How much BOOST Can you make!?!?
How much BOOST Can you make!?!?
Alright everyone, this topic may have been covered before, but I could not find it...perhaps I am using the wrong key words, but I am curious as to how much boost can the 06 MT motor take without comprimising the engine components thus requiring an engine build? Does anyone know if the rocker arms, rods, pistons, cylinder sleeves (if present) are cryo forged?
Everyone running FI, please post here:
1. How much boost you are running
2. At what mileage did u install FI
3. How many miles have you put on since FI
4. If the motor compenents are stock, and if so has anyone experienced problems, i.e. broken rods, cracked pistons, bent rocker arms, ect.
I just bought the car 3 days ago and I am researching for upgrades in the near future. I want to go FI, but on my old 94 Acura Intgera GSR, i have it SC'ed along with intake, exhaust mods, and FMU, and I threw a rod, however I threw the rod right after I went thru high water, and although I did not stall the car, the dealership found oil in the water, jk, so I am a little hesitant to go FI because it is possible that I was going to throw a rod anyway, and the flood just helped it along and this is also my daily driver, but I REALLY want to make it faster!!!
Any advice, information, guidance, or reassurance provided would be greatly appreciated. Plus I also know that with any mod there is a chance something could go wrong, but I want to minimize the risk.
Thanks in advance!!
Everyone running FI, please post here:
1. How much boost you are running
2. At what mileage did u install FI
3. How many miles have you put on since FI
4. If the motor compenents are stock, and if so has anyone experienced problems, i.e. broken rods, cracked pistons, bent rocker arms, ect.
I just bought the car 3 days ago and I am researching for upgrades in the near future. I want to go FI, but on my old 94 Acura Intgera GSR, i have it SC'ed along with intake, exhaust mods, and FMU, and I threw a rod, however I threw the rod right after I went thru high water, and although I did not stall the car, the dealership found oil in the water, jk, so I am a little hesitant to go FI because it is possible that I was going to throw a rod anyway, and the flood just helped it along and this is also my daily driver, but I REALLY want to make it faster!!!
Any advice, information, guidance, or reassurance provided would be greatly appreciated. Plus I also know that with any mod there is a chance something could go wrong, but I want to minimize the risk.
Thanks in advance!!
6 or 7 pounds is common. Call the guys at www.Corner3garage.com . When I was there last week, they had just finished a greddy TT install on a 350 so I'm sure they run into this question a lot.
psi varies per set up. I know the guys over at VRT have done a g35 tt that hit upwards of 28psi... but yes 6 - 7 is very common among supercharged g35s.. turbo G35s seem to vary greatly depending on how much stock internals are kept.
6-7 psi isn't bad for daily driving, but at that amount of boost, will it compromise the same (aka blowing the motor or throwing a rod)? What is the max people have seen and used without modifying the motor components?
I would recommend that you don't tune the car any more than 8psi on stock internals. Make sure you get a good tune, if you go greddy tt i recommend getting better engine management, such as HKS F Con or TurboXS UTEC and ditch the greddy emanage blue. Also a fuel pump and fuel return system is high recommended to make tuning the air fuel much more accurately and safely.
When you build the motor, engine management is crucial. Alot of guys are pushing 15 16 psi on the average built motor getting horsepower at 460whp+. Anything on stock internals isnt going to get you much more than 405rwhp with a safe tune.
When you build the motor, engine management is crucial. Alot of guys are pushing 15 16 psi on the average built motor getting horsepower at 460whp+. Anything on stock internals isnt going to get you much more than 405rwhp with a safe tune.
Originally Posted by sameernof
Alright everyone, this topic may have been covered before, but I could not find it...perhaps I am using the wrong key words, but I am curious as to how much boost can the 06 MT motor take without comprimising the engine components thus requiring an engine build? Does anyone know if the rocker arms, rods, pistons, cylinder sleeves (if present) are cryo forged?
Everyone running FI, please post here:
1. How much boost you are running
2. At what mileage did u install FI
3. How many miles have you put on since FI
4. If the motor compenents are stock, and if so has anyone experienced problems, i.e. broken rods, cracked pistons, bent rocker arms, ect.
I just bought the car 3 days ago and I am researching for upgrades in the near future. I want to go FI, but on my old 94 Acura Intgera GSR, i have it SC'ed along with intake, exhaust mods, and FMU, and I threw a rod, however I threw the rod right after I went thru high water, and although I did not stall the car, the dealership found oil in the water, jk, so I am a little hesitant to go FI because it is possible that I was going to throw a rod anyway, and the flood just helped it along and this is also my daily driver, but I REALLY want to make it faster!!!
Any advice, information, guidance, or reassurance provided would be greatly appreciated. Plus I also know that with any mod there is a chance something could go wrong, but I want to minimize the risk.
Thanks in advance!!
Everyone running FI, please post here:
1. How much boost you are running
2. At what mileage did u install FI
3. How many miles have you put on since FI
4. If the motor compenents are stock, and if so has anyone experienced problems, i.e. broken rods, cracked pistons, bent rocker arms, ect.
I just bought the car 3 days ago and I am researching for upgrades in the near future. I want to go FI, but on my old 94 Acura Intgera GSR, i have it SC'ed along with intake, exhaust mods, and FMU, and I threw a rod, however I threw the rod right after I went thru high water, and although I did not stall the car, the dealership found oil in the water, jk, so I am a little hesitant to go FI because it is possible that I was going to throw a rod anyway, and the flood just helped it along and this is also my daily driver, but I REALLY want to make it faster!!!
Any advice, information, guidance, or reassurance provided would be greatly appreciated. Plus I also know that with any mod there is a chance something could go wrong, but I want to minimize the risk.
Thanks in advance!!

1. 8.5 lbs
2. hmm.. 60k miles? last year august.
3. 7k. blew motor with a crazy *** ticking sound around february. got car back and now she racked up 8k more.
4. bent rod. not a catastrophic blow-out, but i caught it just in time.
the rods are pencil thin... it's advised to at least change the rods for 450 rwhp. however, now that many FI block vendors are coming out of the closet, a decent built block can be had as low as 2800 or so, which is a pretty damn good buy.
and just from personal experience... once you go FI, you can never go back.

GTM rods at left, my backscratcher rod at right.
as mentioned, how much boost you can run is based on the turbo size and setup. You could run 14psi on twin T25s and still be fine, but 10psi on a T4 would be too much.
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Originally Posted by Mark350GT
I would recommend that you don't tune the car any more than 8psi on stock internals. Make sure you get a good tune, if you go greddy tt i recommend getting better engine management, such as HKS F Con or TurboXS UTEC and ditch the greddy emanage blue. Also a fuel pump and fuel return system is high recommended to make tuning the air fuel much more accurately and safely.
When you build the motor, engine management is crucial. Alot of guys are pushing 15 16 psi on the average built motor getting horsepower at 460whp+. Anything on stock internals isnt going to get you much more than 405rwhp with a safe tune.
When you build the motor, engine management is crucial. Alot of guys are pushing 15 16 psi on the average built motor getting horsepower at 460whp+. Anything on stock internals isnt going to get you much more than 405rwhp with a safe tune.
You mention fuel pump and return rail, but I have read many place that stock pumps and rails are ok for 6-8 PSI boost, what is your take on this and how will fuel pump and return rail help?
Also the big question is, how much boost can be run on stock internals w/o blowing the engine? I realize nothing is 100%, but I looking for feedback from those who have done this and how many problems have people run into, while running 6-8 lbs of boost on stock internals, with a good tune.
I boost at a 7.5 max. I never go over that. I have stock internals and the Greddy TT kit w/e-manage. Add to that TP and Fujitsubo exhaust and IM to get 391 WHP. That is with a conservative tune. It could do more, but I don't want to run the risk of blowing the motor or anything of the sort. I have more than 20,000 miles on this set up. I do drive it hard too. Just keep the oil changes up and it's all good.
Originally Posted by HYBRID ITR43
I boost at a 7.5 max. I never go over that. I have stock internals and the Greddy TT kit w/e-manage. Add to that TP and Fujitsubo exhaust and IM to get 391 WHP. That is with a conservative tune. It could do more, but I don't want to run the risk of blowing the motor or anything of the sort. I have more than 20,000 miles on this set up. I do drive it hard too. Just keep the oil changes up and it's all good.
Greddy Twin Turbo $5,200.00
2x Trust cast-iron manifolds
2x Trustext. Type T wastegates,
Greddy E-manage computer
RC 440cc injectors
2x Greddy Airinx AY-SB
Greddy Front Mounted Intercooler kit w/ Dual Inlet, Single outlet endtanks $1,200.00
HKS SSQV Blow Off Valve $180.00
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump $175.00
Fujitsubo 3” Exhaust $1,225.00
Fujitsubo Y pipe $512.00
Custom Dual Test Pipes $150.00
Kinetix Polished intake manifold $750.00
Labor Costs: $2,000.00
2x Trust cast-iron manifolds
2x Trustext. Type T wastegates,
Greddy E-manage computer
RC 440cc injectors
2x Greddy Airinx AY-SB
Greddy Front Mounted Intercooler kit w/ Dual Inlet, Single outlet endtanks $1,200.00
HKS SSQV Blow Off Valve $180.00
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump $175.00
Fujitsubo 3” Exhaust $1,225.00
Fujitsubo Y pipe $512.00
Custom Dual Test Pipes $150.00
Kinetix Polished intake manifold $750.00
Labor Costs: $2,000.00
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