DIY: Pumpkin Swap

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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 04:01 PM
  #16  
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Excuse me Officer, but was your .02 about you and your FAST friend necessary? Bikinilust did what you could of done faster but didnt, so post up your quick install picks or...

Bikini, is this a noticeable gain or feeling? it doesnt seem like much of a jump.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 01:09 AM
  #17  
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Yes there is a noticable difference, from what all my customers tell me.
I really cant tell myself because i have a MT, thus already having the 3.5fd. And of course the owner of the car will know better than I if their car is quicker.
And considering i sell a minimum of 2 [3.5fd w/vLSD] pumpkins a week, all over the country, I'd say there is a general agreement that the AT benefits from the 3.5fd gears
 
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 08:35 AM
  #18  
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ok, thanks! how much are those mt pumpkins running
 
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 11:21 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by OH6 G35
Mike...again, another "great" J-O-B!!


Marcus/Darren...I hope you've been paying careful attention! lol
Haha, yeah Dave I'm studying up, ready to tackle this on Saturday! Can't wait to get mine installed.

Thanks again Mike for the 3.5fd w/vLSD pumpkin! Any luck on finding those 3.7 gears yet?
 
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 06:21 PM
  #20  
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NP
havent come acrossed any 3.7's yet.
But i definately have my people on the look for 'em
 
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 08:13 PM
  #21  
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How about an AT (3.3) for my FI 6mt? I am looking for lower gear ratio but don't want to lose the LSD.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 09:16 PM
  #22  
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If inquiring about Pumpkins, PM me.
This is a DIY, not a classifieds page.
I dont want to get in trouble with the forum police
 
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 09:17 AM
  #23  
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arent you a model poster, LOL. Gotcha
 
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 09:23 AM
  #24  
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I'm not interested in buying a pumpkin. Just advise on what would be a good path to take -- e.g. swap with an AT pumpkin or just re-gear my current one.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 03:27 PM
  #25  
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Alot of guys are buying the 3.3fd w/vLSD for the FI equipped cars.
I personally wouldnt have the 3.3fd gears swapped into your current pumpkin due to the cost involved with the gear swap, and because swapping the pumpkin is just as good [as long as you inspect the donor pumpkin thoroughly prior to purchase].
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 08:12 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by OH6 G35
Mike...again, another "great" J-O-B!!


Marcus/Darren...I hope you've been paying careful attention! lol
PM me about how you did that to your tails please lol, does it come in black? that looks sick! Thanks! dont mean to thread jack ;( great write up!!! I am going to use this on my 3.7
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 08:19 PM
  #27  
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Nice writeup, would love to do this mod. Now if I can just talk a local 6MT guy outta his punkin...
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 08:23 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by SwivelHips
Nice writeup, would love to do this mod. Now if I can just talk a local 6MT guy outta his punkin...
Or, just swap from a G35/G37 loaner.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 06:41 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bikinilust
Remove rear bolt


now lower jack by about 2", then push jack forward just enough for the rear stud to slide out. Now reach around top and you will see a rubber hose clamped onto the differential cover. Disconnect that hose [sorry forgot to take picture of this step]. Then you can completely lower the jack and remove the pumpkin.

Install is the Reverse.

TIP for Install: raise pumpkin in place with rear stud in its hole, then install bushing bolts and install till hand tight. Then hand tight the rear bolt. Then torque the bushing bolts. Then torque the rear bolt. Going little by little like this ensures a smooth install because alignment wont give you any hassle.
Awesome write up just got my today plan on doin the install this weekend! How long did it take you to do this?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 05:00 PM
  #30  
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Holy necrobump batman, but I just did this swap on my 07 sedan. Got the "KG" branded pumpkin from early (08?) G37 for under $200 on ebay (very low mileage). Sliding the ****er out was the biggest pita of the whole thing. The rear stud wouldn't clear the frame, so i had to muscle it out. When I was putting it back in, I slid the rear stud in first, then put a nut on it so it wouldn't slide out, then lowered the whole thing (with jack still supporting), so the nose cleared the driveshaft, then I was able to mate the two together very quickly. I guess trying this in reverse when taking it down would've saved me a lot of time and aggravation.This write-up made the disassembly part sound super easy lol Oh, don't forget to put the breather hose back on when lifting it into place. The line attaches to the subframe (a hole) on the driver's side via 90 deg. plastic elbow. You can feel around with your fingers for it. Mine slid out and It took me a second to realize where it connects to (FSM's picture is worthless lol).

Other than that, it's a pretty straightforward setup. Drop the exhaust and sway bar to make your life easier, it's only a couple of nuts and bolts. Use the parking brake to break the stub-axle nuts loose.

VLSD confirmed:


 
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