changed to royal purple
well after alot of research (and i get a fat discount) on royal purple oil i decided to change the dino oil out to synthetic. initially i didnt notice much but after about 50 miles of driving im starting to notice a difference, the car revs smoother accelerates smoother and just the over all driving experience is alot smoother. did it add hp? it sure feels like it. could just be because i changed the oil, or royal purple really does what it says. either way i like it and i will continue to use it. 04 w/40k miles used 5w30
I have been running royal purple for 20k miles now i think and i love it! Just rolled into 97K miles and switched from 5w-30 to 10w-30 and what a difference. Everything seems "sealed" now.
Royal Purple FTMFW!!!
-Sean
Royal Purple FTMFW!!!
-Sean
ENVautoDetailing.com
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From: San Diego/Redondo Beach

Originally Posted by zer0vdub
so it is OK to switch to full synth after 40k? I have 47k and I was told that I couldn't because it would mess up the seals in the motor..
-GP-
ENVautoDetailing.com
iTrader: (47)
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,257
Likes: 136
From: San Diego/Redondo Beach

Originally Posted by zer0vdub
or I am a tool for believing it.. So I am going to be ok switching?...
-GP-
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FWIW, this comes from an Amsoil site, but these findings explain the difference you feel.
http://www.performancemotoroil.com/R...rple_info.html
The higher volatility is probably due to a lower grade basestock boosted with the moly additive to appear to be a superior lubricant (for a while at least). Another option is the German Lubrimoly. http://www.liqui-moly.com/web/lmhome...es/index_flash
Some NAPA stores have it.
Moly Disulfide is a very good solid lubricant/friction modifier, but it is generally not recommended for long service as it can begin to precipitate as the additives intended to prevent that deplete. Its a short-term racing lube that likely adds a few HP by reducing internal friction, but just don't expect to keep it in for more than the 3000 mile mark. And think twice about using it with a very efficient filter that have absolute ratings in sub-10 micron range. It wont take long to blind the filter and cause it to go into bypass mode and make it totally ineffective. BTW, I have nothing to do with Amsoil and I don't even use it in my cars. I do use their excellent 10W/40 motorcycle oil year-round and it does the job.
http://www.performancemotoroil.com/R...rple_info.html
The higher volatility is probably due to a lower grade basestock boosted with the moly additive to appear to be a superior lubricant (for a while at least). Another option is the German Lubrimoly. http://www.liqui-moly.com/web/lmhome...es/index_flash
Some NAPA stores have it.
Moly Disulfide is a very good solid lubricant/friction modifier, but it is generally not recommended for long service as it can begin to precipitate as the additives intended to prevent that deplete. Its a short-term racing lube that likely adds a few HP by reducing internal friction, but just don't expect to keep it in for more than the 3000 mile mark. And think twice about using it with a very efficient filter that have absolute ratings in sub-10 micron range. It wont take long to blind the filter and cause it to go into bypass mode and make it totally ineffective. BTW, I have nothing to do with Amsoil and I don't even use it in my cars. I do use their excellent 10W/40 motorcycle oil year-round and it does the job.
Last edited by ballisticus; Jul 2, 2007 at 11:50 PM.
Anyone reading this? It's one of the best posts on oil I've read on this forum.
Originally Posted by ballisticus
FWIW, this comes from an Amsoil site, but these findings explain the difference you feel.
http://www.performancemotoroil.com/R...rple_info.html
The higher volatility is probably due to a lower grade basestock boosted with the moly additive to appear to be a superior lubricant (for a while at least). Another option is the German Lubrimoly. http://www.liqui-moly.com/web/lmhome...es/index_flash
Some NAPA stores have it.
Moly Disulfide is a very good solid lubricant/friction modifier, but it is generally not recommended for long service as it can begin to precipitate as the additives intended to prevent that deplete. Its a short-term racing lube that likely adds a few HP by reducing internal friction, but just don't expect to keep it in for more than the 3000 mile mark. And think twice about using it with a very efficient filter that have absolute ratings in sub-10 micron range. It wont take long to blind the filter and cause it to go into bypass mode and make it totally ineffective. BTW, I have nothing to do with Amsoil and I don't even use it in my cars. I do use their excellent 10W/40 motorcycle oil year-round and it does the job.
http://www.performancemotoroil.com/R...rple_info.html
The higher volatility is probably due to a lower grade basestock boosted with the moly additive to appear to be a superior lubricant (for a while at least). Another option is the German Lubrimoly. http://www.liqui-moly.com/web/lmhome...es/index_flash
Some NAPA stores have it.
Moly Disulfide is a very good solid lubricant/friction modifier, but it is generally not recommended for long service as it can begin to precipitate as the additives intended to prevent that deplete. Its a short-term racing lube that likely adds a few HP by reducing internal friction, but just don't expect to keep it in for more than the 3000 mile mark. And think twice about using it with a very efficient filter that have absolute ratings in sub-10 micron range. It wont take long to blind the filter and cause it to go into bypass mode and make it totally ineffective. BTW, I have nothing to do with Amsoil and I don't even use it in my cars. I do use their excellent 10W/40 motorcycle oil year-round and it does the job.
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