'' i took it there for them to do the idle relearn with the "special computer" they have..... well after 2 hrs of trying they couldnt get it to return to normal idle either...... they told me it was my TB acuator and it was $380 bucks... i laughed and left.... so now i guess im looking for a Used TB...''
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"special computer" thats hilarious im a tech at nissan our special computer is called consult 3 look it up. and you are best off getting a TB there is a special chemical coating on the butterfly valve in your TB and it is common to find issues like this after people try cleaning their TB but touch the butterfly valve if the idle air relearn didnt work you get a TB. At the dealership we avoid recomending TB services on Gs especially hr motor due to issues like this.

 

Patrick, thank you!

- Tom

 

Wanted to share my experience real quick...

I ran into the same thing with my 2007 G35S this past week. I tried to perform the relearn process at least 25 times with and without a clock. I eventually took it to Infiniti to have them give it a try. They ended up having to erase the ECM (I think that's what he called it, can't remember the acronym right now) and re-install the computer software for the car. He said the relearn took the first time after that. I asked why that was and he said if you don't clean your throttle bodies regularly, that behavior is expected. I have about 157k on my ride, and I don't think they were ever cleaned before. So with the computer learning to operate with that amount of carbon, it was too drastic to go back to a clean throttle body.

He also said most people don't clean them, and they don't clean them unless asked. So unless you're worried about every bit of performance, it may not be worth your trouble. Since mine are cleaned now, I'll likely clean every 15-30k, but I think it's fair to expect a trip to the dealership if you bought one used and cleaned them for the first time after 100k+.

 

04' G35 6speed (VQ35DE)

2 to 3 weeks ago I completed a throttle body and MAF clean and did the idle re-learn procedure (successfully). Yesterday while driving the CEL illuminated. I got the code scanned which is Error Code P0507 described as Idle Air Control System RPM Higher than Expected. The idle, in my opinion, is only about 25-50 RPM higher (Yes 25-50 not 200 -500, simply under 50 RPM). Which I don't find to be a problem since a lot of people are saying there idles are 150-300 RMP off, I guess i'm lucky? The system must read anything outside the range and throw the code.

I plan to do the same relearn procedure I did 2-3 weeks ago. Just wanted to share and see if anyone has a similar experience.

 

I wouldn't worry about doing another reset if your idle is that close. 650-700 RPMs is considered normal range and the ECU has the ability to "learn" from your driving habits. Some have reported that when they cleaned their TB/S the idle is around 100-1500 yet they drove for a while and the ECU eventually corrected itself and went back to the normal range. If someone buys a used G we usually recommend for them to do the "pedal dance" to reset the ECU. That will return the car's computer back to the baseline setting and it will adapt to your driving style after time. HTH

 

I know this issue has been beat to death on this forum, but I have a question about the throttle body. I did the self diagnostic and it only shows the 0507 code for the high idle. I'm able to clear the SES using the procedure that uses the 20 second accelerator hold, not the one that keeps getting linked on here with the 10 seconds on, 10 off, 10 on again. The light doesn't keep flashing during that period like it says it's supposed to. This is on an 06 AWD sedan.

But when I do the throttle body position calibration, I'm not hearing the throttle body move during the 10 second ignition off period. I think I'm hearing it when I turn it to ON, but not when I go back to off. The previous owner said he had the throttle body cleaned, but the way he was sounding it wasn't from a Nissan mechanic. Otherwise I'm sure they would have known to do the relearn procedure. So I'm thinking they could have manually worked the valve and messed it up. If I'm not hearing it cycle during that calibration, would it be safe to assume it's bad? And I tend to like to upgrade parts if available instead of replacing with stock parts, so would there be any reason other than cost to not install the CZP 75mm throttle body kit?

 

[QUOTE=crashnburn;2749036]Im thinking i should just do the idle air volume reset in the morn B4 i go to the panhandle Z/G meet... i figure do the reset and drive the 100 or so miles to P'cola and maybe it will relearn itself.... After i do the pedal reset for it, it stay at 800 rpms at idle but if i turn the car off it goes back to 1050-1400 when i start it up again.......so if it actually was my acuator, then why would the pedal idle air reset work til i turned the car off?[/QUOTEP0507 did you ever fix it

 

While cleaning my engine bay, I took my intake off and saw that my throttle body was dirty so I decided to clean it. I turned the car over and the idle was super high and shakey so I was worried and installed the 75mm throttle body I had laying around that I planned on installing when my new plenum came. I installed that and it was still idling high so I did the resets and then it still didn’t sound too great. I drove my car around a bit to break it in and it sounded fine and there were no lights on.

The next day came around and it was idling high again so I did the resets a couple more times and it sounded a little better although it was still idling around 1k rpms. Later in the day, I took the car out and the service engine light came on and would not turn off after the resets. Now the engine is idling high with the light on and won’t respond to any of the resets that I do.

 

"the resets" = throttle closed position, idle air recalibration, and ECM fuel trim?

If the SES light is on then scan it and see what the car is telling you is the problem.