I read this over at team-integra.net. This might be of interest to some you. Im not sure if these procedures can be applied to a Nissan engine, but is worth a look. Mike D over at T-I and any other honda board is a very reputable guy on Honda vehicles.

Here it is:

"Use 0-30, or 5-30, or 10-30 motor oil and a Honda filter. Do NOT use synthetic motor oil for break in.

Make sure the fluid levels are where they should be. Start it up and keep the engine at 2500 -3000 rpm for about 20 minutes. Make sure there are no leaks, or mechanical problems. The only idling will be for setting the timing.


Before doing the schedule, remember that running the engine at steady rpm (like cruising on the freeway) is not good for break-in.


METHOD 1: Endyn Way

0-200 miles ( 0-325 km ) : Try to keep the highest rpm under 3000 rpm. Every 15-20 miles, zing the engine to 4500 rpm in first and occasionally in second gear.

201-400 miles ( 326-650 km ): Try to keep the revs limited to 3500 rpm. Raise the "zing" rpm to 5500 with the same frequency as above.


401-600 miles ( 651-970 km ) : Go to 4000 rpm for driving limit. Raise the "zing" to 6000 - 6500 rpm and include 3rd gear pulls, same frequency.

600-800 miles ( 971-1290 km ): 4500 rpm driving limit. "Zing" it to 7000+ rpm and include partial 4th gear pulls.

800-1K miles ( 1291-1615 km ) : 5000 rpm limit with "zing" to 7500+ rpm with some pulls all the way through 4th and partial fifth gear pulls.


Now, don't misunderstand me on the zings. You don't HAVE to scream the engine religeously at the prescribed intervals. If you don't have the space to run the engine up in the selected gears, don't do it. Just know that you can, and IF the opportunity comes around lay into it. Don't over-do the procedure.

I recommend that the oil be changed at the 1K mile marker. If the plugs are looking good and if the compression's (and leak down numbers) good, switch to Mobil 1 for life. Use either 0-30, or 10-30.

After the oil change, you might want to reset the valves and from that point on, drive it the way you'd normally run it.


METHOD 2: 2000 NIRA Comp4 Class Champion, Stephen Sakai's Way



1: Let the motor idle for about 30 minutes then change the oil.


Then take it out and road test for short distances until you reach about 100 miles. Then change the oil again.

Once you reach about 100 miles it should be broken in by then. Change the oil at 250, 500 and 1000 and then normal from then on. If you are scared you can wait until 500 miles before you start beating on it.

2: With respect to breaking in new cams : As long as you lubricated the cams properly on installation, there is no real break-in procedure.


METHOD 3: Ken Wood's (from Temple of VTEC's FAQ Section) Way

1. Use regular oil, not synthetic, during break-in.

2. When you first start it up, let it COMPLETELY warm up, not just kinda warm, all the way warm.

3. While it's still hot, check and see if the head needs to be
retorqued.

4. Check the timing again, as well as the valve adjustment.

5. Very slowly and using the lowest rpms as possbile get to about
65mph. Put the car in 4th gear. The coast, in neutral, to about 30.

6. Go from 30 to 65, in 4th gear about 20 times. This allows the rings
to seat, so do it right, and do it 20 times.

7. Drive EASY for about 150 miles. Change the oil. Still just the
regular oil.

8. Drive easy for another 150 miles. Change the oil again. Still just
the regular oil.

(I realize that steps 7 and 8 say the same thing. Do it twice)

9. Drive it kinda easy (no trips to redline) for another 1500 miles.

10. Change the oil again. Now you can use the expensive synthetics if
you want to.

11. After that, the motor is pretty much broken in, so "go run the dang
thing to see how fast it is!!!!".



Of the 3 methods, Stephen's method of only going for 500 miles on break-in is pretty aggressive and I personally would opt for the other more conservative methods of going longer but that's me. I would personally change the non-synthetic oil more frequently than the way the Endyn method states."

(posted by Michael Delaney)

 

I couldn't find a HOnda filter for my g35c, so I just got a Fram.
=)

I wish I had these instructions when I first got my civic and integ. I just raced them the first day I had it.

BS G35C 6spd navi/aero/prem

 

I wouldn't want to *zing* a G35 to 7500+ rpms.. since it redlines around 6500. Plus, I've been hearing that you really shouldn't change the oil until the first scheduled point at 3,750 miles. I've just been following the manual's recommendation.. keep it under 4000, no full-throttle, no constant speeds. Basically, just drive it like a non-sport sedan and don't try to see what it'll do until the 1200 mile marker.

850 down, 350 to go....

2003.5 G35 Sedan Desert Platinum/Graphite Premium/Sport/Aero/Nav/Winter

 

your car is not truely broken in untill you hit 30k miles yes i do mean 30k. im ase certified and that is what they told us. the metal doesnt settle till it hits 30k so the 1500k break in is just to keep dealers safe in case something does happen when you beat on your car haha. kind of like a insurance for them from the manufatueres.

 

I was told by Infiniti of Pleasanton-Dean my service advisor- that you are not to use syntheics until 15,000 miles and follow the owners man. regarding the break in and oil change times. Once you go to the synth. oils the oil change intervals should change too. Mercedes and Porsche use Mobil 1 and they are not requesting oil changes for 15,000 miles. I kept my Mitsu in Mobil 1 and K&N filters and doubled the mileage on changes. Dealer said engine spec'd out great "like new"-this was after the 40k service was done. I then traded for my G.

03.5 Sedan/B. Silver/Premium/Winter/Aero
69 Chevelle BB/4.11's

 

I am with Alex on this one. Its the best way to keep people from breaking there cars the same day they get them and demanding some sort of big compensation or a new car.

But i am still taking it easy on mine untill i make my first oil change at 900. Then ill just let up more and more and more.

Marcel


6

 

are these legtimate recommandations? It looks like verybody can come up their own theory for engine break-in. For me, I'll just use common sense and follow the manual.
3,5 years down the road, if your engine's performance starts degrading, how do you know it's because you did not have a proper break-in? or poor maintaianence? or poor engine quality? At the end of the ownership of you car, you will never know if you'd had a proper break-in procedure anyway.

Silver/Graphite/Premium/Sports/Winter and love it

 

Frams are bad. Mobil1 is a good filter but hard to find in certain parts of Cali. K&N oil filters are great. Purolator, I think its the Super Gold+ is equal to the Mobil1 in testing. Frams did test very poorly for the reasons stated. The commercials can fool you. The heavy duty or extra guard did test better that the regulars though. I am trying to locate the website that has the test. It was done by an engineer out of his garage. He has no money behind him but he own. He lab tested every filter he could get his hands on. Then posted the results.

03.5 Sedan/B. Silver/Premium/Winter/Aero
69 Chevelle BB/4.11's