Why so little talk about lightened pulleys?
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Why so little talk about lightened pulleys?
Pulleys were one of the best mods for my old honda accord. Why are they never mentioned here? Even without underdriving every pound shed on a crank pulley is good for something like 2 hp. Does anyone know where I can find a dyno or more information? These seem like a worthwhile mod for the G but I see very little talk about them.
Yeah, bro... i jus got my AMS light wieght pulleys installed. OMFG, what a difference and it's not like an intake or exauhst mod, there's no sound to make you think you gained more. it's all in the pedal. i HIGHLY recomend the AMS pulleys, they're more than 7lbs. lighter than stock but still OEM size. really brings the engine to life AND all for jus $250!!!
Originally Posted by wootwoot123
Pulleys were one of the best mods for my old honda accord. Why are they never mentioned here? Even without underdriving every pound shed on a crank pulley is good for something like 2 hp. Does anyone know where I can find a dyno or more information? These seem like a worthwhile mod for the G but I see very little talk about them.
I just bought a UR underdrive lightweight pulley, and can't wait to install it! There's a lot to be said for efficiency when you don't need the extra accessory power.
Another mod I'm about to do is a lightweight battery.
Another mod I'm about to do is a lightweight battery.
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You make the decision.
The Facts
1) The stock crank pulley is two piece unit with a sandwiched elastomer ring.
2) The elastomer ring serves as a damper for certain order crank vibrations that occur during various rpms under load.
3) The clutch assembly or torque converter serves as the damper on the other end of the crank.
4) The VQ series is very beefy with 4 bolt mains and a crank girdle which makes the entire motor, including the crank, very strong.
5) Removing the dampening capability pulley can cause vibrations across the crank. These vibrations can then impact the valve timing and ultimately power.
6) No one has yet so show proof on the strip that the VQ35 pulley works.
7) Do not trust engineering speak from the billet pulley manufacturers because they claim the OEM is not a damper. This is completely wrong.
8) No VQs have been destroyed by a UDP/lightened pulley assuming the pulley was manufactured correctly with a steel key.
9) The VQ is internally balanced just like any motor built after the 1980s. The concern is what the engine, specifically the crank, does when explosions hit the pistons. These explosions place tremendous forces on the pistons, rods, and then the crank. As the explosions increase, rpms increase. As the rpms increase, certain order vibrations occur across the crank. To quell these vibrations, engineers use dampened crank pulleys as well as the cluth/TC on the other end. The term "internally balanced" is a moot point. Be VERY cautious when a manufacturer or vendor tells you "oh, the engine is internally balanced, it doesn't need dampers on the crank". This is not true and completely questions their true automotive knowledge.
10) Underdriving a crank pulley will result is very minimal gains, if any. The biggest accessory drain on the engine is the water pump and that is driven by the timing chain. The AC is the second biggest source of drain and that pulley is free wheeling when the compressor isn't engaged. The alternator can cause significant drain, but the pulley is already very small.
The Facts
1) The stock crank pulley is two piece unit with a sandwiched elastomer ring.
2) The elastomer ring serves as a damper for certain order crank vibrations that occur during various rpms under load.
3) The clutch assembly or torque converter serves as the damper on the other end of the crank.
4) The VQ series is very beefy with 4 bolt mains and a crank girdle which makes the entire motor, including the crank, very strong.
5) Removing the dampening capability pulley can cause vibrations across the crank. These vibrations can then impact the valve timing and ultimately power.
6) No one has yet so show proof on the strip that the VQ35 pulley works.
7) Do not trust engineering speak from the billet pulley manufacturers because they claim the OEM is not a damper. This is completely wrong.
8) No VQs have been destroyed by a UDP/lightened pulley assuming the pulley was manufactured correctly with a steel key.
9) The VQ is internally balanced just like any motor built after the 1980s. The concern is what the engine, specifically the crank, does when explosions hit the pistons. These explosions place tremendous forces on the pistons, rods, and then the crank. As the explosions increase, rpms increase. As the rpms increase, certain order vibrations occur across the crank. To quell these vibrations, engineers use dampened crank pulleys as well as the cluth/TC on the other end. The term "internally balanced" is a moot point. Be VERY cautious when a manufacturer or vendor tells you "oh, the engine is internally balanced, it doesn't need dampers on the crank". This is not true and completely questions their true automotive knowledge.
10) Underdriving a crank pulley will result is very minimal gains, if any. The biggest accessory drain on the engine is the water pump and that is driven by the timing chain. The AC is the second biggest source of drain and that pulley is free wheeling when the compressor isn't engaged. The alternator can cause significant drain, but the pulley is already very small.
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Originally Posted by DaveB
You make the decision.
The Facts
1) The stock crank pulley is two piece unit with a sandwiched elastomer ring.
2) The elastomer ring serves as a damper for certain order crank vibrations that occur during various rpms under load.
3) The clutch assembly or torque converter serves as the damper on the other end of the crank.
4) The VQ series is very beefy with 4 bolt mains and a crank girdle which makes the entire motor, including the crank, very strong.
5) Removing the dampening capability pulley can cause vibrations across the crank. These vibrations can then impact the valve timing and ultimately power.
6) No one has yet so show proof on the strip that the VQ35 pulley works.
7) Do not trust engineering speak from the billet pulley manufacturers because they claim the OEM is not a damper. This is completely wrong.
8) No VQs have been destroyed by a UDP/lightened pulley assuming the pulley was manufactured correctly with a steel key.
9) The VQ is internally balanced just like any motor built after the 1980s. The concern is what the engine, specifically the crank, does when explosions hit the pistons. These explosions place tremendous forces on the pistons, rods, and then the crank. As the explosions increase, rpms increase. As the rpms increase, certain order vibrations occur across the crank. To quell these vibrations, engineers use dampened crank pulleys as well as the cluth/TC on the other end. The term "internally balanced" is a moot point. Be VERY cautious when a manufacturer or vendor tells you "oh, the engine is internally balanced, it doesn't need dampers on the crank". This is not true and completely questions their true automotive knowledge.
10) Underdriving a crank pulley will result is very minimal gains, if any. The biggest accessory drain on the engine is the water pump and that is driven by the timing chain. The AC is the second biggest source of drain and that pulley is free wheeling when the compressor isn't engaged. The alternator can cause significant drain, but the pulley is already very small.
The Facts
1) The stock crank pulley is two piece unit with a sandwiched elastomer ring.
2) The elastomer ring serves as a damper for certain order crank vibrations that occur during various rpms under load.
3) The clutch assembly or torque converter serves as the damper on the other end of the crank.
4) The VQ series is very beefy with 4 bolt mains and a crank girdle which makes the entire motor, including the crank, very strong.
5) Removing the dampening capability pulley can cause vibrations across the crank. These vibrations can then impact the valve timing and ultimately power.
6) No one has yet so show proof on the strip that the VQ35 pulley works.
7) Do not trust engineering speak from the billet pulley manufacturers because they claim the OEM is not a damper. This is completely wrong.
8) No VQs have been destroyed by a UDP/lightened pulley assuming the pulley was manufactured correctly with a steel key.
9) The VQ is internally balanced just like any motor built after the 1980s. The concern is what the engine, specifically the crank, does when explosions hit the pistons. These explosions place tremendous forces on the pistons, rods, and then the crank. As the explosions increase, rpms increase. As the rpms increase, certain order vibrations occur across the crank. To quell these vibrations, engineers use dampened crank pulleys as well as the cluth/TC on the other end. The term "internally balanced" is a moot point. Be VERY cautious when a manufacturer or vendor tells you "oh, the engine is internally balanced, it doesn't need dampers on the crank". This is not true and completely questions their true automotive knowledge.
10) Underdriving a crank pulley will result is very minimal gains, if any. The biggest accessory drain on the engine is the water pump and that is driven by the timing chain. The AC is the second biggest source of drain and that pulley is free wheeling when the compressor isn't engaged. The alternator can cause significant drain, but the pulley is already very small.
hey, i've had the AMS light-weight pulleys(stock sizes) on my G for a few weeks now and i can tell you there's a difference in power... the car feels lighter and more eagar, similar to the v36 model's throttle. It's NOT like an intake or exaust where the sound make's it seem like more than it is, it's litterally all in the feel on the pedal. i am 100% satisfied w/my AMS pulleys AND do plan on getting my car dynoed after a few more bolt-on's.
Originally Posted by shabarivas
^^ need more pulley heads in here... contemplating pulleys myself
I personally run the UR lightweight but stock size pulleys. No problems with the crank seal, felt a lil better throttle response, slightly more accesory/belt noise than stock crank pulley.
If/when I go F/I, I will be replacing it with the stock or more likely a fluidampr/ATI unit.
Originally Posted by wootwoot123
Is it worthwhile getting all of the pulleys or will I get most of the benefit with just the crank and less belt noise?
Most feel swapping out the accessory pulleys are just for looks.
Same belt noise with just swapping out the crank pulley though. Also, glazing of the belts can/often occurs since the majority of the pulley is almunum and transfers some of its material to the belt, even if properly tightened.
If installed, it's always a good idea to check the belts and crank seal periodically for peace of mind imo.
Originally Posted by coreyen
Very bad experience with them...
I paid they told me in stock, i paid for overnight shipping, had my car taken apart paid for a dyno ahead of time (reserve the spot) and they never emailed me a tracking number NOTHING.. I did my own P.I. work and located their personal phone numbers called them at home and they were like
I was nice, just hey man Im the guy that ordered the pulley its now 3pm and No shipment...
Their response, oh we didnt get the order out on time can you wait till monday? Sure ok no problem..
I pay the mech to put it all back together.
Monday comes (since i already knew not to trust them anymore), I call they say yeah we already shipped it, im look GREAT can you get me the tracking number?... They go: We'd have you call you back we are really busy... Kool no problem...
Never got a call back (btw this is all overnight shipping) so the next day when i dont get anything and get the same BS story about we forgot to ship it, i cancelled the order right then and there...
