koyo 36mm

 

Dang Chris, glad to hear you are ok, hopefully you get all the air out soon and don't experience any more burps!

 

I can't believe you guys are having so many problems with servicing the coolant. I must've done it over 100 times now and I never have any issues (knock on wood).

I think the trick is to pour the coolant in very slowly to let air escape, and keep pouring until the coolant spills out the air relief valve. The a few heating and cooling cycles, and you're set (per fsm)

 

the most common problem I've run into is the o-rings leaking on the drain plugs. Make sure to soak the new o-rings in coolant before installing them

 

so many problems?

no real problems, just a pesky air pocket. the lisle funnel did the trick for me though...much easier than the method described in the FSM. the air relief valve is pretty much irrelevant with the lisle. attach funnel, rev engine (constant, not abrupt) with heater on, wait for t-stat to open up, hit the ac, & watch the air bubble out of the funnel. its a really simple procedure, especially when you have someone to give you pointers (ahem, rookie )

 

Thank you for the write-up! I used the bleeding screw and now I have heat when idling!

 

This was a great write up, and informative posts from other users too.

First I topped up to coolant resevoir. I then let the car heat up to normal operating temperatures.

I used the bleeding screw behind the engine, and was able to get some air out of the system and get heat when idling.

I also had to do a second step, as I started to get some more heat then before the 'burp' but it was not enough and did not seem correct.

The other step I did after opening up the bleeding screw and letting the coolant 'burp, was take the rad cap off, let the temp raise to normal operating temperatures and leave the car to idle for about 20 min. I then slowly revved the car up to about 4500, and back down, doing this a few times - and the heat noticably increased and stayed hot at idle.

Its been 2 weeks since I have done this - and it has remained consistant!

 

Ok, the the problem is still there. No heat when idling, but fine whenever I am moving. The thick hose between the overflow tank and radiator cap is too hot to touch when the car is at normal temperature. Coolant is oozing out of the radiator cap and bleeding screw. How can I still have air bubbles? I followed all steps listed in this thread. I guess I'll wait for the car to cool down to try again???

 

maybe your thermostat is not properly functioning?

http://www.g35parts.com/ProductDetai...de=21200-RSZ30

 

Not sure, my car has never overheated.

I was bleeding the line today and the cabin was getting warm. Two minutes into a drive the heat stopped so I pulled over to bleed and no air or fluid came out.

 

Same thing again, pretty hot in my driveway and one minute into a drive I need to keep on the gas to keep the heat going.

 

Coolant will spill when I remove the thermostat, right? I am curious to see if it is functioning correctly.

 

With the heat blowing at 90* and the engine fully warm, the hose on the top, right side of the radiator is very hot. The hose on the lower, left side of the radiator connecting to the thermostat is cold (well the heat coming from the engine is keeping it somewhat warm). But NO WHERE near as HOT as the upper hose.

 

how long has the car been running when you touch the lower hose? it takes a little while for the tstat to open up allowing fluid to flow through that hose from the radiator.

 

10 minutes? Car has never overheated or shown any signs of doing so.