Science is the only legitimate basis for making a claim. RP is a fine oil for racing and it's arguably one of the best oils for that situation. Unfortunately it's been proven time and again an inferior oil to Amsoil, Redline, Mobil 1, Mobil 1 EP and the German Castrol Syntec. It's also the most costly.

 

any comments on this? Thus far I have only put Mobil 1 in my car...

http://www.performanceoiltechnology....lvs.Mobil1.htm

 

I myself have been using Amsoil since 1994. Their oils are definitely superior to both Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 EP. Will you ever notice the difference? Most likely not. You may experience a slight increase in fuel economy, but it will be slight. The Amsoil is a good bargain if you are able to purchase it at cost. I purchase mine from talkinghorse on maxima.org I can't remember his website address. He sells Amsoil at cost which brings the cost down significantly. If you are going to be doing extended drain intervals, Amsoil is the king. Do not however go 25k or 35k which is listed on the bottle. The most I've seen our VQ's go safely is 17-18k. Go to bobistheoilguy.com. You will find all the info you will ever want to know about any motor oil and you'll get some unbiased scientific advice.

 

The company I work for is shooting a series of videos for ExxonMobil about Mobil 1. So this week I had the opportunity to visit one of ExxonMobil's testing faculties.

We began in the engine dyno area where they put different engines though vigorous testing. Each engine will be put thought hours upon hour of testing to push the limits of Mobil 1.

Next was the engine disassembly area (this is what impressed me).

There was a Toyota Camry engine (don't know the year) that had over 200,000 miles on it that looked pretty damn clean. There was some slug build up on some of the intake valves (most likely due to gas) but overall I was impressed with how clean the engine was.

I'm not posting this info to promote Mobil 1, just sharing what I saw.

 

Exactly. This is why I made the statement that while there are better oils than Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 EP, the difference is quite small in the real world as not many people are going to keep their vehicles for this many miles.

 

If you would like to run synthetic oil, you can do so at your first oil change. There is no waiting period necessary.

Use your favorite high-quality filter. Napa Gold/Wix, Purolator PureOne, Mobil 1, Amsoil EaO, etc.

Using synthetic oil may or may not extend your service interval. You should not automatically assume that using synthetic oil will extend the service interval. Generally synthetic oils offer superior low and high temperature protection compared to conventional oils. Some synthetic oils are designed for longer service intervals and may live up to their claim. Keep in mind that synthetic oil is equally susceptible to contamination from fuel, condensation, blow-by and other contaminants which deteriorate oil. GM uses synthetic oil in the Corvette and other "track ready" platforms only for their superior high temperature performance (which allows them to avoid the expense of adding an oil cooler) but does not program the OLM for a longer service interval in comparison to other GM vehicles that do not use synthetic oil.

Getting all of your maintenance performed at one dealership increases your chances of obtaining goodwill assistance in the event that you need major repairs shortly after warranty expiration. In addition, dealers will replace the crush washer at every oil change whereas independent shops may not.

It depends on your area. Usually an oil change only includes the service itself and a check of the fluid levels and tire pressure.

Walmart, buy it in the 5 quart containers.

Bring your own.

 

Hi all..I used to change my own oil in my Maxima with Mobil 1 and getting my new G35, I just planned to use the dealer and have them do it..building good will..I bought the extended warranty so I just want to make sure I have them do it to prevent any 'issues'..yadda yadda..

It was a demo and sat in the showroom for 3 months judging by the oil change sticker..it currently has 5,200 miles on it but the oil change sticker from the dealer says May 4, 2008 at 8,300 miles.

Anyway..long story short..I'm getting it changed tomorrow..just for my own piece of mine. I had planned to go synthetic here..but the dealer is giving me lip about it..saying I still have to come in at 3750 (fine..I have no issue with that)..and that it's a waster of money. He wants to put regular in it..

fine whatever..I'll deal with that guy..it's my cash

But their synthetic is Castrol GTX..I've never used it..always Mobil 1 in the Maxima from 5k to 135k miles..any comments on it?

Thanks.

 

have been using Mobil 1 5W-30 since day one. also have used a variety of filters from OEM, K&N, Bosch and Denso. Does anyone have any issues with Fram oil filters? can get these for $4.00 @ Walmart along with the Mobil 1 for $22 in five quart jugs.

 

I can get Wix or Napa Gold in bulk for $1 more per filter. Fram is a poor value.

 

LOL! An oil change thread! Interesting.......

 

okay, I am not buying in bulk as I only drive car about 6K miles a year. do you have a recommendation for a good filter that is not too expensive. you have seen the ones I have used. trying to save some money, but not be cheap. guess Fram is cheap quality. thanks.

 

I use the K&N filter for the Q's and M's. Same fitment, twice the capacity of the pathetically small G filter. Seriously I have seen bigger oil filters on lawn tractors than that thing.

I think the part number is HP-1010

 

going back to the OEM larger size filter $6.00 thru Coz @ Concept Z Performance.

have been using Mobil 1 5W-30 since new with oil changes every 3K...do a lot of short trips and only go about 6K a year. looking to try another oil just to see if I notice any difference. 22K on car and does not appear to burn/consume any oil.

any suggestions for a better choice?

 

Purolator Pureone oil filter. Been using Mobil 1 since castrol don't make true german synthetic oil anymore.