Calling any Cali, FI'ed or any heavey modded car out there that want an octane booster that really work. here are some of the stuff I have found that actually work.

Found this if you want to do your own mix.
==================================
Editor's note: I would NOT suggest that a person use the following fuel mixtures without considering the detrimental effects on your engine, vital engine components (O2 sensor, etc), and other potential damage. That said, the information is interesting.
Original published in:

GS-Xtra
1213 Gornto Road
Valdosta, GA 31602
(912) 244-0577

Editor: Richard Lasetter, president Gran Sport Club of America (GSCA)

Formula #1 - Toluene
R+M/2.........114
Cost...........$2.50/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
10%...........94.2 Octane
20%...........96.4 Octane
30%...........98.6 Octane
Notes: Common ingredient in Octane Boosters in a can. 12-16 ounces will only raise octane 2-3 *points*, i.e. from 92 to 92.3. Often costs $3-5 for 12-16 ounces, when it can be purchased for less than $3/gal at chemical supply houses or paint stores.

Formula #2 - Xylene
R+M/2.........117
Cost...........$2.75/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
10%...........94.5 Octane
20%...........97.0 Octane
30%...........99.5 Octane
Notes: Similar to Toluene. 12-16 ounces will only raise octane 2-3 *points*, i.e. from 92 to 92.3. Usually mixed with Toluene and advertised as *race formula*.

Formula #3 - Methyl-tertiary-butyl-ether (MTBE)
R+M/2.........118
Cost...........$3.50/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
10%...........94.6 Octane
20%...........97.2 Octane
30%...........99.8 Octane
Notes: Oxygenate. Very common in octane booster products. Has lower BTU content than toluene or xylene, but oxygenate effect makes the gasoline burn better and produce more energy.

Formula #4 - Methanol or Ethanol
R+M/2.........101
Cost...........$0.60 - $1.75/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
10%...........94.3 Octane (Methanol)
10%...........94.7 Octane (Ethanol)
20%...........Not Recommended
Notes: Methanol is wood alcohol. Ethanol is grain alcohol and found in Gasohol in 10% ratios. Both alcohols are mildly corrosive and will eat gas tank linings, rubber and aluminum if used in excessive ratios. Main ingredient in "Gas Dryers", combine with water.

Formula #5 - Isopropyl Alcohol and Tertiary Butyl Alcohol
R+M/2.........101
Cost...........$0.60-$1.50/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
10%...........94.5 Octane
20%...........Not Recommended
30%...........Not Recommended

Notes: Similar to Methanol/Ethanol. Isopropyl Alcohol is simply rubbing alcohol.

Sample Mixture
To make your own octane booster, it is easiest to make up a large batch, and then bottle it up in "dosage-size" uses.
Below is the basic formula of one of the popular octane booster products. To make eight 16 ounce bottles (128 oz = 1 gal):

100 oz of toluene for octane boost
25 oz of mineral spirits (cleaning agent)
3 oz of transmission fluid (lubricating agent)
This product is advertised as "octane booster with cleaning agent *and* lubricating agent!". Diesel fuel or kerosene can be substituted for mineral spirits and light turbine oil can be substituted for transmission fluid. Color can be added with petroleum dyes.

 

if im not online tommorow, it's because i blew up

 

Here's is an Octane Booster Shootout done in Australia so don't be surprise if the top 2 are Aussie made

http://www.sportscarforums.com/f13/t...oice-3257.html

===========


Another Good Octane Booster that is not included on that shootout but been around the Corvette/STI/Stang world is Torco Octane Booster

Check this TORCO Unleaded Concentrate 104 Octane


http://www.jbsblownc5.net/html/torco.html


"Get TORCO for $85.00 a case of 6 cans. The unleaded concentrate when mixed with 91-93 octane super unleaded gas makes up to 104 octane race fuel.
Take a case with you and never worry again about not having high octane racing fuel on hand"

Independent test showed going from 91.8 to 96.5 with Torco.

Here's one thread

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=776542


This thing sound to good to be true but lots of Pepe swear about it and really reduced knocking when boost was turned up.

 

hahah, don't worry just make sure you don't exceed the formula. Toluene has a rating of 114 octane but has a different weight so don't go over 40% mix. Plus all of those octane booster in the market are just made from toluene. Even current premium gas contain at least 10% toluene already. Make sure go to a paint store or chemical place and check that you are not getting paint thiner coz that is not 100% toluene but mix of different chit.

Also don't buy hundreds of gallons of Toluene coz that is being monitored by the DEA. Xylene is more easier to get since DEA don't care about them and has higher octane rating.


If your car blow-up I'm not responsible

 

Just get a meth/water kit (i.e. Aquamist). It's much safer and has the same effect.

 

 

I was thinking of doing this but with water/meth you don't spray on low boost and if you do then you'll eat up more of the mix and that add up to more $$$. My friend has a water/meth kit and we raced for 10-50 mins and he was down to half a gallon already. Also if I go with a water/meth kit, I'm always afraid of something breaking (ie, hose, inj, or any leak) that most standard kit dont monitor. If there is a failure then you risk your self of running very lean and it might be to late if you are on heavy load.

The best way is really mix up some race gas so you are always protected even on light load especially on very hot days. But that is very expensive to have a 50/50 mix and inconvenient. Oh well, this is just another option but you are right, I'm leaning toward just adding a water/meth kit.

 

Hexxum001 is right. The torco stuff works, as do the others, but why don't you setup a $500 alch/water injection kit, put a 1, 2 or 5 gallon res.in the trunk, and make life easy? I had a kit from CoolingMist (great products in concepts, so-so in reality) w/ a 1gal resivoir that would last weeks, assuming I wasn't out there racing or at a track. Given we're not talking about the exact same thing, but the goal is the same: reduceing incidence of detonation/ pre-ignition, correct?

With the methanol/ water kit, you need to spend time finding the safe MINimum amount in spray, to keep things under control. You don't the spray at all, untill you're into "unsafe" boost ranges. All of the controllers I've seen can be set to start at a min. pressure, or volt reading, and ramp up from there. the CM unit I had was programmable like a laptop in that you could use multiple data inputs (e.g. TPS, vac/boost, etc.) to control how the unit responded. Another good point is that the alch/water spray is dependant on engine load, where fuel additives are static after you've added them. I.e. you don't need 104 octane fuel cruzing down to McD's.

 

Hey FI'ed,

Lots of alch kits have monitors for low/ no flow. Some have output signals you can use to control you boost control's stepper motor e.g. override the boost controller, making it stay at low/ no boost untill the signal ends - when the injection kit stops sending the low/ no flow signal.

 

Mod's point is really important!

Gas engines aren't made for alcohols! Plus, fuel injection systems aren't calibrated for it either. Given, this thread is about additives, in realtively low concentrations, but still. Adding alcohol to gas decreases the total energy per unit (weight) of the fuel. Even though the octane is increasing, the burn is leaner overall. There's not just one variable at work. If you add the alch after the fact (like in the alch/ water spray systems) the AFR can only get richer.