About a week ago, my trunk button didn’t work. It still opened by pressing the remote however, so I decided to wait before bringing it in for service (the trunk wiring had broken and been replaced twice before for the trunk not opening). When the trunk is open, wiggling the wire bundle and pressing the release can sometimes make the relay click open, so I think one of the wires was partially broken again. At that time, I also noticed that one of the back-up lights wasn’t lighting, so I took out the bulb to replace it. The filament looked intact, but as I was going to put it back in, I dropped the bulb, and it bounced into one of the nether-regions of my garage, so I wasn’t running a bulb in that socket.

I decided to change the bulb today.

I had the trunk open, and I was going to check for voltage in that socket since the original bulb looked good. I turned the ignition to 'On' and shifted the selector to 'R', to check. The socket showed no voltage, and the other light wasn’t lit either.

Shifting back into Park, I then tried to start the car, thinking that for some reason, the car should be running, but …. Nothing! The parking indicator in the dash was blank, the HVAC display was dark, the remainder of the lights were normal for non-start. No starter sound, and only what sounds like the fuel pump from the rear of the car.

I checked the fuses in the box (by the battery) and they were all okay.

Any ideas about what’s going on? I’m hoping I can figure this out before I have to have the car towed in tomorrow (Service isn’t open until Monday).

My OBD II Code reader says 'U1000' and 'U1001', so that seems to indicate a Network problem. Could some sort of short have done something to the ECU? I tried disconnecting the battery for a while, but it still hasn't helped.

TIA

 

Gord

I has a similar prob with it going dead twice. First time it was at the dealership for some non related service and it happened to them which they replaced a fuse. Second time I was out to lunch, came back to the car and I got nothing just like you are getting.

The dealership flatbedded it in, three days later it was a shorted wire as a result of the upgrade of the alarm which the dealership did when I bought the G.

Something is probably shorting out...... grrrrrr.

1 800 infiniti......... hello

Hope it's not an intermittent short those are a PIA for sure.

Good luk with getting it resolved.

 

That sucks. I agree with O NO it sounds like there is a short somewhere.

Good luck!

 

So the short cause the non-start? It didn't do any permanent damage to the ECU or anything did it? Just a simple fix of the short got things going again?

I'm wondering if the short is just in the wire bundle going into the trunk. Maybe if I move things around, it'll resolve itself?

 

its either a short or a bad ground....that u1000 code and u1001 code usually relate to a bad ground...which could explain your no start...cause maybe one for the interior grounds are broken or corroded...which explains no lights or anything cause the ECU dont have a ground or something along those lines....

 

I had the car towed in today. They haven't been able to look at it yet.

I took a look at the wire bundle going to the trunk-lid. What a mess! Most of the wires, because of flexion, have broken badly! I thought it was only the trunk opener wire, but it looks like any of the numerous wires may have shorted!

The last time they replaced the wires, they used some fairly stiff wires which were likely a mistake. They said that they didn't think it would cause any further problems, but of course, I expressed my reservations at the time.

I'm just hoping they own up to likely causing the problem with their last fix, and cover it under warranty without a fight.

No loaners available until after the first week of November, so luckily my In-laws are out of town, and I can use their I-30. I miss my G already!

 

Damn. That's harsh.

Best of luck with the dealership. It may be a good thing to remove the ground wires. They may try to use it as one of their lame excuses.

 

Don't let them give you **** about your custom work.

 

I don't think the GroundingGear® will be a problem (at least I hope not). As an Authorized Dealer, they sell it in Parts and do the installs (same tech that's probably working on my car ).

They weren't even able to look at it until Friday I believe. Lots of Nissan/Infiniti drop-offs this week. Bookings until second week of Nov. Not sure why all the dead cars this week.

Hopefully I'll get it back soon.

 

Just remember your warranty is with Nissan.
Dealers are no different from generic shops when it comes to modifying a vehicle. Sure they can stand behind their work for the mods but it doesn't mean that another dealer will accept their work nor does it mean that Nissan will accept the mods.

 

Got the car back today. Covered by warranty.

The wire bundle going to the trunk-lid was badly broken up as I suggested. It apparently shorted out the fuse to the TC when shifted into reverse which tripped the codes and non-start condition! Who'da thunk that opening your trunk and shifting into reverse would kill the whole car!

They again replaced the wires, but I'm concerned that in about a year, they'll break again! I'm thinking that this may be a poor design (the wire bundle running through the rubber tube, flexing at that angle) and is something that may affect many more cars over time. Mine's the first that killed the car.

Any one else have the wires break on them, causing the non-operating trunk release issue (my symptoms the first 2 times)?