Couple oil questions...
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,244
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From: Austin, Texas
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Look at your temp again. 
hahaha no 100C was what it says on the bottle of oil. Not where im running at
hahaha no 100C was what it says on the bottle of oil. Not where im running at
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
But to answer your question, yes those oils at their respective viscosities will efficently operate at summer Florida temps. BUT they won't all flow the same as they are of course diff viscosities.
-sean
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,244
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From: Austin, Texas
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,244
Likes: 23
From: Austin, Texas
All oils are intended for an application and in general are not interchangeable. You would not for example put an Automatic Transmission Oil or a Gear Oil in your engine! It is important to know what the oils intended purpose is.
Ignore the marketing blurb on the label it is in many cases meaningless and I will explain later what statements you should treat this with some scepticism
So, what does the above information mean and why is it important?
Ignore the marketing blurb on the label it is in many cases meaningless and I will explain later what statements you should treat this with some scepticism
So, what does the above information mean and why is it important?
Here is a little. Plus the link i gave actually puts it in words you understand and breaks it down vs the link you provided which is long as hell and doesn't tell you what certain things mean.
You link is fine for people who know what they are talking about i guess...
-Sean
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 786
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From: Sugar Land TX/Boca Raton FL/Carefree AZ
Nismo G
I use the Motul 15W50 300V Competition Oil. On the track....I stay close to redline....so I need this kind of protection. Its REALLY expensive, but what cost more...engine or oil? If you are not FI and you say you track and put alot of miles on your car......just change your oil every 2000 miles for regular oil and 3500 miles for REAL Synthetic....You live in Florida.....so anyone of the oils you listed will be ok.
If you are having compression issues....that's something else.
I have done the frying pan test on a bunch of so called high performance oils. Moble 1 held up somewhat, but from the way it reacted to the high heat....you can tell that it may not be 100% synthetic. To get the Motul to break down...I have to keep it at high temp for alot longer than the others.
You are over 100000 miles?....time to rebuild that motor and go FI...
I use the Motul 15W50 300V Competition Oil. On the track....I stay close to redline....so I need this kind of protection. Its REALLY expensive, but what cost more...engine or oil? If you are not FI and you say you track and put alot of miles on your car......just change your oil every 2000 miles for regular oil and 3500 miles for REAL Synthetic....You live in Florida.....so anyone of the oils you listed will be ok.
If you are having compression issues....that's something else.
I have done the frying pan test on a bunch of so called high performance oils. Moble 1 held up somewhat, but from the way it reacted to the high heat....you can tell that it may not be 100% synthetic. To get the Motul to break down...I have to keep it at high temp for alot longer than the others.
You are over 100000 miles?....time to rebuild that motor and go FI...
if the engine is stock, just run some mobile 1 syn..or something equal. dont need anything fancy with a stock motor. and plus high miles doesnt always mean there is BAD wear and tear, its natural for the motor to have it. buy some $5 syn oil. anything built or FI i would research oils and find the best for the setup. and isnt 5w-30 the "OEM" oil? just my .02. thanks!
Originally Posted by XKR
Nismo G
I use the Motul 15W50 300V Competition Oil. On the track....I stay close to redline....so I need this kind of protection. Its REALLY expensive, but what cost more...engine or oil? If you are not FI and you say you track and put alot of miles on your car......just change your oil every 2000 miles for regular oil and 3500 miles for REAL Synthetic....You live in Florida.....so anyone of the oils you listed will be ok.
If you are having compression issues....that's something else.
I have done the frying pan test on a bunch of so called high performance oils. Moble 1 held up somewhat, but from the way it reacted to the high heat....you can tell that it may not be 100% synthetic. To get the Motul to break down...I have to keep it at high temp for alot longer than the others.
You are over 100000 miles?....time to rebuild that motor and go FI...
I use the Motul 15W50 300V Competition Oil. On the track....I stay close to redline....so I need this kind of protection. Its REALLY expensive, but what cost more...engine or oil? If you are not FI and you say you track and put alot of miles on your car......just change your oil every 2000 miles for regular oil and 3500 miles for REAL Synthetic....You live in Florida.....so anyone of the oils you listed will be ok.
If you are having compression issues....that's something else.
I have done the frying pan test on a bunch of so called high performance oils. Moble 1 held up somewhat, but from the way it reacted to the high heat....you can tell that it may not be 100% synthetic. To get the Motul to break down...I have to keep it at high temp for alot longer than the others.
You are over 100000 miles?....time to rebuild that motor and go FI...
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: mass
On a n/a motor driving hard at the track i would stick whith the factory recmended 5/30 save your pennys and get a oil cooler thats what i would do.
Last edited by tommyg35; Sep 15, 2007 at 06:20 PM.
At redline, I'd think he would be much more worried about shear or film strength than the oil's temp ratings.
Turbo operating temps is where you want the best resistance to burn off.
Turbo operating temps is where you want the best resistance to burn off.
Originally Posted by redlude97
what type of testing are you doing to determine that the oil is "breaking down"?
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From: mass
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
At redline, I'd think he would be much more worried about shear or film strength than the oil's temp ratings.
Turbo operating temps is where you want the best resistance to burn off.
Turbo operating temps is where you want the best resistance to burn off.
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 786
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From: Sugar Land TX/Boca Raton FL/Carefree AZ
Originally Posted by tommyg35
Whats your point fully syn 5/30 whith a oil cooler is good for weekend racing oil will not break down to the number one killer heat.
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 786
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From: Sugar Land TX/Boca Raton FL/Carefree AZ
Originally Posted by redlude97
what type of testing are you doing to determine that the oil is "breaking down"?
About a year ago...there was a company at the race track giving a demonstration about what happens to oil at a certain temp. They would put the oil in a frying pan and heat it to around 200 degrees...then 300 and so on.
Motul came out the best and this was not even their company...
They were just showing us what we needed to use in a certain application.
Last edited by XKR; Sep 17, 2007 at 11:46 AM.
Why would he need a cooler in the 1st place?
Originally Posted by tommyg35
Whats your point fully syn 5/30 whith a oil cooler is good for weekend racing oil will not break down to the number one killer heat.