature of the manual transmission. First gear at the final drive or differential is 3.8x as much torque as the engine is generating.

I'm surprised the dealership didn't explain it to you, but now you know

 

So the 75-90 “axle oil” will work fine right? And yeah man I swear the guys at my dealership don’t know a damn thing he was confused as hell asking me if the axle oil will work smh. Buddy was confused about a crush washer for my trans. He goes “you mean the gasket? That’s what it’s labeled as”

 

Yeah he's probably just inexperienced, he'll learn with time and experience.

Yes the stuff labeled as axle oil will work fine, literally ANYTHING in those two viscosities are going to be gear oil, they don't make engine oil in those viscosities.

Engine oil stops at about 20W-50, anything that is numerically higher will be gear oil but they are typically 65+

This is only speaking of the AUTOMOTIVE industry, once you start getting into industrial or marine they stop using multi-viscosity oil (only has one number not two) and the highest I've seen is 650 that was used in a MASSIVE worm drive gearbox on a crane used to hoist Abrams tanks. You won't find non-auto gear oil in the car parts stores.

 

Lol word! I’ll try and get ahold of homie at the dealership and get that 75-90. The cd009 takes 12 qts I think I read online? Also I seemed to have lost a rubber grommet/bushing that goes to the inside of the catalytic converters brace. Couldn’t find any replacement or part number or even name of the thing. Another issue I’m having is my starter. Instead of just removing the starter as whole I guess I pulled the starter solenoid apart and lost both the screws that go to it. (Smh I’ve lost so many loose ends and had to order ****/run to stealer ship) so my starter is in two pieces and the part that inserts back into the starter has some blue type of prongs sticking out. Is there any special way I need to reassemble this? It doesn’t easily sit flush with the starter. I need to hold it in with a lot of force, and that’s not how I remember it coming apart.

 

It's not that much fluid in the transmission, when I do diff+tranny I usually buy 7 quarts and still have about 3/4 of a bottle leftover.

As for the starter, see if you have a local starter/alternator rebuild shop in town and take the pieces down to them for reassembly. I've never had the one on my G apart I just give it to the rebuild guys so I don't know exactly what it looks like on the inside.

The bushing on that cat brace, you could buy a few smaller rubber washers and stack them up to fit. Or go down to a local pick-n-pull and yank one off a donor vehicle since it's the same brace used on all G's.

 

I read online not to use GL5 fluid in the cd009 as it will cause damage to synchros. I bought the 75-90 and the bottle says it is gl5. Was the article right in not using this?

 

You sure it isn't dual rated GL4/GL5 ? Sorry I should have mentioned but yeah if it's only listed as GL5 then that would be the oil for your differential, GL4 goes in the manual transmission.

Most of your modern stuff is dual rated though.

 

Only thing I noticed was gl5 on the bottle. I put it in my transmission. But I got the entire swap done with new exhaust and I’m having a no crank no start. It’s acting weird asl, every time I turn the ignition on my blinker starts flashing, some interior lights and dome light flash as well, cluster doesn’t light up. Tomorrow I’m gonna try to jump the battery but I’m guessing it won’t help.

 

 

Update: I got the car running by charging the battery. Noticed some rattling when the clutch is out though, not sure if it’s just the z1 midweight flywheel making some chatter or if I f’d something up.. I’ll get a sound clip. Noise goes away when I press the clutch, but when I release it I can almost hear a clunk. Bite point on the clutch is pretty high also, not much room for the engagement, could have something to do with it being a sprung 6 puck? Or maybe need to adjust the clutch pedal, or bleed the slave more. Idk. I went with oem Nissan dot 4

 

6 puck is going to be pretty aggressive, the midweight flywheel isn't very noisy though. You sure you greased the input shaft and TO bearing with moly grease?

Honestly I wouldn't mess with the clutch pedal adjustment other than to make sure the clevis pin FLOATS perfectly in the bore of the pedal when the pedal is fully released.

 

A new clutch is going to feel like it's got zero take-up on the pedal before engagement, this will smooth out a bit over the break-in period.

 

I greased them up with all purpose grease by valvoline (I think). The noise isn’t super present but it’s there. If I get the car running tonight I will get the sound clip. What u think about that bottle of 75-90 that says gl5?

 

Here’s a vid of the chatter. I can also hear it while accelerating at low rpm.

 

That's just normal single mass clutch chatter.