Red Line 10W40

 

elf 5w30

 

I can't believe someone is using 0w30, that's way to
thin! (unless you live in Alaska)
I use Mobil 1 10w30 Synthetic and K&N oil filters.
When I hit 10k I moved up from 5w30 to 10w30
but since your using the higher grade don't switch
back.....not a good idea!

 

try the amsoil 0w30 or the "german" castrol 0w30. good stuff from what i've read on bobistheoilguy.com

 

Where you live... I'd recommend 0W30 in the winter and 5W30 rest of the year. synthetic oils are better for the VQ35, but regular oil is also okay as long as you do an oil change at least every 2,00-2,500 miles. I change mine every 3,000-3,500 miles with synthetic oil.

 

Am I the only one that uses Royal Purple 5W 30?!?! Works great for me!!

 

Royal Purple here too. 5W-30. Did 10W-30 once last summer.

 

I have not tried Royal Purple but I've heard good things about it from those who have used it and that they do their oil changes less frequently - between 5,000-6,000 miles between oil changes. I guess the $8 per quart cost is actually cheaper if you're doing oil changes between 5K-6K intervals. I'm gonna make a switch to this brand.

 

You can actually go 5k without any problems at all with just about any oil. 3k interval is a marketing fluke. I came upon one website which tested some oils and Mobile 1 lasted 15k miles. But they were topping off the oil and said realistically the oil should like 10k miles w/o problems. So unless you track your car, 5k miles interval should be just fine.

 

but you want that oil carrying away all the gunk in your engine. it may look just as new at 3k but there's a lot of crap in there. we're talking microns here, not banana peels and empty soda cans so your eyes cant see them. it will take a long time for the oil to actually break down and then you'll have greater issues to deal with. Some places do oil changes for 15 bucks (regular oil of course) so that's no excuse to go longer on regular oil changes. even if you did synthetic for 30 bucks, that works out to 10 bucks a month if you're not driving all over the place. just give that nice car of yours the courtesy of clean oil every 3 months. it will thank you.

 

I will be doing factory intervals on mine, but the oil test involved sending the oil sample to the lab for analysis. There was nothing wrong with the oil(levels of various things, etc. Yup, I'm talking microns here.) for close to 10k miles, so I'm not gonna be worrying about going few miles over the interval. I'm not that dumb to judge the condition of oil by eye, you know Looks like you are one of those who bought into marketing scheme... designed to make more money for oil companies, oil change places, etc. hehe Trust me. At 3k miles, the oil is perfectly fine. You can read the oil life study here: http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html


Oh, and I have never seen a place that does synthetic oil for 50 bucks let alone regular oil change for 15 bucks... most likely for regular it's about 20 or so and synthetic costs about 50. They would make barely any money if they did synthetic oil change for 30 bucks... Maybe your area has some cheap shops.

 

the first number is cold viscosity weight and the second number is normal engine operating temperature weight. once the engine is warmed up, there is no difference between 5w30 and 0w30. i use 5w30 also, but i wouldn't hesitate to use a 0 weight oil. some engineers would say it is better because it flows better cold to lubricate much more quickly than 5 or 10 weight oils.

 

I agree. Though I did read somewhere that there is a certain disadvantage to an oil that has too much of a spread between the 1st number and the second. Not sure if that still applies to modern synthetics though.

Modern engines are designed for best performance at the factory recommended oil weights. It was old thinking that suggested using a heavier oil for better protection. My old Bimmer used 10w50 if I remember correctly. Lighter weight oils also yield better gas mileage which is reason enough to stick with 5w30 in the G!

 

same here.

 

Here is what I found about viscosity numbers:

Is there a disadvantage to using an oil that flows better when cold, i.e. 5W30 versus 10W30?


Sometimes, but usually not. The crux of the issue is this: the bigger the difference between the cold oil viscosity and the hot oil viscosity, the more the volume of viscosity modifiers and the less the volume of base stock. If you are good about following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval then stick with the 5W30 if that is the preferred oil for your vehicle, even if 10W30 is acceptable in warmer climates. Older cars may specify 10W30 only. This is because they need a little more viscosity when cold to keep a protective film on the cylinder walls. There have been instances where the larger amount of viscosity modifiers that are present in 5W30 have broken down due to excessive heat and have left carbon deposits on the valves, but this is extremely rare. The proper fix would be to reduce the excessive heat, but the workaround was to use an oil with less viscosity modifiers.