Couple oil questions...
CCT-we call down the rain
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,179
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From: Avondale, AZ
I really like the Royal Purple, but the price vs what is gained is not worth it. A lot of syns do just as good of job as Jeff's post infer. The weight of the oil really only comes in to play in cold weather or cold starting. With that even a blended syn would probably work really well most of the time. I am considering changing to a syn blend.
Even if used during racing, when done, you probably would change oil anyway, why spend out the butt for it.....
Even if used during racing, when done, you probably would change oil anyway, why spend out the butt for it.....
So you have had your oil analyzed correct? I mean if you are prepared to spend $50 on some racing oil, you should really invest $20 to REALLY see how each oil is holding up.
But if you want the best of the best for a street/strip application, Amsoil is your oil. The 0W-30 has tested very well and actually is designed to live in a street application. But I bet the Mobil 1 was holding up just fine (that is if you engine is working okay which I think it is based on your great 1/4 times)
But if you want the best of the best for a street/strip application, Amsoil is your oil. The 0W-30 has tested very well and actually is designed to live in a street application. But I bet the Mobil 1 was holding up just fine (that is if you engine is working okay which I think it is based on your great 1/4 times)
Originally Posted by Nismo G
Id prefer to have the best of the best rather than the "**** of the ****" if you will. My car is driven about 3000 miles every 3 weeks. in those 3 weeks the car is tracked 3 times and driven pretty hard in the mean time. Lots of highway miles and long distance runs (2 1/2 hours at a time about 6 times a week). I am just looking to switch oils because i feel that the royal purple is really not doing its job. I have used mobil 1, but from what i have read about them in the past couple months it is driving me in the wrong dirrection. I have heard great things about the motul racing and i know the autobacs super GT series use it as a sponsor oil, so it must be good oil.
I just want to know what would happen if i were to run 15w-50 vs 5w30 in my kind of driving conditions.
-Sean
I just want to know what would happen if i were to run 15w-50 vs 5w30 in my kind of driving conditions.
-Sean
CCT-we call down the rain
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,179
Likes: 0
From: Avondale, AZ
Originally Posted by Nismo G
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I just want to know what would happen if i were to run 15w-50 vs 5w30 in my kind of driving conditions.
-Sean
I just want to know what would happen if i were to run 15w-50 vs 5w30 in my kind of driving conditions.
-Sean
IMHO running a warm viscosity that is 50 vs a recommended 30 can't help performance IMHO. Just makes the engine work harder. If you need a 50 to stop any leaks or blowby, you have bigger problems than oil choice
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,244
Likes: 23
From: Austin, Texas
The weather here in florida is very rarely below 50 degrees. The car is in the garage all the time anways (87 degrees 
according to the thermometer). So start ups in the morning are very rarely going to be below 50 degrees unless it is left outside at a friends house or something. The temperatures wont be above 100 during summer either during start ups, but with those temperatures the engine is going to be extremely hot compared to winter.
The motul is only 7.65 a quart vs royal purple that is 6.99 i would like to try it and see if it is infact any better.
So i should probably just stick with a 5w-30 or a 0w-30 correct?
-Sean
according to the thermometer). So start ups in the morning are very rarely going to be below 50 degrees unless it is left outside at a friends house or something. The temperatures wont be above 100 during summer either during start ups, but with those temperatures the engine is going to be extremely hot compared to winter.The motul is only 7.65 a quart vs royal purple that is 6.99 i would like to try it and see if it is infact any better.
So i should probably just stick with a 5w-30 or a 0w-30 correct?
-Sean
With synthetics flowing so well at cold/hot, it really doesn't matter. But again both of your oils are racing oils. Just because it's for "racing" doesn't mean it's the best choice for your street driver. There are alot of different conditions that street engineered oils have to handle that racing oils do not.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,381
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From: NY
for track use, I would still pick M1 0w-40 than Amsoil based on the review/data that Will (Resolute) has gathered. Trust me if GTM trust M1 0w-40 for Turbo/SC engine then that means it is good.
Amsoil 0W-30- A new formulation has come out in 2007 that performs as good as, or even better than, the old one. An excellent oil in terms of protection and stability for oil change intervals up to 10k miles. It is now a thinner oil than before, so I don’t recommend it for the FI crowd or track days
Mobil1 0W-40- A thicker oil with really good to average wear results combine to make it a versatile oil for the daily driver and those who do track days as well. Will hold up well for extended oil change intervals and can be used in any climate.
Amsoil 0W-30- A new formulation has come out in 2007 that performs as good as, or even better than, the old one. An excellent oil in terms of protection and stability for oil change intervals up to 10k miles. It is now a thinner oil than before, so I don’t recommend it for the FI crowd or track days
Mobil1 0W-40- A thicker oil with really good to average wear results combine to make it a versatile oil for the daily driver and those who do track days as well. Will hold up well for extended oil change intervals and can be used in any climate.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,244
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From: Austin, Texas
Originally Posted by AthenG
for track use, I would still pick M1 0w-40 than Amsoil based on the review/data that Will (Resolute) has gathered. Trust me if GTM trust M1 0w-40 for Turbo/SC engine then that means it is good.
-Sean
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: NY
Like the other said, the xW- is only for cold start which very helpful when the weather is cold, this help the oil circulate better on cold start (only). Don't be scared of the 0W coz the worst it can happen is that you are not taking advantage of it just like for someone who live in Alaska. Once you got your Engine warm the you're good to go. For Older Engine I rather have heavier oil coz of the wear and tear so I'll stick with the 40's plus mobile1 0w-40 is more of a thin 40's
Edit:
The reason I'm just pushing for m1 0w-40 is that because it is one for mobile1's best performance in particular on our VQ engine (with real data). If you need more info, PM Resolute in my350z coz he's an oil guru.
Edit:
The reason I'm just pushing for m1 0w-40 is that because it is one for mobile1's best performance in particular on our VQ engine (with real data). If you need more info, PM Resolute in my350z coz he's an oil guru.
Last edited by FI'ed G; Sep 14, 2007 at 05:16 PM.
Athens is spot on
Dang go to the trouble of researching and he doesn't even have the courtesy of reading the thing!
Dang go to the trouble of researching and he doesn't even have the courtesy of reading the thing!
In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the "W" number the better the oils cold temperature/cold start performance.
The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100 degC. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.
The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100 degC. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,244
Likes: 23
From: Austin, Texas
Alright pretty sure i completely understand it, but before you guys take that seriously the viscosity rating (30,40, or 50) simply state that the oil must efficently operate at a given temperature..in this case 100 degC?
-Sean
-Sean
Originally Posted by Nismo G
haha, ever been to florida during the summer? Basically yes!
-Sean
-Sean
But to answer your question, yes those oils at their respective viscosities will efficently operate at summer Florida temps. BUT they won't all flow the same as they are of course diff viscosities.