Since I didn't see any real details on how to change these without removing anything I created a log in just to post my experiences with this issue. You can in fact change both of these cam sensors without removing anything but the engine cover. The one on the passenger side is able to be changed by standing and bending over the car from the passenger side. The one on the drivers side is a little more difficult but also possible to change without removing anything. I had to crawl up on the engine block and bury both my arms between the engine and the frame and dig around to find the right bolt,you can then get a wrench (10mm) on it and take it off. Make sure to use your needle nose pliers to remove the harness. Like others have said, on both of the sensors I highly suggest removing the bolt first and then the harness. This will save you a ton of trouble. I'm 5' 6" and 150lb so this may not be ideal for anyone who is of the larger nature but if you're able I highly suggest trying it without removing everything. The whole process took about an hour and my car is running great again! Thanks for the DIY.

 

Ok so my problem is that i would get 4 codes all the time and it always comes back to haunt me. Car would not go over 2300rpm when all lights are on. I unplugged the driver side cam sensor and car can reach higher rpm and drives fine.

2003 g35 coupe 6speed manual 93k miles with a 84k miles engine swapped. Motor was never opened up before as i can still see the oem gasket makers squished in place still.
SES light on
VDC light on
SLIP light on

Error code:
P0328(knock sensor high input)

P0011(variable valve timing over advance bank 1?)

P0021(variable valve timing over advance bank 2?)

P0345(camshaft position sensor "A" bank 2 circuit)

I replaced the knock sensor with a autozone one, still same codes and problem driving

I replaced the driver side cam sensor with a nissan one and problem still persists.

One thing i did find out weird, bought a oreilly cam sensor for driver side, car just cranks and not firing up. Returned it and got another one, same thing. So i went to autozone and bought one, still same results. Finally i got sick of it and went to nissan and bought one. Fires my car right up and runs. But problem jerking and not going over 2300 rpm still there.


i can unplug the driver side cam sensor and the car would actually run normally but with all the warning lights on. Just takes 3-4 seconds to start up, car never shut offed on me either, runs with the cam sensor not plugged in and still runs after plugged in with all warning lights on. Last thing i want to hear is timing jumped. And the engine sounds quiet and normal. Dont hear any chain slapping or tensioner ticking

If anyone can help i would really appreciate it.

Message me or post on here thanks

 

Three years later, the other sensor finally died - got code P0345, same symptoms as the last time: hard to start, running rough, limited RPMs. I picked up the part from my local Nissan because I was in a pinch to get the car running -- prices have gone up since 2011! I talked them down from MSRP $135 to $115, even though it can be had online for around $85. Last time I got the part for the passenger side for $65 out the door from Nissan...

Anyway, wanted to give a shout-out to this more frequently updated thread that has some helpful tips:
DIY Cam Position Sensor Easy Version

I also wanted to state that I was able to get the driver-side sensor removed and new one installed without removing any of the throttle intake tubing or throttle body. I had to fish my hands around the back of the passenger side of the motor, and I used a very small 1/4" socket wrench to get to it. It was a bit of a trick, but all was done in about 20-30 minutes.

Just to repeat it here since I had to search a bit elsewhere to find it, the error codes and corresponding part numbers and sides are as follows:
Unfortunately in the process of pulling my ECU trouble codes, I also found that I have a P0327 code - knock sensor circuit. So I'm going to have to address that at some point. But, it doesn't impact performance or throw a check-engine light, so it can wait...

 

how often do these need changing?

 

This is like asking how often you should change plugs. Because of how badly embarrassed I was when my car started acting funny like this while I was on date, I now keep both bank 1 and 2 aftermarket sensors in my trunk.

I would replace them at every 100k maximum.

 

You didn't put in OEM ones?

 

Not worth it. Auto zone sensors have lived in my car for 15k miles so far. I got one for free and the other was at a discount so...

 

Ricer

 

Racer.

 

Oh shiit, that's funny. While you were on a date? "No, no, I swear my car is awesome! Why are you walking to the bus stop now?"

 

a glimpse into said "date"

 

Drivin a mazda - mi-ata - its definitely not..a Honda.

MIATA LIIIIFE!

 

I mean it's pretty awkward to have any car troubles on a date just as much as it is on a long trip. Well shiiiii....

If I ride with someone with a check engine light on they usually get judged. So I know I got judged that time haha.

"Oh it's just the cam position sensor, easy fix"

 

I'm having a BBQ later and you're all invited.

 

lol on my old honda i blew out my clutch on a date. haha it was already slipping and went i went into third it i guess slipped back into first and i redlined BAD. the needle was off the gauge lol.
but its a honda so of course the motor was fine.