Hello All,

Got some UR replica pulleys from another member here, it has the alternator pulley, water pump pulley, and Crank Pulley. I did search but found no one having problems with leaking oil from the crank.. and yup I'm taking a risk posting about this since I know there is always a debate about these pulleys.. So before I begin, please no flaming or thread jacking....

Anyway installed all 3 pulleys on Saturday, drove it that night, noticed the throttle response was very good, engine felt so smooth and car diffinately felt stronger, but didnt floor it or anything that night. My mechanic made it to 35 foot lb specs. So drove it sunday then on Monday it was a very hot day around 93 degrees F, so decided to park in the garage and open the hood to air it out.

Then I noticed that oil was all over the place, especially the splash guard and on the belt as well. Let it sit for awhile an hour, and noticed a small little puddle of oil inside the crank pulley meaing in the center of it. Called up my mechanic he suspected probably the crank seal broke while installing cuz he said he kept on taking it out and putting it in making sure it fits properly.

So today he changed the crank seal, ran it in the air on the lift for 10 minutes no leaks. BUT! when I brought it home it was leaking again! oil on the splash guard and int he middle of the crank pulley again.

My mechanic thinks it might be the bolt, he is thinking maybe we need an aftermarket or different bolt for the crank, not sure but need some advice here. Worse comes the worse gonna install the stock pulleys back in.

So any advice would help I can answer questions to the best of my ability, also was using gates belts as well.

 

anyone??? been doing alot of searching on the net.. I'm pretty sure the crank pulley was installed correctly, was installed at an Infiniti dealership here.

 

you bought a replica which means no steel sleeve in the inner mount, sounds like you got it to spin loose and eating through your seal

 

Ok I see what your saying.

Well here is another thing, the instructions say to torque it to about 36 foot pounds max, and then rotate it 60 degrees???? the instructions look exactly like the UR instructions.

Anyway my mechanic just torqued it 35 foot pounds and didnt rotate it the additional 60 degrees, but used a degree wheel to do it?? <-- kinda confused on that part. He said if he did that it will be like 100+ foot pounds on the crank pulley and it might warp or bend the pulley.

anymore ideas?

 

thats not what caused it to spin out, your aluminum is soft so there is nothing reinforcing the crank pulley as it spins

 

Ahh ok I see. What about other users that have the UR replica's? how did they get theres to work? If worse comes the worse and my mechanic cant stop the leak he will just put on the stock crank pulley.

 

you will need a new seal, you can buy a steel sleeve if you want to keep your crank pulley

 

Can I get that at NAPA or any hardware store? so I should get a steel sleeve for the inner part???

 

yeah napa or autozone

 

ok thanks alot man will try it out tomorrow, taking my car in again

 

First things first, the seal needs to be replaced everytime you remove the pulley and the seal shouldn't simply slide out. It should be in there fairly tight. The crank bolt should be torqued to 35 ft/lbs and then rotated another XXdegrees. It basically works out to be something like 130-145 ft/lbs. If the seal fits the way I described, and it's new, and the mechanic is using the correct torque, then the problem lies in the pulley. The shape or depth of the pulley could be off. Also, if the pulley doesn't have a steel sleeve, then the aluminum can flex too much and not give adequate torque on the bolt or seat correctly on the seal and crank. There's nothing wrong with the crank bolt. There's either a problem with the seal, installer, or pulley design or a combo of all those factors. To have a puddle of oil within hours of driving is a major problem.

 

you lie you lie!!! you dont know nothing...hehe...but honestly take it back apart and put in a steel sleeve or put the stock one back in and change the seal...daveb is right

 

oh well sucks for me stupid NAPA doesnt even have that junk... sucks living on this small island!!! called Guam!!! we have auto shops here but they dont carry the little nitty gritty things that some or very few ppl need...

Who knows maybe NAPA does carry it but the guy i talked to doesnt know jack... well gonna bring it in today and try to get it torqued correctly...

 

ok here is an update. Took it to the dealer today. Meachanic lifted car in air, had his co worker keep it at 2,500rpm no oil leaks, then when his co worker reved it higher, oil started to squirt/spill out of the center of the cracnk pulley not from the seal.

So what my mechanic did was put RTV (hope spelling is right) on the back side of the pulley, I dont think he put that much. But he found the bolt threads to be wet with oil and was surprised to see oil leaking from the bolt.

Anway he put some RTV at the backside of the pulley and put it in, torqued it to 30 foot pounds, and did the additional 60 degrees. He got is very close to 60 degress since it was hard trying to keep the crank steady.

So far no leaks!! been driving it around all day and been checking often no sign of oil anywhere. will check again tomorrow.

 

Ok another small update. Since installation of the UR replica lightweight pulley with the "RTV" fix there has been no leaks!! yay!! no oil leaks whatsoever and engine is very smooth and revs are higher. Now I just need to take this car to the strip and see what I can do