these are the numbers with only intake and custom exhaust (not dual)

This is the most recent one from yesterday with plenum, true dual catback and the intake

and this is the afr that i was talking about.

Trey the reason i do believe the afr is accurate because with the dyno that i did on october of 2006 i only had intake and had 13.0 afr under WOT on all rpms and dynoed the same as yesterday with high AFR and added breather mod. Church Automotive (They tune s2ks and G35s mostly) said with reflash u will gain atleast 15 hp throughout the rpm range.

GEE PASTA, can u elaborate? How would i checked the voltage and what kind of tools would i need.

 

I was going to ask if this was Church's in my first response. I wouldn't doubt the accuracy of those numbers.

And what were the conditions like? Hot? Cold? It's not uncommon to run leaner in the colder months.

And after looking at your a/f's, I don't think you have a problem. Sure, you're running leaner than before, but not dangerously so. You're only running maybe .5 to .75 leaner below 4500rpms.

How long was it between your last breather mod and the dyno? How many miles?

I guarantee that if you do an ecu reset, you'll run much richer. The problem with that is that it will eventually lean out to it's current curves.

 

Get a wideband and an EManage plus a tune and you will be as good as gold. If you want to tune the car your self get the Greddy E01 with the EManage or go the cheap route and just get a SAFC II. Also a A/F ratio above 12.5 is not really good. The ideal A/F ratio would be between 10.0 to 12.5.

 

That seems awfully rich for an n/a setup. That would seem more ideal for boost being involved, high boost closer to 10 and small psi set up for closer to 11.5. I have seen several n/a 3.5s stick around 13.0 for optimal power. I ran my old vq 3.0 between 13.5-14 with no detonation even during the southern heat of summer. I would think sticking to around 13 would be a good medium of additional power and a margin of safety for this motor IMO.

 

10-12.5 is more for boosted cars with all the extra heat.

I agree to get a emanage or something like that and a re-tune.

I have a brand new emanage from my TT kit. If you want it you can have it for $150 shipped.

 

You're thinking forced induced or nitrous cars. Ideal A/F goes from 15:1+ just before the powerband and gradually falling to around 13:1 when the rpms start getting within redline.

 

So if i get that, all i need is take it back to church and have them tune it?

 

Yes, this will allow you to have more fuel control. I'm not sure if the TT kit one comes with the timing control harness or not. I doubt you would need it given that the Jim Wolf TT kit still uses the stock injectors, you should have plenty of fuel available.

If you want it, let me know. I'm going to put it on ebay this weekend.

 

Ahh words spoken from someone who has never tested it himself.

 

So what you are suggesting is that the oem intake would make the car run leaner? Why not typically a large margin, most any car (several VQ30 & VQ35s) I have seen with the addition of an aftermarket intake (cone style in a sealed box or open element) creates a leaner condition than it was with the stock air box with all else unchanged.

 

It really depends. There's a difference between the Blue and the Ultimate; I believe the Blue is what comes with ttrank's kit, though you should check with him to be sure. Several years ago the emanage blue's had known problems with blowing coil packs; I don't know if that issue had ever been resolved. Also wiring the emanage ecus is a bitch; often an emanage ultimate+wiring fees will equal the cost of a utec by itself.

You still never answered my question about weather. What were the conditions for the latest dyno versus the previous plots? The only thing you changed between the dynos is the addition of the plenum, correct? I find it hard to believe that just adding a plenum would throw off your a/f's that much, when in my case the combination of both an intake and test pipes leaned me out less than the plenum did for you.

 

Um obviously you didn't read the topic. He is suggesting the JWT is making his car run lean.


The G35/350Z does not act the same as OTHER VQ30/35 models. So you can not compare a Maxima vs a G35.

 

I did read and I am comparing this to dyno info on the G35, 350Z and maxima. Lets throw the maxima out of the mix then. I have still seen aftermarket intakes under the criteria I mentioned show leaner condtions whether monitored by a wideband or tailpipe sniffer on dynojet (248), mobile dynos and even a mustang dyno. If they were my personal dynos then I would throw them up.

 

On what technical basis are you making this very general statement?

 

weather was in high 60s on both times. Plenum and the exhaust were change compared to the previous one. Don't test pipes usually make the car run richer?

Is utec universal or it has to be for the G35/350z?