Once you get under there and look at it, its a price of cake and youll understand how it works.

 

Hi everyones My name is Dan, I just purchased a used 06 6mt g35 coupe, the fellow whoom i purchased my g off had the dealer do a engine swap with brand new clutch and tranny due to too much oil consumption at 80k, i purchased it at 135k and I'm a little worried about the clutch... the engagement point is very high, other g35s i have driven had good engagement points at either half way or (as i prefer) almost right off the floor...It bugs me a lot so i asked if the clutch was worn and needed to be replaced he said it is a 13pound aftermarket light weight flywheel and clutch that he got infiniti to install because it was a little less costly than the stock OEM 31 pound flywheel, now i have a feeling he might have ripped me off and sold me the car with a burn out clutch because it barely catches...but he showed me receipts and the car did have a brand new tranny and clutch installed at 80k so the clutch only has 55k on it... now i have 3questions i have read many threads about being able to adjust the engagement points on the g35 clutch by adjusting a rod or putting pennies or nickels somewhere how ever i do not like the sound of putting pennies and nickels anywhere near my transmission or clutch and iv read many threads where peoples clutches have messed up and gotten stuck...or what not...now back to my 3 questions, is this normal am i just not use to this lightweight performance flywheel with high engagement point or does it sound like buddy sold me a car with a burnt out clutch( keep in mind clutch only has 55k) or just didn't break it in right/ drove car hard burned clutch? or is this just how lightweight flywheel and clutches catch and are?, because a clutch should be good for 100k? and if not (meaning clutch is still good) how do i properly/ correctly adjust it/Clutch/ROD to make engagement point lower/ closer to floor. And if Clutch is no good/burnt out What is the BEST clutch/flywheel kit i should put in my stock 06 g35 coupe for lower/close as possible to floor engagement and tough clutch like feeling, that is able to shift at lower rpm without chattering. not this garbage light wheel flywheel that chatters at red lights and barely catches in 1st gear and sounds like a box of nails when u shift under 2k rpm in 1st 2nd and sometimes 3 rd ... BS. I am trying to fix my clutch ASAP any of your guys input or advice would help me significantly i am sorry for the multiple questions in one thread but if any of you could answer them all it would help me ALOT Thanks you so much for taking your time to read this!!! I'm sure theirs other g35 drivers out their having the same problem so hopefully i can help out some other people too! thanks!!

 

Hi everyones My name is Dan, I just purchased a used 06 6mt g35 coupe, the fellow whoom i purchased my g off had the dealer do a engine swap with brand new clutch and tranny due to too much oil consumption at 80k, i purchased it at 135k and I'm a little worried about the clutch... the engagement point is very high, other g35s i have driven had good engagement points at either half way or (as i prefer) almost right off the floor...It bugs me a lot so i asked if the clutch was worn and needed to be replaced he said it is a 13pound aftermarket light weight flywheel and clutch that he got infiniti to install because it was a little less costly than the stock OEM 31 pound flywheel, now i have a feeling he might have ripped me off and sold me the car with a burn out clutch because it barely catches...but he showed me receipts and the car did have a brand new tranny and clutch installed at 80k so the clutch only has 55k on it... now i have 3questions i have read many threads about being able to adjust the engagement points on the g35 clutch by adjusting a rod or putting pennies or nickels somewhere how ever i do not like the sound of putting pennies and nickels anywhere near my transmission or clutch and iv read many threads where peoples clutches have messed up and gotten stuck...or what not...now back to my 3 questions, is this normal am i just not use to this lightweight performance flywheel with high engagement point or does it sound like buddy sold me a car with a burnt out clutch( keep in mind clutch only has 55k) or just didn't break it in right/ drove car hard burned clutch? or is this just how lightweight flywheel and clutches catch and are?, because a clutch should be good for 100k? and if not (meaning clutch is still good) how do i properly/ correctly adjust it/Clutch/ROD to make engagement point lower/ closer to floor. And if Clutch is no good/burnt out What is the BEST clutch/flywheel kit i should put in my stock 06 g35 coupe for lower/close as possible to floor engagement and tough clutch like feeling, that is able to shift at lower rpm without chattering. not this garbage light wheel flywheel that chatters at red lights and barely catches in 1st gear and sounds like a box of nails when u shift under 2k rpm in 1st 2nd and sometimes 3 rd ... BS. I am trying to fix my clutch ASAP any of your guys input or advice would help me significantly i am sorry for the multiple questions in one thread but if any of you could answer them all it would help me ALOT Thanks you so much for taking your time to read this!!! I'm sure theirs other g35 drivers out their having the same problem so hopefully i can help out some other people too! thanks!!

 

just wanna tell u all this clutch pedal kit really works. i installed on my g35 and there is big huge difference. this kit is very affordable costs $159.99. it takes about 2hours to install. comes with very simple instalation step by step with pictures. u wont be dissapointed. i am very happy with this clutch kit from rjm performance.

 

Working the system. I like it.

 

Is there any truth to this?

 

Thought I would add my share for the record. I went the back stopper route and I see three advantages:

Ergonomics- Lest work your foot has to do, which will lower the fatigue rate of driving a manual.

Shift speed- With less pedal stroke, u spend less time stroking the pedal and ur ready to shift faster. Now the limiting factor of shifting is at the shift lever, in which a short throw can help.

Safety- You cant do much harm to the clutch by over adjusting.

You must park near a wall,wood fence or inside a garage and listen for the cancellation of the flywheel roaring. After you had added your stopping material, park under the above surroundings, roll the windows down, turn HVAC fan and radio both off and listen that the input shaft bearing stops roaring once u put the clutch to the floor. Engagement should not be affected. PLEASE check this, cause I cant be responsible for (if any) damage causing by creeping or partially dis-engagement of your clutch.

The clutch throw will always be narrow, so I doubt turning the screw method will widen the range that the clutch operates. Unless I'm wrong, I see no reason to do it that way besides poor stopper material falling off.

 

I'll throw in my two cents. Something that hasn't been discussed much yet is that you need to make sure the clutch returns all the way up after being depressed. I originally did the two full turns like most people here, and took it for a spin around the block. It felt great! However, I noticed that the clutch pedal didn't return all the way back up, I'd have to slip my foot under the pedal and give it a little upwards tap to get it to come all the way back out. I backed the rod back out a turn (1 turn total). The clutch pedal was then able to return all the way without issue. I tested out 1.25 turns, and this was about the tipping point where the pedal would sometimes stick and sometimes not. I left it at 1 turn.

 

Yesterday have made the adjustment on 1.25 turns. I had an issue with my clutch before this, after it got wormed up (30 mins driving) it begin to stick.
After clutch adjustment it starts to stick almost instantly.
Also switching gear up is ok, but going down, from 2-3rd to 1st, for instance - is impossible, while pushing the clutch pedal and switching the gear down i hear squeezing noise and cant switch to 1st until slow down to 10mph.
Seems that clutch is not fully disengaged, right ?

 

For the 100th time, back space the pedal stop

 

it will increase the length of the way which pedal need to pass.
will try 1 full turn mode first.

 

This has been discussed to death.
The clutch adjustment screw is for fine adjustment only.
The correct way to do this is to add (2) stop pucks, one between the pedal and the floor and one to contact the clutch interlock switch. Both should be 1/2" thick.

 

Stack some of those adhesive furniture/cabinet cushions from target or something.

 

You don't want these things falling off on a hot day, or worse yet, while you're driving.
Do it right or don't do it at all.

 

Its happened before. But I didnt die. Was just annoying and weird as hell until i got home.