advancing your timing by 3 degrees
#17
Originally Posted by Q45tech
In theory the WOT mixture should have combusted [by geater than 66% mass] when the piston is just at or just before 16 degrees after top dead center........the point at which maximal downward thrust is placed on piston, rod crankshaft...................if this occurs too early you get knock and too late you slowly loose power.
All this depends on fuel, air and coolant temperature..........the drivability-knock index for fuel and the flame speed for fuel and air.
At best advancing 1 degrees increases power by 1% and raises octane requirement by 1.5 points per degree.
All this depends on fuel, air and coolant temperature..........the drivability-knock index for fuel and the flame speed for fuel and air.
At best advancing 1 degrees increases power by 1% and raises octane requirement by 1.5 points per degree.
I have my timing advaned 2 degree's and one day i just checked to see if i had any code's. I found that i had a knock code. I always run 93 octane and replaced the sensor with a new one. The car runs hard as H#ll.
#18
Originally Posted by Bimmer G
I have my timing advaned 2 degree's and one day i just checked to see if i had any code's. I found that i had a knock code. I always run 93 octane and replaced the sensor with a new one. The car runs hard as H#ll.
#19
#22
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I had the timing advanced 2* also. The car wouldn't take three... I assume this was because it depended on how the car had been driving previously and what map it was in at the time (granny vs sport?). I never noticed a difference. But I guess 3-5hp can't be felt unless you have a finely tuned butt dyno. I mean, the dealer should do it for free, so why the hell not?
#23
Originally Posted by HomieG35
I had the timing advanced 2* also. The car wouldn't take three... I assume this was because it depended on how the car had been driving previously and what map it was in at the time (granny vs sport?). I never noticed a difference. But I guess 3-5hp can't be felt unless you have a finely tuned butt dyno. I mean, the dealer should do it for free, so why the hell not?
I know someone in the OC area that does 2 degree timing for $20, assuming its the same as Titans.
#24
Originally Posted by dut
The ECU won't allow the 3 degree to be 'saved' - thats what I get off the Titan forums.
I know someone in the OC area that does 2 degree timing for $20, assuming its the same as Titans.
I know someone in the OC area that does 2 degree timing for $20, assuming its the same as Titans.
#26
Each degree of advance requires that REAL OCTANE be increased by 1.5 units per.
Unfortunate pump octane level is placed there by marketing deparment and the average of 2 test methods has little to do with reality or engine requirements as Research Octane is measured at 600 rpm and Motor Octane is measured at 900 rpm.............on a single cylinder 25 year old test engine.
http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare...6/octane1.html
Unfortunate pump octane level is placed there by marketing deparment and the average of 2 test methods has little to do with reality or engine requirements as Research Octane is measured at 600 rpm and Motor Octane is measured at 900 rpm.............on a single cylinder 25 year old test engine.
http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare...6/octane1.html
#27
Possible with the autenginuity? PM me with that info. Thanks
Originally Posted by sloppymax
it depends what its set to when someone advances it. if its 14btdc then it will save 3 degrees. if its at 15 then it will only allow 2 degrees to be advanced. there is a trick using the idle air relearn where it can be advanced further and it will save. if there is any that needs it in the charlotte area then i will do it for no charge.
#28
#29
Units of octane as listed at the pump? The 03 sedan is rated for 89. So if 2 deg advance is done, you are implying it now needs 92? Hell I put 92 in anyway. BUT others have had their ign timing maps WAY advanced thoughout the curve by way more than 2 deg depending on where in the ign table they are. Your theory would indicate that they would need to be running well into the 95 range. Which is not panning out to be required at all.
Originally Posted by Q45tech
Each degree of advance requires that REAL OCTANE be increased by 1.5 units per.
Unfortunate pump octane level is placed there by marketing deparment and the average of 2 test methods has little to do with reality or engine requirements as Research Octane is measured at 600 rpm and Motor Octane is measured at 900 rpm.............on a single cylinder 25 year old test engine.
http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare...6/octane1.html
Unfortunate pump octane level is placed there by marketing deparment and the average of 2 test methods has little to do with reality or engine requirements as Research Octane is measured at 600 rpm and Motor Octane is measured at 900 rpm.............on a single cylinder 25 year old test engine.
http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare...6/octane1.html
#30
Originally Posted by Q45tech
In theory the WOT mixture should have combusted [by geater than 66% mass] when the piston is just at or just before 16 degrees after top dead center........the point at which maximal downward thrust is placed on piston, rod crankshaft...................if this occurs too early you get knock and too late you slowly loose power.
All this depends on fuel, air and coolant temperature..........the drivability-knock index for fuel and the flame speed for fuel and air.
At best advancing 1 degrees increases power by 1% and raises octane requirement by 1.5 points per degree.
All this depends on fuel, air and coolant temperature..........the drivability-knock index for fuel and the flame speed for fuel and air.
At best advancing 1 degrees increases power by 1% and raises octane requirement by 1.5 points per degree.
EDIT: i didn't see your other post
Last edited by manbeer; 05-03-2008 at 07:41 PM.