Car shutting off at start up ???
#1
Car shutting off at start up ???
Ok Ive had the G for over a year now & never had any problems with it. It has boral headers and a injen cai with a greddy front bumper. I changed my bulbs last Monday and decided to clean the intake filter. As Im cleaning it I notice the element is completely gone in some places so I decide to go out and buy a new one. I check autozone and advance auto and I have 2 options 1) K&N 2) APC So the only K&N they had with a 3.5" opening was 9" long. So I put that filter on and it already came pre oiled. Drove the car for 4 days no problem. Friday I get home and had to go back out. I hit 80 and put it in neutral why ? I never had any problems doing it before but now the car shut off so I looked around and searched and alot of people have this problem with CAI but the only response has been to put a heat sheild. Why would I have to do this if I never had a problem before?? I also came up with the K&N maybe having to much oil so I clean it and buy some CRC MAF Cleaner and same issue. Switch the filters now Im using the old injen filter and no problems with it cutting off. But a day later I start the car and it dies right away. Tried it 2 times same thing , the third I had to give it a little gas for it to stay on and then it was fine. I never got a check engine light & I tried resetting the ecu already.
What can I do to fix this ? I need a new filter and I need to resolve that problem @ startup. Should I buy a injen filter , the right size K&N , or should I go with the new AEM Dry Flow ??? Is my MAF dead ?? My friend said he uses brake cleaner all the time when he cleans MAF's at his shop and never had a problem & said the CRC spary was garbage , he gave me some brake cleaner but I have my doubts about using it but like he said there both alcohol
What can I do to fix this ? I need a new filter and I need to resolve that problem @ startup. Should I buy a injen filter , the right size K&N , or should I go with the new AEM Dry Flow ??? Is my MAF dead ?? My friend said he uses brake cleaner all the time when he cleans MAF's at his shop and never had a problem & said the CRC spary was garbage , he gave me some brake cleaner but I have my doubts about using it but like he said there both alcohol
#2
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based on what you said i think it's the maf...but it wouldn't hurt to clean your throttle body...if you've never cleaned it you should, it probably has a lot of
carbon buildup...again, it's probably your maf being exposed to the k&n oil but it wouldn't hurt to clean your TB (don't disconnect your TB wire...just take off
your z-tube and spray the cleaner in there and wipe off...wait until it's dry...very simple...they have TB cleaner at pepboys)
carbon buildup...again, it's probably your maf being exposed to the k&n oil but it wouldn't hurt to clean your TB (don't disconnect your TB wire...just take off
your z-tube and spray the cleaner in there and wipe off...wait until it's dry...very simple...they have TB cleaner at pepboys)
#3
I had the same problem and cleaned the throttle body today, no more stalling after warm start-ups. Give it a try
I also posted a comment about this same situation on another older thread with a little more details.![Biggthumpup](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
ADDED: https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-coupe-v35-2003-07/170218-help-engine-dies-right-after-starup.html
I also posted a comment about this same situation on another older thread with a little more details.
![Biggthumpup](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
ADDED: https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-coupe-v35-2003-07/170218-help-engine-dies-right-after-starup.html
Last edited by Deezflip; 10-15-2007 at 09:31 PM.
#4
#6
#7
i really think it just needs cleaning, it sure did work for me. I can't emphasize it enough.
For those that had theirs replaced by the dealership, i'm pretty sure they were just lazy to clean it but hey, can't beat having a new one, right?
But those out of warranty, i suggested try cleaning it. It was one of the easiest things i've done. Luckily, my father had some carb/throttle body cleaner left over so basically it was a free for me. They're probably less than $5 for a quick fix. Oh and yeah, just don't spray it alone, scrub it with a brush or a rag.
I wish i took some pics for the DIY-ers, you'll just need some hex sockets(i forgot what size) for the bolts that holds the throttle body on to the plenum.
For those that had theirs replaced by the dealership, i'm pretty sure they were just lazy to clean it but hey, can't beat having a new one, right?
But those out of warranty, i suggested try cleaning it. It was one of the easiest things i've done. Luckily, my father had some carb/throttle body cleaner left over so basically it was a free for me. They're probably less than $5 for a quick fix. Oh and yeah, just don't spray it alone, scrub it with a brush or a rag.
I wish i took some pics for the DIY-ers, you'll just need some hex sockets(i forgot what size) for the bolts that holds the throttle body on to the plenum.
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be careful when taking off the TB...if you disconnect it you might have to take it the stealership to get it recalibrated...that happened to me once...in
my opinion the simplest problem free way of doing it is as i listed in my post above...if you want to be real thorough then just take off the TB, but you
run the risk of messing up the idle(happens to some but not everyone)
my opinion the simplest problem free way of doing it is as i listed in my post above...if you want to be real thorough then just take off the TB, but you
run the risk of messing up the idle(happens to some but not everyone)
#9
hey bull3t? What happens when you need it recalibrated? What symptoms/problems occur? Just for future reference.
I disconnected the harness on mine when i cleaned it. I was pushing the flap to the open position to get between, around, and all up in there(i was basically, um...."fingering/fisting" the hell out of it)
, i was scrubbin' away vigorously to get it squeeky clean.
I hope i didn't mess anything up. I didn't notice any problems though and everything ran so much better.
I disconnected the harness on mine when i cleaned it. I was pushing the flap to the open position to get between, around, and all up in there(i was basically, um...."fingering/fisting" the hell out of it)
![EEK!](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
I hope i didn't mess anything up. I didn't notice any problems though and everything ran so much better.
![Dunno](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
Last edited by Deezflip; 10-17-2007 at 01:41 PM.
#10
so do you recomend just disconnecting the neg battery terminal and unbolting the throttle body from the plenum but leave it plugged in and then cleaning it from the front and back ??? Stupid car is falling apart now Im having the stupid window problems on my driver side & Im out of warranty. I think Im just going to jack a window motor and maf from a loaner my next oil change lol
#11
i got it...check this out from motordyne
http://motordyneengineering.com/manual.pdf
apparently it looks like you can disconnect the throttle body BUT...when pushing the valve/flap open when cleaning it, can and might throw off the calibration(stated on page 5 of 9)
IF and that's if you need recalibrating, they have the steps to recalibrating on the last page. Looks like it's as simple as the pedal ECU reset procedure. Signs of need to calibrate are, rough idling and SES light comes on.
Motordyne is da sh**!
As rough but thoroughly I've cleaned mine, i mean, i practically pushed that valve/flap open about ten million times and it still running great, even better actually.
good luck dude
http://motordyneengineering.com/manual.pdf
apparently it looks like you can disconnect the throttle body BUT...when pushing the valve/flap open when cleaning it, can and might throw off the calibration(stated on page 5 of 9)
IF and that's if you need recalibrating, they have the steps to recalibrating on the last page. Looks like it's as simple as the pedal ECU reset procedure. Signs of need to calibrate are, rough idling and SES light comes on.
Motordyne is da sh**!
![Biggthumpup](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
As rough but thoroughly I've cleaned mine, i mean, i practically pushed that valve/flap open about ten million times and it still running great, even better actually.
good luck dude
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Originally Posted by Deezflip
hey bull3t? What happens when you need it recalibrated? What symptoms/problems occur? Just for future reference.
I disconnected the harness on mine when i cleaned it. I was pushing the flap to the open position to get between, around, and all up in there(i was basically, um...."fingering/fisting" the hell out of it)
, i was scrubbin' away vigorously to get it squeeky clean.
I hope i didn't mess anything up. I didn't notice any problems though and everything ran so much better.![Dunno](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
I disconnected the harness on mine when i cleaned it. I was pushing the flap to the open position to get between, around, and all up in there(i was basically, um...."fingering/fisting" the hell out of it)
![EEK!](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
I hope i didn't mess anything up. I didn't notice any problems though and everything ran so much better.
![Dunno](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
while it was still on the car and that cured my idle and engine dying problem...The next day I wanted to give it a more thorough cleaning so i took
it off and cleaned the **** out of it...moving the butterfly around and all that...After I did that is when my idle got ****** up...I did everything i could
think of...I did the battery reset, I did the motordyne relearn procedures (i'm a pro at this) but nothing worked, my car was idling at 1100rpm and check
engine light came on...so I took it in to infiniti and they fixed it in 1hr for free (under warranty at the time)...they said it just needed to be
recalibrated...you have no problems with your car so you're fine...but in the future i recommend you do it while the tb is still connected...just so you don't
have to take it in to the dealership like i had to...
Oh yea and i agree with you...my car ran soooo much better after i cleaned it...felt like new
Last edited by bull3t; 10-18-2007 at 12:18 AM.
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Originally Posted by Boostedef
so do you recomend just disconnecting the neg battery terminal and unbolting the throttle body from the plenum but leave it plugged in and then cleaning it from the front and back ??? Stupid car is falling apart now Im having the stupid window problems on my driver side & Im out of warranty. I think Im just going to jack a window motor and maf from a loaner my next oil change lol
startup...you could leave the wire on and take the TB off the plenum but you'll get the same results even if you leave the TB attached to the
plenum...you'll probably just have to clean it a little sooner than if you took it off the plenum and cleaned it...
As for your window problems let me find the window reset procedure for you...i think i have it saved on my computer...My window rolls up and then down like
every six months and i have to reset it...i'm out of warranty so i just do the window reset procedure every time it happens...
![](http://www.infinitihelp.com/Ownership/Bulletins/2004/Images/04033-1.gif)
Last edited by bull3t; 10-18-2007 at 12:12 AM.
#14
#15
Ok I beat the monster!!!! I cleaned out the throttle body , cleaned out the MAF & installed the new AEM Dry Flow intake. So far so good its not cutting off after 60mph or cutting off after its warm It actualy feels kinda peppier lol I also think I fixed my window motor I took it apart and shot air in every where and loads of crap came out. Im still going to have to replace it soon because the brushes / magnets are worn.Also gave it a oil change. Thanks everyone for your input next week Im changing the plugs so wish me luck !! Thanx to bull3t !!!