vdc, can it be truely turned off
#16
05-13-2005, 09:32 AM
Great responses fellas. i really appreciate all the info, and i have found (through some backroad practice) i did need practice. driving all those muscle cars for all those years and then getting something as refined as a G coupe, reminded me that your never to old to learn... and Im a Teacher! Thanks again. I found that some decent launches are capable around 3k ro 3.5k rpms, with drama and around 2.5-2.8k rpm for more percise takeoffs. anyone else find a better launch rpm(vdc off)? let me know...
#17
05-13-2005, 08:19 PM
Originally Posted by DaveB
On my 03 auto, turning off the VDC doesn't really mean the traction control is entirely defeated though I am able to spin the tires quite a bit before the slip light comes on. Though even when the slip light does come on, it doesn't seem to kill the power near as much with the VDC on. On my car with VDC off, it seems like the slip light will appear if the rear tires really spin excessively right off line (wet road, water on the tires at the track, etc). In cold weather, I've been able to launch with the rears spinning mostly through first, the back end swaying side to side, and the slip light doesn't come on. I attribute this to the fact that the car actually got off the line decently and is accelerating quite well even though the rear tires are spinning. Personally, I like it that the TC isn't completely disengaged and that it comes on during excessive spin because it can save your differential.
If on a launch with the VDC off and you're TC is still coming on, I think you need to adjust your launch rpm and feather the clutch a little more. Just a little bit of wheelspin is all you want off the line, but you need to be coming off the line above 3000rpms. This requires a 3500-4000rpm launch with a little clutch slippage and throttle modulation. Do not drop the clutch, but don't feather the hell out of the clutch either. All dropping the clutch does is shock the drivetrain and light the tires up. On my auto, I barely chirp a tire on launch and that results in high 2.1 to low 2.2 60 foots which is considered decent for a RWD car that doesn't have a huge amount of torque.
If on a launch with the VDC off and you're TC is still coming on, I think you need to adjust your launch rpm and feather the clutch a little more. Just a little bit of wheelspin is all you want off the line, but you need to be coming off the line above 3000rpms. This requires a 3500-4000rpm launch with a little clutch slippage and throttle modulation. Do not drop the clutch, but don't feather the hell out of the clutch either. All dropping the clutch does is shock the drivetrain and light the tires up. On my auto, I barely chirp a tire on launch and that results in high 2.1 to low 2.2 60 foots which is considered decent for a RWD car that doesn't have a huge amount of torque.
Just as you say if a driver is good and knows the car a great launch is possible by modulating the clutch and throttle both so I don't need any artificial intervention unless I choose it to begin with let's say on a slippery surface.
You must be on some somewhat wet or slightly slippery road surfaces if you can get your auto to spin all the way through first gear. It's only possible in my M6 with feathering the clutch at launch of 3000+ rpm. Either that or you have an awfully potent G.
#18
05-14-2005, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by RBull
Personally I would rather have a switch that was a true on/off not a computer deciding how much wheelspin is enough when the switch is in off. I 'm not the least bit worried about my differential the few times I am ever going to really wind it out. It's more than up to that.
Just as you say if a driver is good and knows the car a great launch is possible by modulating the clutch and throttle both so I don't need any artificial intervention unless I choose it to begin with let's say on a slippery surface.
You must be on some somewhat wet or slightly slippery road surfaces if you can get your auto to spin all the way through first gear. It's only possible in my M6 with feathering the clutch at launch of 3000+ rpm. Either that or you have an awfully potent G.
Just as you say if a driver is good and knows the car a great launch is possible by modulating the clutch and throttle both so I don't need any artificial intervention unless I choose it to begin with let's say on a slippery surface.
You must be on some somewhat wet or slightly slippery road surfaces if you can get your auto to spin all the way through first gear. It's only possible in my M6 with feathering the clutch at launch of 3000+ rpm. Either that or you have an awfully potent G.
g4ian
#19
05-14-2005, 01:56 PM
Originally Posted by RBull
You must be on some somewhat wet or slightly slippery road surfaces if you can get your auto to spin all the way through first gear. It's only possible in my M6 with feathering the clutch at launch of 3000+ rpm. Either that or you have an awfully potent G.
#20
06-01-2005, 08:43 AM
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I found this post very useful, espcecially the back and forth between "edge" and "Bama G" in the later part of the post.
http://www.6mt.net/forum/viewtopic.p...976&highlight=
In short, once you press VDC OFF, the system is fully off, no matter what the car goes through, until you press either the brake pedal or the clutch pedal.
http://www.6mt.net/forum/viewtopic.p...976&highlight=
In short, once you press VDC OFF, the system is fully off, no matter what the car goes through, until you press either the brake pedal or the clutch pedal.
#21
06-07-2005, 10:03 AM
I had VDC activate even when it was off. I was at an evolution Auto-X school on brand new Hoosier AS04's. (Auto-x specific sticky sticky tires). As I was driving or either of the instructors on any hard exit the VDC light would come on and the power to the engine would be cut off. As a passenger I watch the VDC light come on and the power be cut. It was a good thing because it kept the "professional" auto-x guys from burning up my opposite tire. What was happening was rear wheel lift due to way to little front sway bar. I had some others spot for me an they witnessed the 4-6 inches of rear wheel lift at the same time I witnessed the VDC light indicator.
The fix was to adjust the front sway bar for more stiffness. Reattaching it was a start, the right had come detached when I made my last adjustment to the hotchkis. Going with a ton more stick in the front than the VDC was designed for caused the issue. Now I can power out of turns at full tilt with no problems, other than the drifting smoke.
The fix was to adjust the front sway bar for more stiffness. Reattaching it was a start, the right had come detached when I made my last adjustment to the hotchkis. Going with a ton more stick in the front than the VDC was designed for caused the issue. Now I can power out of turns at full tilt with no problems, other than the drifting smoke.
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