Does anyone know from test data or personal experience (like cutting one open) how the Mobil 1 oil filters compare with other premium oil filters?

Are they up to their advertising?

 

from what I've read in the past Mobil1 filters have better filtration then most other filters, the down side is that since it's more efficient at filtering the flow thru is not as good. K&N filters are just the opposite, they have excellent flow thru but do not filter as fine particles. If you change your oil frequently then the Mobil1 filters would problably be the best thing to use. But if you're going for extended changes then they might get cloged up and go into to by-pass mode, thus allowing non-filtered oil to pass.

 

The most important think to know is at what rpm, viscosity, and clogged factor does the bypass valve open.

Not good to be cruising along at 65-70 mph with filter in bypass not filtering oil.

The only way you can determine is with a VERY LARGE and accurate oil pressure gauge looking for the point which deviates from the graph [sudden tiny drop in pressure with increasing rpm as bypass opens].

This of course varies with temperature, viscosity, and dirt load on filter.

Don't confuse the DIFFERENTIAL BYPASS PRESSURE WITH THE OIL PRESSURE FROM PUMP.
http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/oilfiltertest.htm


"Under *ideal* conditions, the bypass valve will *never* open. Because, when it opens, the oil *by passes* the filter and goes on through to the motor, obviously unfiltered. It is a safety valve. However, in *real* operation, it opens often.


One example is when you start the motor when cold. The oil is thick and does not pass easily through the filtration medium, thus building up to a high pressure drop. So, the bypass valve opens to prevent oil-starvation of the motor. How long it stays open is dependent on how cold the oil is and how long it takes to get near operating temperature. When the pressure drop across the filtration medium drops below the bypass valve setting, then the bypass closes. Blipping the throttle while warming up is a good way to get the valve to open and send unfiltered oil to the motor. A steady warm-up rpm is probably a lot better.

Another example can occur when the motor is fully warmed. At idle, the oil pressure is about 15 to 20 psi, and the pressure drop across the filter is about 1 or 2 psi. You take off towards the redline, and quickly build oil pressure to the 70 to 80 psi range. During that full-throttle acceleration the pressure drop across the filter will exceed the bypass setting, and send unfiltered oil to the motor, until the pressure across the filter has time to equalize. During a drag race, shifting through the gears, the bypass will open several times.

A third example, which you should never experience with frequent oil and filter changes, is when a filter becomes clogged. A spin-on filter can commonly hold 10 to 20 grams of trash before it becomes fully clogged. The bypass valve opening is the only way to keep the motor from becoming oil-starved if the filter becomes clogged"

 

So what does all this mean?

I have always tried to use the very best oil filter available and to change it at prescribed intervals, or less. Is the Mobil 1 filter now the best available, or at least one of the best?

The problem in getting an answer to this question is that the information field is muddied by a whole bunch of people expressing their opinion about their favorite filter, often with no more basis for that opinion than a warm fuzzy feeling about the logo.

If a filter filters, it eventually gets full, or clogged as some might say. But that's what I want the filter to do. And I want it to pass sufficient oil throughout its designated life. i.e. change interval.

So, does anyone really know how the Mobil 1 filter compares with the other filters than claim to be high-end?

If this question cannot be answered about any specific filter, then what basis does anyone have in choosing one filter over another except brand reputation and price?

 

Personally, I think the K/N is overpriced for what it offers. It is definitely a good piece, but not worth the $12 or so they want for it. After reading this http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html and cutting one open myself, I use the PureOne PL14610 exclusively now. Luckily, it fits the G35 and my FJR1300, so I stock up when I see them on sale. Just got 6 of them at GI Joes for $4.79 ea. My oil analysis from the OEM filter showed .4 % insolubles after a 7888 mile oil use, and the next analysis using the PureOne showed .2% insolubles after a 10241 mile run. This was using M1 5W/30 Ext. Performance oil. So, half the junk in the oil after a 30% longer interval. Hard to argue with that especially for $5-6 ea.

 

The problem is everyone's rpm vs time vs temperature will be different over the 90 day/3750 mile change interval or what ever interval........Oil analysis is a good way to estimate what is possible unfortunately it studies what has already happened.

If in warranty be sure to follow 180 day/7500 max change interval to not give Nissan an excuse to resist warranty claims.